Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Look guys we all know ladies prefer stiff wood and your doors are limp and warped. Thats just how unsupported plywood is. Well Jocko has a solution for you and it doesn't involve blue pills or outdoor bath tubs.

When you cut the door cut out take the scrap, soon to be door and do the following.

First rip 3/4 of an inch off one side, starting with the bottom side is best. Then tape right next to the cut.



Then rip a piece of one by oak to 3/4". Clamp the cut side to the door.



Drill a buch of 1/4" holes in the end about 6" apart.



Unclamp it and smear glue on the door edge (use 5 min epoxy for those times you can't wait, you know what I mean). Then reclamp while pushing dowls in to allign.



Hammer the dowls home clean off excess glue and have good side of door up.



Work your way around the door doing the top last. The reason for doing this in order is so you won't have end grain where water can stand on it.

Now wasn't that romantic. All the ladies will love your new stiff wood and you won't have to be embarassed anymore of make limp excuses.

Jocko

Now thats a nice Finnish. Interesting point too.

But doesn't having stiff wood all day in camp get embarrassing?

In this case, if your wood is stiff for more than four hours, it is a good thing.

CD

I think I need a Smoke

I don't know about the direction of this thread, but I would like a dozen of those clamps...

Here ya go... $4.95 each...

http://www.toolplanet.com/product/MIT-3 ... 5434303035

Mike...

Gotta appreciate good advice and chocolate

Nice and stiff with no bends in the middle - Just how a door is supposed to be - great idea!

Or you can rout out the back side and glue the splints along the edge leaving the front veneer intact. That way you won't see the splints from outside.....

John, good point. In my case it doesn't matter since the outside is going to be skinned with aluminum. However the inside is the good side of the wood and will remain exposed but I have a 3/4" door stop so the oak will not show when the door is closed.

For what you are suggesting a couple of extra passes through the table saw would work just as well as the router and probably be quicker.

A couple of other points, those clamps are ok but large bar or pipe clamps would work just as well or better. The 3 way clamps can pull when you tighten the last screw.

The use of dowels makes planning the door during fitting easier. You could use countersunk screws also.

The good side of the wood is up so that when gravity causes some glue to weep out while it cures it will not be on the good side of the wood.

Jocko

Lawnjockey wrote:The good side of the wood is up so that when gravity causes some glue to weep out while it cures it will not be on the good side of the wood.

Jocko

I could say something "on topic" here, but I'm not ganna do it.


CD

I see your point. Sometimes things just come out in a way subject to multiple meanings.

For example, I went for a long walk with the wife this morning and it was way cold. When we got back I cooked some biscuits in the dutch oven. The kids were sitting on the couch and I said "Daddy is cooking biscuits". The twelve year old stomps out of the room saying "Oh God" and the nine year old shouts out "Mommy Daddy is being crude again". For the life of me I can't figure out what caused the reaction. They acted like I let one go in the elevator. I've asked them and they won't tell me.

I am at a loss.

Jocko

Just a side note here.

You still need to keep the doors somewhere flat or stand them up very verticle or they will still tend to warp on you.