Page 1 of 1

attaching trim to skin

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 2:00 pm
by bfitz
Hi All,

I was about to build my sandwich walls but stopped, feeling a bit unsure about how I was going to trim out the lower portion of the wall. This is my current idea:

Image

At first, I was going to run the wall and aluminum skin down to be flush with the bottom of the frame, but realized that affixing the trim could be an issue as there will be minimal screwing/riveting surface available. Does anyone forsee issues with running the sking to 1/2" or so below the frame and riveting as shown?

Opinions one way or the other are appreciated. Not being the most effective searcher on here, links to similar designs or alternatives are welcomed.

Thanks
Brian

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 6:02 pm
by Lawnjockey
I am not that far on my project yet but it is someting I have been thinking about. Mine is going to be used off road so I am not going to have the siding extend all the way down the frame tubes. This will protect them from damage. I am also concerned about delamination and I am considering various protective measures in that area ranging from givinig the first 3" of plywood a couple of good coats of epoxy, particularly the edge to actually joining on a 2" strip of rot resistent wood like red wood or teak. Teak would be best but it is hard on the pocket book too.

Jocko

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:58 pm
by bbarry
I don't see any problems with what you've drawn out if I understand it correctly. If it were me, I'd make certain you have all the wood in the area encapsulated in epoxy. Although it won't see a ton of water, nothing will start to rot faster than a joint that's not sealed properly.

Brad

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:07 pm
by madjack
bbarry wrote:I don't see any problems with what you've drawn out if I understand it correctly. If it were me, I'd make certain you have all the wood in the area encapsulated in epoxy. Although it won't see a ton of water, nothing will start to rot faster than a joint that's not sealed properly.

Brad


+1 on this...ESPECIALLY the epoxy encapsulation(3coats and as much as the edges will take)...this includes some sort sealant on the inside of the hole the rivet goes thru.....
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:39 pm
by bfitz
I'm considering some glass tape/epoxy on the lower edges. It'll wrap around the wood about an inch up or so, inside and out.

How far up the plywood do you recommend epoxying? (on the inside, to counteract any wicking)

Thanks
Brian

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:51 pm
by Juneaudave
...it's tricky to wrap glass around the sharp edges of ply because the glass doesn't wrap well and wants to lift off. It might be just as effective to fill any voids in the edges with thickened epoxy and paint on several coats of epoxy to build up the waterproof barrier.
:thinking: :thinking: :thinking:

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:43 am
by Ageless
The only untreated wood in camp?



Fire wood

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:51 am
by doug hodder
bfitz wrote:I'm considering some glass tape/epoxy on the lower edges. It'll wrap around the wood about an inch up or so, inside and out.


Like Dave mentioned, you probably won't get glass tape to do those hard 90's unless you tacked and stretched it over the ply edge. For me...I just do the resin only, the tape will give you abrasion protection, but it's the resin that's doing the sealing. Just my opinion. doug

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 6:49 pm
by bfitz
Anyone have advice on sizes of rivets to use and a good source? I presume aluminum is recommended?

Thanks,
Brian

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:46 pm
by madjack
Brian, I second what Dave & Doug said about the FG tape...I would "paint" the epoxy all the way upto and even beyond the floor...I get all fasteners, screws, rivets, ect from FASTENAL...check there website and you'll probably find an outlet near you......I would use one in the 3/16" to 1/4" range, at whatever grip length is appropriate for your usage...I like the wide flat heads but the look may be different for what you want...look at rivets on FASTENALS website and choose what you want and then goto the store and get 'em..........
madjack 8)

p.s. something like these... http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... 030&ucst=t ...................MJ