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Belt Sander + Door Radius = Help?

PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 10:16 pm
by kiltedwon
So just like my barber, I took a little too much off, and I'm wondering if T-mold will cover this particular mistake up. It's about 1/4" at its worst. Thoughts?
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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 10:31 pm
by Gage
It should cover it. You might take a piece of the 'T' molding and check to be sure. If not, just cut another door using the opening as your guide. Also, you need at least a 1/4 inch gap on three sides. The hinge will control the gap on the hinge side. You need the gap for the 'T' molding and door closure clearance.

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P.S. A trick that a few of us do is use the plug that you cut out of the side for the door opening as the door. That way, most of the time it will line right up with matching trim, male/female.

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 3:28 am
by afreegreek
KILTS ROCK!!!

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 5:55 am
by Lou Park
I'm not so sure that you are in any trouble. It looks like you don't have enough gap on the rest of the door. Get yourself an old fashion compass with a pencil attached, and scribe out a 1/4" line all around the door. You might be surprised.
Lou

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 11:40 am
by kiltedwon
Thanks for putting me at ease, I've heard many refer to a 1/8" gap for doors so I thought I was in trouble, but taking more wood off has never been a problem for me!

Doors

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 11:54 am
by john curtis
Not to hijack this post,but I was wondering how many inches on center you placed your roof spars on Gage ?

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 6:36 pm
by afreegreek
kiltedwon wrote:Thanks for putting me at ease, I've heard many refer to a 1/8" gap for doors so I thought I was in trouble, but taking more wood off has never been a problem for me!


a 1/8" gap is more for furniture and cabinets than passage doors. 3/16" to 1/4" is the norm for most passage doors. if they're solid wood doors, frame and panel or slab, a 1/4" is about the minimum because solid wood expands quite a bit and it's all in one direction because of the hinge.. when I install doors I always make at least 1/4" to allow for expansion and hinge slop. nobody notices a gap unless it uneven but everyone notices a door that rubs and binds in the jamb.

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 7:35 pm
by Gage
afreegreek wrote:
kiltedwon wrote:Thanks for putting me at ease, I've heard many refer to a 1/8" gap for doors so I thought I was in trouble, but taking more wood off has never been a problem for me!
a 1/8" gap is more for furniture and cabinets than passage doors. 3/16" to 1/4" is the norm for most passage doors. if they're solid wood doors, frame and panel or slab, a 1/4" is about the minimum because solid wood expands quite a bit and it's all in one direction because of the hinge.. when I install doors I always make at least 1/4" to allow for expansion and hinge slop. nobody notices a gap unless it uneven but everyone notices a door that rubs and binds in the jamb.

Man I'm glad your such an expert on building teardrop doors. We need more experts here. So when are we going to see one of the teardrops you've built or have you built any? And by the way, I've been in all kinds of weather and also live in the high desert where it gets real hot at times, and I've never known of a teardrop door expanding. :thinking:

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 9:08 pm
by afreegreek
Gage wrote:
afreegreek wrote:
kiltedwon wrote:Thanks for putting me at ease, I've heard many refer to a 1/8" gap for doors so I thought I was in trouble, but taking more wood off has never been a problem for me!
a 1/8" gap is more for furniture and cabinets than passage doors. 3/16" to 1/4" is the norm for most passage doors. if they're solid wood doors, frame and panel or slab, a 1/4" is about the minimum because solid wood expands quite a bit and it's all in one direction because of the hinge.. when I install doors I always make at least 1/4" to allow for expansion and hinge slop. nobody notices a gap unless it uneven but everyone notices a door that rubs and binds in the jamb.

Man I'm glad your such an expert on building teardrop doors. We need more experts here. So when are we going to see one of the teardrops you've built or have you built any? And by the way, I've been in all kinds of weather and also live in the high desert where it gets real hot at times, and I've never known of a teardrop door expanding. :thinking:
perhaps you should wipe your glasses off and re-read my comment. then you might notice the words SOLID WOOD DOORS and SOLID WOOD EXPANDS.

as for your TD comment. I've built 121 foot yachts, 92 foot yachts, 45 foot yachts, 32 foot speed boats, a 29 foot racing sloop and more paddle craft than I care to mention. with the exception of the latter, they are all made and finished with the same materials as a TD trailer and they live in the same or an even more extreme environment that a TD does.. about the only difference I can see is one has wheels on it and the rest do not. perhaps you can enlighten us??

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 9:10 pm
by afreegreek
BTW, hot desert environments tend to cause wood to contract in size not expand. got any more brilliant observations???

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 9:35 pm
by kiltedwon
I think my moment of panic has passed, but I really appreciate all the info. If I've learned anything on this forum its that there are several ways to hammer a nail, and/or thumb!

As for me yeah, this is my first teardrop, and yeah, I do rock the kilt, and yeah, I did(key word) have the original door cutouts, but I was short on wood, and they got recycled before I actually thought about what I was doing. Enthusiasm + inexperience = more TD forum posts. I'm sure glad you guys are out there just waitin for newbies like me.

Anyway, I guess what I'm saying is thanks for y'alls help, and you'll be hearing from me in the future, Be sure of it!