that joint is not appropriate in plywood or soft wood. and it's a lot of work to make compared to a plain rebate.. it has some "theoretical" advantage over a plain rebate because of the increase in area of the glue bond but in real life that goes out the window because of the short grain. I wouldn't use a spline in this situation for the same reason.. a good alternative is a lemello because you do not cut all the way across the grain like the dadoed section of this joint. this joint is primarily to assisting in keeping everything aligned during glue up and not much more..bobhenry wrote:Here is a rather strong rabbet joint , it is easily done with a good table saw. Lots of glue face and a great mechanical hold as well.
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jointing-and-planing/lock-rabbet-drawer-joints/
first off, I didn't say it won't work and I didn't say it was a zero idea. perhaps you should re-read it.bobhenry wrote:Well, I will of course bow to your advanced knowledge of wood and wood fiber stress related tendencies.
I had no idea of the degree of your training in the mechanical aspects of wood joinery and the even deeper knowledge of the actual mechanical properties of each species of lumber. In my poor dumb country way I was just tryin' ta hep out. Sorry I trashed up your thread with a zero idea.
I will of course edit it to warn others !
StPatrón wrote:Ya know, I've learned a lot from both of you but I guess I'm not in the mood today to observe another pissing contest.
If anyone has suggestions on sealing wheel wells OR under-bed storage compartments, I would greatly appreciate it. So, I'll give this one more try.
StPatrón wrote:Steve & Rob: Thanks gentlemen. I'm an admirer of your builds and value your opinions highly. Your replies are appreciated.
48Rob wrote:I'll agree that metal wheel wells are better for longevity, but they didn't make the size I needed...Rob
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