Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I was just watching a new (at least to me) woodworking show called 'Woodsmith Shop." They just did a segment on various types of joinery. One segment showed how to use a pocket hole jig. I'm pretty sure it's the Kreg jig, but they never said the brand name.

Here is the segment:
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season1/113/

I've not used a Kreg jig yet but heard good things about it. This segment really convinced me.

the best thing about a Kreg jig is the basic will do everything the deluxe will. great tool, handy and cheap but very effective and easy to use..

afreegreek wrote:the best thing about a Kreg jig is the basic will do everything the deluxe will. great tool, handy and cheap but very effective and easy to use..

+1

I used the Kreg to join the face frames of my cabinets. Very easy. Add a little bit of glue and you will have a strong joint.

That is awesome. I can't wait to use one.

I used to have the expensive one from CMT and thought it was the best until i got the kreg deluxe system. Sold the CMT setup in a garage sale soon after.
You'll love it every time you use it.
Chuck

WOW! I was just about to ask how you guys joined your cabinet frames. Great post!!!

The Pilot Hole Jig RULES!
I used it to make the holes for joining the rafters to the sides and the shelf in the nose. I found myself looking for places where I could use it. It makes for very strong joints especially when partnered with carpenter's glue.
Steve

Can you use the Kreg jig to join the rafters/spars to the sides if you are only using 3/4 birch plywood for the sidewalls and not insulating them? Those must be mighty short screws.
Having just found out that 3/4 natural birch veneer core plywood runs @ $75 for a 4x8 sheet has me a little worried that I could easily make a costly booboo with the jig.

mcspin50 wrote:Can you use the Kreg jig to join the rafters/spars to the sides if you are only using 3/4 birch plywood for the sidewalls and not insulating them? Those must be mighty short screws.
Having just found out that 3/4 natural birch veneer core plywood runs @ $75 for a 4x8 sheet has me a little worried that I could easily make a costly booboo with the jig.

Yes you can. The screws are 1 1/4" long. The "pocket hole" will be drilled into the roof spar. So there is no chance of messing up the plywood with the jig.

mcspin50 wrote:Can you use the Kreg jig to join the rafters/spars to the sides if you are only using 3/4 birch plywood for the sidewalls and not insulating them? Those must be mighty short screws.
Having just found out that 3/4 natural birch veneer core plywood runs @ $75 for a 4x8 sheet has me a little worried that I could easily make a costly booboo with the jig.

You can use the regular Kreg jig down to ½" and that would use a 1" screw. For ¾" it would take a 1-¼" and both bond quite securely especially with glue. The jig has thickness guide to make setup pretty easy and have yet to have one of the points protrude from the opposite side. For thinner stuff there is a Micro-jig.

What Brad said

You can adjust the jig for different sizes of wood. I would practice on some scrap pieces first just to make sure your depth is set right and that you have the technique down. Regular ply might not hold as well but if you are using good quality birch ply you should be fine.

Thanks Brad, Courtney and Mark,
One more niggling worry put to rest.
I bought one of the smaller Kreg jigs for my teardrop project, then bought another with my Menard's rebate to send to my oldest son in Utah for his birthday. He was quite pleased to get it. He takes after his Mom and his Grandma who love a good woodworking project.

I'm gonna invest in a kreg jig myself as soon as I reach that point in my build where I'll need one. --Larry

May sound silly, but I can handle that...

-do you need special screws for this?
(I saw that in the store, next to the product they had Kreg screws. Just a racket, or are they designed differently?)

-What plugs are often used? Do you use preformed plugs, as biscuits are sold in big jars? Or is a wood putty better? Or nothing! I guess that would work too.

The screw design is different. It has a cut thread to help prevent splitting and it has a washer-head to "clamp" the two pieces of wood together.

If the pocket hole is not in a highly visible area I do not use plugs.

If I use pocket holes to make cabinet door frames then I do use the Kreg wood plugs. Glue in place and sand smooth.