Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I've searched the archives and can't find much, so hope you don't mind my question.

I'm building interior wheel wells for my "standy" and have constructed them from plywood, sealing them with roofing tar underneath.

1. Do you think tar is sufficient or would you fiberglass them or use some other product instead?

2. How did you attach the wells to the flooring?

3. Did you use a sealing membrane between the wells and the flooring?

Any tips are much appreciated, thank you.

I would suggest fitting the tubs into rather than onto the flooring.. just cut out the space and glue (construction adhesive, PL or Sikaflex not wood glue) and screw through them into the edge of the floor. it would be even better if they hung down slightly too. perhaps an 1/8 to 1/4 inch.. that way the edge of the floor is not exposed. if you want a little more strength (??) you can put a 1/4" rebate around the perimeter so a little of the tub is sitting on the floor..

withdrawn !

bobhenry wrote:Here is a rather strong rabbet joint , it is easily done with a good table saw. Lots of glue face and a great mechanical hold as well.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jointing-and-planing/lock-rabbet-drawer-joints/

that joint is not appropriate in plywood or soft wood. and it's a lot of work to make compared to a plain rebate.. it has some "theoretical" advantage over a plain rebate because of the increase in area of the glue bond but in real life that goes out the window because of the short grain. I wouldn't use a spline in this situation for the same reason.. a good alternative is a lemello because you do not cut all the way across the grain like the dadoed section of this joint. this joint is primarily to assisting in keeping everything aligned during glue up and not much more..

I give it a zero out of 10 on the time to benefit scale.. even for making drawers and small boxes it only rates a 5 out of 10

withdrawn !

bobhenry wrote:Well, I will of course bow to your advanced knowledge of wood and wood fiber stress related tendencies.
I had no idea of the degree of your training in the mechanical aspects of wood joinery and the even deeper knowledge of the actual mechanical properties of each species of lumber. In my poor dumb country way I was just tryin' ta hep out. Sorry I trashed up your thread with a zero idea.

I will of course edit it to warn others !

first off, I didn't say it won't work and I didn't say it was a zero idea. perhaps you should re-read it.

second, I'm a professional cabinetmaker, have been most of my working life. I've studied and worked to the level that I can put the words master craftsman/joiner on my card should I choose to do so. my work is in some of the finest homes and offices in Vancouver and some of the finest yachts in the world. I work for some of the most highly regarded millwork and yacht companies there is and they pay me well for my skills and my knowledge. I'm sharing a little of it here for free.. you can take it or leave it.

Hey, you ever wonder what the woodwork on a 20 million dollar yacht looks like?? you know the kind where you get the screws gold plated so they don't tarnish.. you can see some of my work on this link.

http://www.crescentcustomyachts.com/crescent/legacy.php

what's that saying? ah! been there done that, got the T-shirt. (actually 5 T-shirts. one for each yacht)

Sorry St Pat

Ya know, I've learned a lot from both of you but I guess I'm not in the mood today to observe another pissing contest.

If anyone has suggestions on sealing wheel wells OR under-bed storage compartments, I would greatly appreciate it. So, I'll give this one more try.

StPatrón wrote:Ya know, I've learned a lot from both of you but I guess I'm not in the mood today to observe another pissing contest.

If anyone has suggestions on sealing wheel wells OR under-bed storage compartments, I would greatly appreciate it. So, I'll give this one more try.

In keeping it simple epoxy will work and if you thicken it with the available additives it makes a nice gap filling joint too.

If anyone wants to say otherwise and act like they are superior, screw em.

sometimes I think sharing my hard earned knowledge here is equal to pi$$ing into the wind..

G.

My trailer isn't quite a standy, but I made my wheel wells from plywood.

They are screwed to the floor/wall with cleats, and glued/sealed with PL polyurethane sealant.

After building and sealing, I applied another bead of PL, and smoothed it out into the corners to fill them in a bit, preventing a deep recess for mud, etc, to collect in.
Then all of the wheel well/underside of the trailer was coated with rubberized undercoating, 3 coats.

We have several thousand miles on the trailer now, and the undercoating is holding up well, despite several fairly long side trips down gravel roads.

I'll agree that metal wheel wells are better for longevity, but they didn't make the size I needed...that would also serve as support for the bed...

<img src="http://w48rob.wik.is/@api/deki/files/242/=SAVE5.jpg">

<img src="http://w48rob.wik.is/@api/deki/files/209/=inside.jpg">

Sorry, I can't find any shots from the underside, but it is just a box...

Roofing tar should work as well as any other thick coating, the idea being to prevent road debris (rocks, junk, etc,) from penetrating the protective layer and allowing moisture to degrade the wood.
I check mine a couple times a year, and am ready to apply more coating if it looks thin or damaged.

Rob

Steve & Rob: Thanks gentlemen. I'm an admirer of your builds and value your opinions highly. Your replies are appreciated.

bobhenry wrote:Sorry St Pat

No problem, Bob.

StPatrón wrote:Steve & Rob: Thanks gentlemen. I'm an admirer of your builds and value your opinions highly. Your replies are appreciated.

G,

You're quite welcome, Rob is a true expert when it come to restorations and has vast experience, I on the other hand just tried to emulate some of the old timers here on the forum and it seems to work pretty good.

48Rob wrote:I'll agree that metal wheel wells are better for longevity, but they didn't make the size I needed...Rob

I have a local A/C sheet metal shop that does great work and very reasonable. When living elsewhere I've used shops across the country with excellent results.

If they don't make what you want in sheet metal it might be worth asking for a quote from an A/C sheet metal shop. You might get exactly what you want for a fair price.

Cheers,

Gus