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sealing and aligning the hatch

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:49 am
by bfitz
Hi All,

Been a long winter, but I survived. No progress on the tear until lately. A question: Are there drawbacks to using the following set up to seal the hatch and align it when closed?

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It seems like it would be easy to construct, durable, and weatherproofish.

Not shown:
Round-overs on the top of the spline to ease closing.
Rubber gasket inside the upper dado to make weather tight.


Thanks,
Brian

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:01 am
by gregp136
Rookie response here. For me, it doesn't leave enough room for error. I like the fact that if I am off a little bit, or the hatch moves a smidge, it will still close and seal. But that is taking into account my building skills, which are below many who are on this site.

Again, this answer is from a rookie.

:?

Greg (and Laurie)

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:32 am
by absolutsnwbrdr
^+1

I'm certainly not saying it can't be done, but it'd be mighty difficult to get that to align on a curve, and align on both sides.

If you build it with enough tolerances I could see it working.... maybe a 1" wide dado, with a 3/4" wide rabbet, leaving 1/8" of tolerance on both sides of the rabbet.

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:47 am
by jamwius
I am doing something similar to that. But my bottom tongue will be 1/2" and the top groove will be 3/4" or maybe 7/8" giving an 1/8" or 3/16" play on each side. Mark with the "Little Switzerland" used something like that too. He has some pictures on his website.

http://littleswissteardrop.com/

John

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:54 am
by Ageless
Go out and pop the trunk on your car. Look at how much 'slop' there is but it still seals. Even Navy ships use a knife seal to achieve air tight seal

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 1:35 pm
by grizz
Got the same problem on my mind, but looking at Zach's URABUS build, there may be enough of a solution there.

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 1:38 pm
by planovet
jamwius wrote:I am doing something similar to that. But my bottom tongue will be 1/2" and the top groove will be 3/4" or maybe 7/8" giving an 1/8" or 3/16" play on each side. Mark with the "Little Switzerland" used something like that too. He has some pictures on his website.

http://littleswissteardrop.com/

John


Yep, I did mine similar to that. It is the way Steve Fredrick does it in his shop manual. My bottom tongue (the gray part in the pics below) was 1/2" and the top gap (yellow arrow) was 3/4". You need a little gap or it will be too tight. Any swelling of the tongue wood and you are screwed if you don't have it. It's a lot of work but it works great. And everyone that sees it loves it.

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