no table saw

[timlsalem]

I don't have use of a table saw and all I'm working with is a 71/4 circular. Does anyone have ideas how to cut the angles safely in 2x2s and 2x4s with the saw I'm using?

[bobhenry]

You can do a lot with simple wooden jigs.

I was cutting hundreds of 15 & 30 degree angles in gambrel truss legs and I simply layed 2 2x4 ( or 2x2 ) spaced slightly wider than the stock I was cutting and spaced it up with a 1/4 plywood rip so it was slightly deeper then placed a thin rip across the 2 2x4's at the angle I wanted to cut.
The little rip will guide the saw straight at the angle you have installed it.

[S. Heisley]

My power tools are all hand tools. I set up my saw horses with three 8' 2x4 boards attached to them with nuts and bolts. I use clamps to hold things in place on the boards and make my cuts. (For really big cuts, you may need to stop and move the item and re-clamp it once or twice.) For smaller things, I did finally get one of those small Black and Decker vise tables, when they went on sale. I love that thing for little item cuts. Before that, I had made a wooden jig that I clamped to my "board-enriched" saw horses. (The jig has since been recycled.) The saw horse set-up fits right in front of (or behind) the trailer chassis; so, everything only takes up one vehicle's stall. It works for me!

Oh! And, I clamped a guide board in place over my object, to help make cuts.

[alffink]

If I remember correctly, just about this time last year (maybe older) there was a great thread on cutting jigs (saw guides), I am search engine illiterate so I will hope that one of our more knowledgable will step in with a link. Oh, always remember, sdtripper2's Index, found in the header above, Steve has done a fantastic job of bringing all sorts of info into one location.

[timlsalem]

Sorry folks, I'm still confused. End cuts are no problem. they're simple but the cuts I'm not clear about are the degree cuts made on the long edge of 2x4s and 2x2s. seems like any clamp down would get in the way of the cut. I guess I could start with longer stock and make the cut then cut those to length but, that is pretty wasteful of material. I guess it's pretty clear by now, I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed.

[bobhenry]

Sorry folks, I'm still confused. End cuts are no problem. they're simple but the cuts I'm not clear about are the degree cuts made on the long edge of 2x4s and 2x2s. seems like any clamp down would get in the way of the cut. I guess I could start with longer stock and make the cut then cut those to length but, that is pretty wasteful of material. I guess it's pretty clear by now, I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed.

That's the nice part of the wood jig just cut thru it. make sure you have it nailed so you miss cutting any fastners.

[S. Heisley]

It is very hard to cut 2x4's lengthwise and even harder to cut 2x2's lengthwise. 'C' clamps work best for that as they hold the material well. You will have to stop frequently and move them out of the way of the saw.

Big box stores will do the occasional cut for you on their big saw at the back of the store, usually for free; but, I don't know if they will make lengthwise cuts. You could ask. The last I knew, if they charged (rare), it was 25 cents a cut.

You can buy pre-cut 1x2's but they will cost a bit more. Juggle which is more important: money or less hassle.

Remember: your best tools are a good mind and will-power.

[boomboomtulum]

Do you mean that your intent is to rip the 2by, doing a taper cut, from end to end regardless of the length?
If so you might clamp at least 2 -2x4s together so now you have a 2 x 8. Clamp from the under side so they will out of the way and low enough the blade will not contact clamp. You will use another 2by as a straight edge. Measure your saw from the outside of that bottom plate shoe (the piece that rides on the material) to the blade edge plus the thickness of the blade. Draw your line on the piece to be cut. Measure from that line to the measurement you just took on the saw ( from the outside edge of the plate to the blade + blade) clamp another 2by or plywood scrap (factory edge) that is long enough to make it in one pass, to the 2by you are intending on tapering. Now you built a fence that your 7 1/4 will ride against.
If those 2 measurements are correct your blade should be on the mark you made first, the spot where you intend to make your cut. Set blade to just clear through the cut. Make sure clamps are out of the way. Watch where your fingers are, put on your safety glasses, have 911 on speed dial and start the cut. There are many ways to cut a board but with your saw you can make rips. If this is not what you wanted, try a google search on How to....

Dave

[S. Heisley]

boomboomtulum Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:25 am Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Do you mean that your intent is to rip the 2by, doing a taper cut, from end to end regardless of the length?
If so you might clamp at least 2 -2x4s together so now you have a 2 x 8. Clamp from the under side so they will out of the way and low enough the blade will not contact clamp. You will use another 2by as a straight edge. Measure your saw from the outside of that bottom plate shoe (the piece that rides on the material) to the blade edge plus the thickness of the blade. Draw your line on the piece to be cut. Measure from that line to the measurement you just took on the saw ( from the outside edge of the plate to the blade + blade) clamp another 2by or plywood scrap (factory edge) that is long enough to make it in one pass, to the 2by you are intending on tapering. Now you built a fence that your 7 1/4 will ride against.
If those 2 measurements are correct your blade should be on the mark you made first, the spot where you intend to make your cut. Set blade to just clear through the cut. Make sure clamps are out of the way. Watch where your fingers are, put on your safety glasses, have 911 on speed dial and start the cut. There are many ways to cut a board but with your saw you can make rips. If this is not what you wanted, try a google search on How to....

Dave

Excellent documentation, Dave!

[timlsalem]

Thank you Dave, That made a whole lot of sense and an excelent way to do my cuts. Awesome

[Cliffmeister2000]

You can turn a circular saw into an effective table saw by mounting it in a table upside down, like a router fits into a router table. You won't have a guard, but 90% of the time the guard is off most table saws anyway. I wouldn't recommend this, but we had one as a kid.

A better option would be a cheap table saw. You can pick one up for under $100, or watch eBay and Craigslist to get a better saw with some miles on it.

A quick scan of eBay found 5 table saws from $50 - $75. at least 2 were brand new.

[timlsalem]

Thank you all for the advice.
Tim

[AZSpyder]

I picked up a Ryobi 8 inch table saw at Home Depot for just under $100 on sale. Before getting it I read a number of reviews on the unit. The general talk was it is not repeatable enough for building fine cabinets but it has been invaluable on my Puck. At the current stage of the project it is my favorite tool.
I have needed some pieces 5/8 square with one edge cut at a 15 degree angle, piece of cake. If I had the room I would love to have a full size table saw but for my space this is just what I needed. When I'm done with this project I'm going to take the saw of the stand and store it on a shelf for the future.
Jerry

[timlsalem]

found a 10" table saw at Harbor for $99. probably the way to go. Won't have to mess with jigs.

[bobhenry]

found a 10" table saw at Harbor for $99. probably the way to go. Won't have to mess with jigs.

Wanta bet !

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip020607wb.html