Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

After sitting dormant for the last 6 mos I'm back to finishing this tear off. What kind of glue did you peeps use between layers on roof? Titebond III or Gorrilla Glue or Liquid Nails or ?

Bruce

Why do you need to glue two sheets of 1/8" ply together for the roof? Wouldn't one 1/4" sheet work and no glue?

I used Gorilla, but didn't glue two sheets of anything together, just my roof to spars, spars to walls, etc.

Seem like a great way to make a 1/2 lap joint to weatherproof the seams !

on no. 1, I used titebond II and plenty of it in swirls... on no. 2, used a single layer of 1/8...

OK guys, guess I shoulda been more specific. I'm building a woody using Steve Fredericks "inside out" method. Walls are up, headliner & spars are in, 1st 1/8" layer of Red Oak is in extended 1-1/2" on sides for clamping 2nd layer to. I'm putting a 2nd layer because I was led to believe that 1/4" wouldn't make the bend. I'm doing a 2nd layer and fibreglassing w/ epoxy so NO fasteners will be visible. I used Liquid Nails and Titebond + a combination of brads and screws to glue 1st layer. I'm joining 3 sheets together w/ fibreglass on table and then securing it to roof. I'm concerned w/ working times on glue set up as it may take me 15 min or more to get it lined up the way I want it. (Maybe it will only take me 2 min, what do I know, I'm a Pizza Guy)

Well if it's not flat, one sheet of 1/8" is strong enough, especially if your going to fiberglass over it. !/4" is over kill no mater what those who think they know everything tell you. Arne has done it both ways and I'll bet he has no regrets doing it the way he did it with his second build which is also bigger than his first.

on curves, 1/8 is fine for me, but I do have to push it around where the walls meet the roof, the 1/8 does have give to it.... kind of like the 'no step' signs on airplane wings...

But, I like it... easier to build. no regrets.

Gage wrote:Well if it's not flat, one sheet of 1/8" is strong enough, especially if your going to fiberglass over it. !/4" is over kill no mater what those who think they know everything tell you. Arne has done it both ways and I'll bet he has no regrets doing it the way he did it with his second build which is also bigger than his first.

Thanks for your comments Gage, I really admire your work. I'll keep your opinion in mind if I build a 2nd one. But since this is how my plan is progressing I'll have to stick with the plan as is. I want to have a clean surface to keep that woody look w/ no fasteners exposed. And seeing as I used some screws & brads to mount the 1st layer I want to add a 2nd and glue it on w/ NO fasteners visible.

Bruce

Pizzaguy wrote: Thanks for your comments Gage, I really admire your work. I'll keep your opinion in mind if I build a 2nd one. But since this is how my plan is progressing I'll have to stick with the plan as is. I want to have a clean surface to keep that woody look w/ no fasteners exposed. And seeing as I used some screws & brads to mount the 1st layer I want to add a 2nd and glue it on w/ NO fasteners visible.
Bruce

Aw, then use Titebond II or III. It'll weld the two ply's together like it is one. Use a trowel to spread it and when you lay down your second sheet be sure it's where you want it because you won't have much time to move it around. Good luck. Do a 1' x 1' test piece just to get a feel for it.

Can trim be another option? I stapled my 1/8" roof in place,(along the edges) covered with CPES, and then spar varnish. Next was trim on sides and overlapped the roof trim over the top edge of side trim,(which covered the staples) then, again with the spar varnish. I have a decent bend, and found it is pretty solid. I did glue the 1/8" BB to the spars and the insulation board, so pretty solid.

PL Premium or liquid nails will work the best. don't put it on using the tube though. a finely notched trowel works best.. this is the one best used for applying adhesives. 3/16" x 5/32" V notch..


http://www.marshalltown.com/productDeta ... odID=17935

Another vote for PL. I used that to adhere the second sheet, except on the edges where I usde Titebond 3. the PL will give you long working time and great gap filling.