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fiberglass

Posted:
Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:22 pm
by timlsalem
I want to fiberglass my tear but it's still too cold here. I was wondering, for you that have fiberglassed, is it better or, maybe I mean easier, to fiberglass while you're building your tear or, after it is built or, does it even matter?
More info

Posted:
Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:32 pm
by glassice
Need a lot more info. Are your sides wood ,foam/ are you just covering the sides ? There a few co that just make a out side Shell BUT LOOK AND SEE IF YOU HAVE TO MAKE YOUR OWN JAMS

Posted:
Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:48 pm
by timlsalem
My whole tear is built out of 1/4" ply except the galley hatch. I am heading to AZ. in May to finish the build. For now I just plan to build the exterior and finish everything else in Az. That's why I was asking if it's just as easy to fiber with it already built. I would like to put some type of wood sealer on before I take it but, if I can fiber it I don't want to mess up by putting something on it that will have a bad result when fiberglassing.

Posted:
Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:23 pm
by DasBaldGuy
Hello fellow Central-Ohioan!
You can fibreglass your TD in a garage as long as the temperature is above 50. It might take 48 hours to fully cure and not be taky to the touch. If you haven't put it together, it would be easier to put the fibreglass on the walls while they are laying flat.
Obviously you would need to do the roof once it is fully assembled.
I Plan to fibreglass my entire TD as well.

Posted:
Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:36 pm
by afreegreek
polyester resin will set up when it's fairly cold but it may go cloudy on you if there's a lot of moisture in the air. if you're painting, it won't matter but it will if you're doing a woody.
STOP

Posted:
Sat Mar 06, 2010 2:02 am
by glassice
STOP STOP OK I DONT THINK YOU WANT TO FIBERGLASS YOUR TEAR . IF it to thin it will pop. To thick you will need a 18 Wheeler to pull. what I think migh be the best is epoxy over the ply wood. Doug Hodder is the one to look at his post .

Posted:
Sat Mar 06, 2010 9:20 am
by timlsalem
If I use polyester resin as a sealer and then, paint over that with the same stuff boats are painted with, will this be enough protection from weather?

Posted:
Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:53 pm
by DasBaldGuy
timlsalem wrote:If I use polyester resin as a sealer and then, paint over that with the same stuff boats are painted with, will this be enough protection from weather?
Yes it certainly should be.
I haven't decided yet whether or not I will use one layer of cloth on my roof once it is together, but no matter what, I am going to use polyester fibreglass resin on the entire outside of my tear (walls and roof) and then paint (either with automotive paint or some kind of roll-on).
...adding one layer of glasscloth to the exterior surfaces will probably be over-kill but I do not think it is going to make your tear much more heavy and certainly won't require an 18wheeler to pull.

Posted:
Sun Mar 07, 2010 2:34 pm
by glassice
DasBaldGuy 1 layer on wood are foam WILL pop. timlsalem if you can hold out for epoxy it not that much more and try to get one with the most UV inhiber been doing glass for over 36 years man I am old .NO matter what you do it will get a scrach it will laster longer with epoxy go on the web and stay a way from west you pay a lot just for a name Lot of luck just take your time .Ask your self how dose the wood look do you want a woody look at the cost of boat paint .

Posted:
Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:04 pm
by timlsalem
This is what I want. I've never done any kind of fiberglass work so I'm a novis at it. I want something to put on my 1/4" skin and roof to protect it from the elements. I've always used exterior house paint in the past which held up to the elements but didn't have the strength I wanted. I want to match the color to the color of my car or as close to. Polyester resin looks like something that will be able to do that. If I can get away from laying down fiberglass cloth it would be better. Paint for boats are another area I've been looking into. They can be put right on bare wood but I don't know what type to us. There are so many applications for this paint ie: bottom, side, deck. I will attemped to fiberglass if I have no other choices but, before I do I want to examine all the options out there. Thanks
Tim
KIA'S--MIA'S--POW'S--DAV'S--are what our freedom cost us

Posted:
Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:22 pm
by DasBaldGuy
glassice wrote:DasBaldGuy 1 layer on wood are foam WILL pop.
What does that mean?
I've been using fibreglass for about 20 years now making various speaker boxes, model boats etc...and I've applied it directly to wood and used Cloth and matt. So far everything I have built has stood the test of time and still seems to be very strong. I've even done some furniture repair (fixed/strengthened old wobbly drawers etc.) with fibreglass and cloth/matt and haven't had any problems.
I may order epoxy resin to do my roof/sides but honestly I don't see how it can be that much better than regular old Polyester Resin and cloth. I do plan to paint the Tear so the UV problem (as well as the water seepage through the pores) is not an issue.

Posted:
Sun Mar 07, 2010 4:39 pm
by glassice
do 3 layers at least 1.5 mat you have 7oo lb are more that are fighting at 60mph You can use polyester resin BUT KEEP IT PAINTED the sun want to eat it up a low cost paint is rustolem just have to wet sand a litte more The wood will get water in it just from the air the trailers in my album are glass over foam Just know there a rock that Will ride on a flatbed trailer 2000mi. just to jump off and hit your trailer


Posted:
Sun Mar 07, 2010 4:50 pm
by glassice
DasBaldGuy your trailer is fighting wind rain rock even a few beer can wood will grow biger with water in the air. one side of your trailer will get hot in the sun so the wood moves more than glass so it will delamanat pop then the glass will have to hold it own timlsalem look at some of the co that sell just the out side skins for tears NO seam to keep water tight then you can add foam are wood to the in side PUT if you DO look at the door jams are mold in that way you dont have to fight making your own jams

Posted:
Sun Mar 07, 2010 5:17 pm
by starleen2
OK folks - either I did something wrong or you guys are just analysing way too much. Here are some construction picts of the ladybug. What you are looking at is 5mm luan with fiberglass tape only on the seams and then then entire body sealed with polyester resin rolled on in two coats
The outside front curve was done in strips because it has a compound bow in it
Then to radius the corners and smooth the transition, body filler is applied and shaped
Finally painted in ENAMEL exterior latex house paint - and it has held up in the Texas summer heat, been in freezing rain - and everything in between. Nothing has delaminated or separated - did not use CPES. I'm sure both of you have many years of fiberglass experience - way more than me ( slim to none) and you can probably give us numerous reason why this will not work - but there she is - explain the anomaly?


Posted:
Sun Mar 07, 2010 5:56 pm
by glassice
starleen2 looks great .That why I ask what the wood look like to show the wood just epoxy is the best. To hide and cover you can not beat the way you did it . That why I said I DONT THINK YOU WANT TO FIBERGLASS YOUR TEAR . If you get a litte time try rust-oleum it has a harder coat than laytex you coated the wood with res. Fiberglass is using some tipe of fiber with a res. With a glass trailer and NO plywood under it less time to upkeep easer to fix . Not roting from the in side FOR US I my shelf that will not look for leaks