Screws Vs. Bolts to attach the side walls

[Newman39Fan]

In researching building my first TD, I have noticed 2 styles of attaching the side walls to the floor/frame. Some use screws, while others use bolts. I am wondering about the advantages vs. disadvantages of each. My logic tells me the bolts would be a stronger choice even though you get the cosmetic effects of bolt heads on the bottom of the side wall.

Any thoughts on either method?

[planovet]

I used a whole lot of epoxy with screws. I would see where using bolts would add strength but my design did not lend itself to using bolts.

[afreegreek]

you have to give more information about how the floor and the walls are constructed before you can get reasonable advise. without it all you can get is a vague generalization.. I want more information, and I want it NOW!!

[dwgriff1]

I used bolts and put lock tite on the threads.

dave

[Newman39Fan]

Good point. I will be using a HF 4x8 trailer. The floor will be 1/2 ply on 1x2's bolted to the floor, but 1/2 inch short on each side. So for the most part the ¾ inch side walls will sit on the frame. The bolts or screws would go into the 1x2’s of the floor.

[afreegreek]

Good point. I will be using a HF 4x8 trailer. The floor will be 1/2 ply on 1x2's bolted to the floor, but 1/2 inch short on each side. So for the most part the ¾ inch side walls will sit on the frame. The bolts or screws would go into the 1x2’s of the floor.

like this??

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[Gage]

I bolt my floor to the trailer frame. And screw & glue everything else. With me more glue than screws but I don't recommend that practice yet because it hasn't been tested in the field yet. I use a lot of Titebond II and Gorilla Glue. Lot of Titebond II and a few screws. To me Titebond acts like a weld. To break a joint apart, you end up destroying the wood

Just the way I do it, that is all.

[afreegreek]

OK, guess you went to bed (woos) or to get laid (dude!)) or to work on your trailer (freak!!) so here's my 2 cents..

bond the 1x2 to the 1/2" plywood with one of the products listed below and run #8 x1" screws every 6" or so around the perimeter of the frame. then drill and counterbore for 2-1/2 x 3/8" carriage bolts and bolt this assembly to the frame using "sill plate gasket" between the frame and the floor.(trim it to leave room for caulking) then bond the wall to the floor and install #8 x 2" deck screws every 4" into the 1x2. use a spacer or a rebate (as shown) to keep the wall off of the frame metal by about 1/8" use a good quality caulking (Sikaflex will work well) to seal the gap between the wood and the metal frame. don't forget to seal the bottom edge of the plywood. (again Sikaflex will work well)

I wouldn't use wood glue. it's not a good adhesive for less than perfect mating surfaces and doesn't like repeated freeze thaw cycles, plus it's brittle. a better product to use is something like PL Premium, PL 200, PL400, Sikaflex 291, or Sikaflex 292. run a small bead (1/4" dia.) near the top of your floor and one near the bottom and place the wall in position, then install the screws.. drill a 1/8" pilot hole for your 2" screws lest you split your 1x2.. you should get a little squeeze out when you drive the screws home. this will seal the joint.

you do not want the plywood to sit directly on the metal frame!

http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-ma-products

http://www.lepageproducts.com/products/ ... &SubID=108

http://www.owenscorning.com/worldwide/a ... 030103.pdf

[Gage]

you do not want the plywood to sit directly on the metal frame!

I need to ask WHY so I to can learn something today.



There is no hidden meaning in the above posted question.

[afreegreek]

you do not want the plywood to sit directly on the metal frame!

I need to ask WHY so I to can learn something today.



There is no hidden meaning in the above posted question.

it's more of a preventative measure so the wood won't be constantly picking up moisture from condensation on the metal. eventually it will swell the wood (unsightly) and continuous freeze thaw cycles will start to delaminate the plies. you may not need to worry about it if you and your rig live in a dry climate.. but here on the west (wet) coast of British Columbia it's almost a given.. same thing with the sill gasket. if it were my trailer I'd consider pressure treated lumber for the 1x2 as well..

[aggie79]

I wouldn't use wood glue. it's not a good adhesive for less than perfect mating surfaces and doesn't like repeated freeze thaw cycles, plus it's brittle. a better product to use is something like PL Premium, PL 200, PL400, Sikaflex 291, or Sikaflex 292. run a small bead (1/4" dia.) near the top of your floor and one near the bottom and place the wall in position, then install the screws.. drill a 1/8" pilot hole for your 2" screws lest you split your 1x2.. you should get a little squeeze out when you drive the screws home. this will seal the joint.

I am using both Titebond III and PL Premium on my build. For close tolerance work, I use screws and TB III. For other joints, I use screws and PL Premium. Buy it by the case. It will save you money.



Tom

[planovet]

I bolt my floor to the trailer frame. And screw & glue everything else. With me more glue than screws but I don't recommend that practice yet because it hasn't been tested in the field yet.

That's what I did. The floor is bolted down and I used a LOT of epoxy to glue the sides down. I used some screws and brackets but mostly to hold everything in place while the epoxy dried. Also, my diamond plate trim that runs along the outside of the bottom of the walls is attached to the trailer at the bottom and the sides at the top. Just an extra layer of security. 2600 miles so far and the teardrop is still in one piece.

you do not want the plywood to sit directly on the metal frame!

I coated the bottom of my floor with the black goo before I placed it on the frame. So there is a layer of the black goo between my wood and metal. That should prevent any moisture problems.

[Newman39Fan]

Thanks for all of the tips - and Afreegeek I went with option one of your list - bed.
To clarify a little I meant 2x2’s not 1x2’s. I have so many designs for this darn thing in my head right now that I typed in the wrong thing.
Yes the drawings above are what I am doing. I was going to coat the bottom edge of the sidewall with the roofing tar before setting it on the frame just like the flooring. With the 2x2 clarification you might see why I was saying bolts, would have been hard with 1x2. I am OK with using screws, but bolts just seemed more secure. I can’t wait until it warms up and I can start actually building instead of driving myself nuts with all the build options!!

[afreegreek]

Thanks for all of the tips - and Afreegeek I went with option one of your list - bed.
To clarify a little I meant 2x2’s not 1x2’s. I have so many designs for this darn thing in my head right now that I typed in the wrong thing.
Yes the drawings above are what I am doing. I was going to coat the bottom edge of the sidewall with the roofing tar before setting it on the frame just like the flooring. With the 2x2 clarification you might see why I was saying bolts, would have been hard with 1x2. I am OK with using screws, but bolts just seemed more secure. I can’t wait until it warms up and I can start actually building instead of driving myself nuts with all the build options!!

yup, 2x2 would be better than 1x2. any time you can increase the size of a joint's interface the stronger it will be. the only thing I would do differently than I already described is add a 3rd bead of adhesive along the joint. the more adhesive the better as long as you don't use so much it squeezes out all over the place and makes a mess.

you can use bolts if you want. I can't imagine how that could cause you any problem but it won't really strengthen the joint in any significant way because the adhesive has way more holding power than any type of mechanical fastener. screws are quicker and easier to install and a lot cheaper than nuts and bolts.

something that may interest you if you decide on bolts....

T-nuts. they are a nut and a washer in one and they have little pins that dig into the wood so you don't need a backup wrench to hold the nut as you tighten the bolt. they also sit flush with the surface.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... o?pid=1746

sealing the edges of the ply. you can use all sorts of things, tar, caulking, epoxy, paint. all these thing will work. the most important thing is you use something. this is the weak spot in the plywood and your trailer where water will do the most damage..