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Roofing tar help

PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:14 pm
by dh
I was at the hardware store today and took a look at the rofing tar. There are a whole bunch of types, which is best for the underside of the tear?

PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:15 am
by Steve_Cox
Don't know if there is a "best" but I used Gardner Plastic Roof Cement on a couple of trailers, and like the way it worked. I put down big globs of it with a wide putty knife and rolled it with a foam roller made for epoxy, I used 2 coats, with extra on the edges.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:57 am
by Ron H
But, is roofing tar the best for this application? Why not use
pressure treated plywood with oil base exterior paint?
Paint will dry, roofing tar can stay moist and can become
soft with hot weather.
Paint will stay in place, tar can create pockets to hold water.
Paint can be recoated every year with little mess, try
that with tar.
So, why tar?
Ron

PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:31 am
by Miriam C.
Ron H wrote:But, is roofing tar the best for this application? Why not use
pressure treated plywood with oil base exterior paint?
Paint will dry, roofing tar can stay moist and can become
soft with hot weather.
Paint will stay in place, tar can create pockets to hold water.
Paint can be recoated every year with little mess, try
that with tar.
So, why tar?
Ron


:thinking: The old pressure treated wood had chemicals in it that were not good for you. The new stuff might too. Your choice! :)

What you use to water proof is your choice too. Many have done it. I used cheap Henry's and put it on with a Dollar Tree squeegee. Worked well until I tried to get it in the holes I drilled. :roll:

PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 9:55 am
by zapj
I used Minwax Clear Shield on the underside horizontal surfaces. On the vertical surfaces of my under floor storage boxes that would be exposed to road surface spray I used Gardner. ;)

PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 12:06 pm
by AZSpyder
I don't remember the brand but I used some stuff made for sticking down a rolled roof that I had laying around. It was thin enough to spread on with a brush. I keep a box of Harbor Freight chip brushes for these sort of uses.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 1:40 pm
by synaps3
Image

Henry 107 Asphalt Emulsion paint.

Mine actually dried, which is different from some people's experience. I highly recommend it.

I applied a medium-thickness layer using a standard paintbrush... Nothing fancy...

Why tar? It holds up to wear far better than oil paint.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 6:44 pm
by dh
Ron H wrote:But, is roofing tar the best for this application? Why not use
pressure treated plywood with oil base exterior paint?
Paint will dry, roofing tar can stay moist and can become
soft with hot weather.
Paint will stay in place, tar can create pockets to hold water.
Paint can be recoated every year with little mess, try
that with tar.
So, why tar?
Ron


I really don't want to paint the bottom of my trailer every year. Also, like Miriam said, PT plywood has some nasty chemicals in it.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:24 pm
by 2bits
Yeah, I used the Henry's stuff too. when you say it like Tar it sounds wet and goey. When you say asphalt or cement that gives it a different feel. That's semantics though.

I bought a gallon and got a solid dried, thick, fully protected surface, and have used it in other places too.

PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:01 am
by Grid Runner Adventures
what options are there for a guy like me that's building a camper that's detachable from the trailer. cant use the henry's it'll stick to the deck of my hf trailer.
the only parts of the trailer that will be exposed to roadspray directly are the 1ft overhangs on the sides. as its a 6ft wide camper on 4 ft wide trailer

PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:14 am
by sagebrush
Many years ago I worked for a travel trailer company. On the bottom of the floor frame (2x3) we used heavy building felt. About 30#. Stapled just enough to keep it in place. This was covered with aluminum ,same as was used for siding, just odd colors, nailed with roofing rails about every 12" The floor was then flipped onto the frame and then attached with 3/8 lag screws. One on each corner and intermediately, not more than 8' apart. This seemed to be industry standard. Will

PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:32 am
by Grid Runner Adventures
what is the widest alum flashing you can buy at lowes. not finding on the website. maybe use that and caulk the joints

PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:37 am
by sagebrush
That would propably work. Might also check local heating/cooling contractors/ recyclerr for damaged/recycled ducts or sheat metal. Will

PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:53 am
by Grid Runner Adventures
http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/album_personal.php?user_id=10334

there is this. its 14 inch wide. so for a 6 ft camper you'd need roughly 5.5 strips of it going length wise to cover the bottom of a 6x8 camper like m building, they do have a 20 inch wide strip but its double the price . they come in 50 ft rolls and the 14 inch i'd need 41 feet.

what purpose does the felt have? something that can close around the lag screws?

PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:02 am
by Grid Runner Adventures
what am i thinking.. I will be using truck bedliner similar to rhino liner for the whole outer shell of my camper.... why not use this for the undercoat too! it will dry and be a positive water barrier! and be used for what its made for. heh

problem solved.. on to next part of the camper... heh