Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I've done the search engine and did find some threads on this subject but didn't find an answer to my question. I can't remember how I attached the spars to walls. I am using 1x2's. every 12"







KIA'S--MIA'S--POW'S--DAV'S--are what our freedom cost us

sorry, using 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 not 1x2's

timlsalem wrote:I can't remember how I attached the spars to walls.

If you can't remember how you attached them, how am I?

^

I can't remember how I attached the spars to walls.

Typically, the walls are marked for spar placement w/ 12 inch centers (or wheverever one likes) as you've noted, then each spar end is glued and screwed into position.

The deluxe way to do it is to rabbet (using a router or a chisel) a whatever-fraction-of-an-inch-deep relief into the wall for the spar end to sit,
-then- glue and clamp w/ pipe clamp across the width span of the teardrop cabin. Screws can be used instead of clamps, but as we all know, a properly-glued joint does not require a fastener after curing.

Boy you guys will tease any day huh! I attached mine through the side walls and put blocks on either side so they wouldn't go anywhere. Way over did it but gave me lots of glue surface........

The thing is you have to put trim over the screw holes when you do this. And be sure to use good glue!

When you throw a lob like that I just had to hit it...sorry

I used Steve's method in some of my build. The sides allow for a step that the interior roof lays in and the the spars go on top of that (kind of like the rabbit that Chris mentioned). I glued my spars to the ceiling and screwed them down into the wall framing. That way there were no fasteners on the outside. Good thing since my sides were already finished.

I built my roof somewhat like a hatch. There are outer 3/4" plywood ribs. The 1x2 poplar spars are 12" on center and are glued and fastened to the ribs with pocket screws. At the hatch and at the roof vent, I doubled up the 1x2s. Where the curves in my profile were tight, I decreased the spacing to 6".



After the roof framing was fitted in place, I removed the framing and attached 1/8 plywood to the bottom using glues and staples, and then applied hull liner for the finished roof. This assembly was then permanently installed to the sidewalls with glue and screws. I used screws from the outside, through the sidewall and rib into the roof framing. I also used screws to fasten the other direction from the ribs into the sidewalls.



Sounds like a lot of extra steps, but this way allowed me to finish the ceiling outside of the teardrop rather than from the inside.

Tom

I went thru the old vintage build info and found this method and used it on 3 builds .........







It provides more glue area and a mechanical fastening as well.

Do not screw directly into the end grain of the 2x2 , angle upward and pull the connection into your glue bed and the fastner will also hold better across the grain. I had a couple pop out the top and just hit them with a grinder before I got good at judging the angle and adjusted the length of screw. I stated my 12 o/c lay out from the hinge point of the hatch makes it easier to find then when needed since the hing point will always be there.

Wow, that looks great Tom. Thanks for the pic's it helps. No harm no foul Mark. I appreciate all the advice you and others here have given me. Due to circumstances I'm kind of living the 50 first dates . Pictures are great and works best for me.








KIA'S--MIA'S--POW'S--DAV'S--are what our freedom cost us

Tom, that is brilliant. Great photos.

Now you have me rethinking the way I was just about to do my roof. With your method I could build the entire roof in the basement/woodshop and take it outside and just attach it to the walls. I would think it would be easier to keep the entire thing square this way too.

Dang it, how can I ever get anything done if I keep rethinking everything!

Some use L brackets some, dovetail. some screw in from sidewall thats if it will be covered up by laminate or ply or skin
Alot of us use Kreg tool to pocket hole the spar in place http://www.kregtool.com/products/pht/pr ... DUCT_ID=30