Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm thinking of ordering a kreg mini pocket hole jig to attach the spars to the sides to as to hide the screws as i'm just hoping to paint mine
are they any good?
what size screws should I order with it?
(I'm using 3/4 ply for the sides and pine spars?
marcel

type82e wrote:I'm thinking of ordering a kreg mini pocket hole jig to attach the spars to the sides to as to hide the screws as i'm just hoping to paint mine
are they any good?
what size screws should I order with it?
(I'm using 3/4 ply for the sides and pine spars?
marcel

I'm a big fan of pocket screws. I am using them extensively in my project. They're excellent for face frames, bulkhead frames, shelves and the like. That said, I'm not sure I'd want to use them to attach my roof spars. Pocket screws are not intended for structural loads. They'll only penetrate part way through your plywood sides. So, you won't have that many threads gripping your ply. Also, drilling the pocket holes themselves weakens the spars at the ends. This is exactly the area where they are subject to the most stress.

I know you don't want to do it. But, I think you'd be better off, structurally speaking, if you drove deck screws through the plywood side into the ends of your spars. I assume you want to hide the screws because you're building a woody. You could cover the screws with trim, or counter sink them and plug the holes.

Two more suggestions for joining the spars to the plywood sides if you don't want holes in the outside of the ply is to use: a) dowels and glue on the spar ends and ply sides or b) biscuits on the ends/sides. I don't know what thickness ply you are using for the sides but even at 3/4" you will only get 5/8" maximum depth drilled into the side. Therefore I would think dowels are better than biscuits. I agree with Tom - screws through the walls into the spars and then cover with wood trim. That's what I'm doing. Dave

I agree with Tom. The pocket hole guides are wonderful for cabinet joinery. There is a good page on thread type, head style, and lengh at http://www.kregtool.com/screws_product_page.asp The best product is determined by wood density and thickness of the material.

Nevertheless, I endorse Tom's suggestion about using deck screws.

Tom

I also didn't want screws from the outside. I havn't tested it on the road, but feel confident it will hold. From the inside I glued and stapled a 1 1/2" x 3" block of wood to the wall. I then used screws to attach the spars to the block of wood. Next I installed another block of wood against the spar. A block of wood on each side of the spar, along with staples, glue and screws. A little extra work, but no outside screws showing. Sorry I don't have pictures.

Rick

Now, now, now....all this talk about screws extrueding out of the plywood sides....no one has heard of a 4-1/4 in die grinder. I wouldn't do any work with out one. Any screw that prodrudes from the out side of the plywoood skin just gets lopped off. (or removed because all my joints are glued with gorilla glue). Then I fill it with putty, sand smooth, and, as I always do, prime it. (I don't believe in aluminum skin.)
Another thing I do is use the paint additive for exterior stuccoing. It allows me to fill in the low spots from the OSB board I am using. Then I sand it smooth with my DA, and paint with another coat of oil based primer, then 2 coats of Alkyd, fast dry enamel.

Just my penny's worth,
MtrngMan

Marcel

I put Benroy McFull together dry (no glue) and have now blown it apart to sand and finish. Pocket hole screws were adaquate for support even without glue, but ultimately are there just as a clamp untill the glue sets. The standard length screws aren't going to work for you, you'll need to calculate the right length and order from McFeely's or else where