Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm running some wires inside my walls before I glue on the final skin and want to put something on them to keep them from getting glued to the wall. Will Vasaline hurt anyting if used inside the wall?

Dunno. You can certainly use some clear tape. Just be sure you know where they are so you don't drill through them later........

The insulation sheathing on most all coated elctrical wire is oil and solvent resistant. I would not hesitate to use it. Another idea would be cooking spray or cooking oil. When large commercial buildings are done in conduit they use a pulling lube to allow the long runs and large bundles of wires to slide easily thru the conduit. I am certain it is similar in composition.

If you want the real stuff any electrical supply houe will have one of these brands.......

http://www.toolup.com/ideal/cable-pulling/cable-pulling-lube/

One thought is petrolatum is oil based and will continue to wick for a long while possibly soaking thru the wood fiber and affecting any interior finishes you try to apply if it is able to travel that far. KY jelly is water base and will evaporate in a few days. It is water base and water soluable for easy cleanup ..... and using up the leftovers could be great fun

bobhenry wrote: ..... and using up the leftovers could be great fun

why do you care if it gets glued to the wall?

I would not use anything that might get absorbed into the wood and keep the finish from sticking... it might migrate through the panel to the other side, but am not sure about that one.

The way they are running, if i leave a large tail out of the hole where they enter the celing, the wall will not be able to lay flat on the floor for gluing. I was going to coil up some extra in the larger switch opening and pull them out the top after wall is glued.

dh wrote:The way they are running, if i leave a large tail out of the hole where they enter the celing, the wall will not be able to lay flat on the floor for gluing. I was going to coil up some extra in the larger switch opening and pull them out the top after wall is glued.

Just a thought .....

If you lay down new sheets of blue foam it will allow equal pressure on all areas and yet compress where there is a point load. When you pick up your wall there will be an imprint of the wires in the foam but the veneer side will have had the exact same pressure all over. It will also protect from small rocks and variations in the concrete. You can use the foam later in the roof so it will not be a waste.

Oil/petroleum will attack rubber and some plastics. Silicone such as Armorall will not. You can also use dry lubes, heck I have even used dry antiperspirant

bobhenry wrote:

dh wrote:The way they are running, if i leave a large tail out of the hole where they enter the celing, the wall will not be able to lay flat on the floor for gluing. I was going to coil up some extra in the larger switch opening and pull them out the top after wall is glued.

Just a thought .....

If you lay down new sheets of blue foam it will allow equal pressure on all areas and yet compress where there is a point load. When you pick up your wall there will be an imprint of the wires in the foam but the veneer side will have had the exact same pressure all over. It will also protect from small rocks and variations in the concrete. You can use the foam later in the roof so it will not be a waste.

Hmm, I might have to think about that.

Shadow Catcher wrote:Oil/petroleum will attack rubber and some plastics. Silicone such as Armorall will not. You can also use dry lubes, heck I have even used dry antiperspirant

Stick deoderant? Maybe it will keep the glue odors at bay

I might have to experiment with some dry lubes

Why not use the stuff electricians use. It goes by various nicknames - slickum and gorilla snot is what I know it by. Get it at any big box in the electrical department. Comes in quart squeeze bottles and 5 gallon buckets. My guess is a quart will do

dh
This was the spray on antiperspirant, leaves a white powder and it will not attack rubber. Talcum powder will also work, as will penetrant developer. I was having a very difficult time telling where an oil leak was coming from and picked up a can of developer from a welding supply place, it is basically talc in a can and used with visible and fluorescent dye penetrant testing.

Shadow Catcher wrote:dh
This was the spray on antiperspirant, leaves a white powder and it will not attack rubber. Talcum powder will also work, as will penetrant developer. I was having a very difficult time telling where an oil leak was coming from and picked up a can of developer from a welding supply place, it is basically talc in a can and used with visible and fluorescent dye penetrant testing.

Dualy noted, I was starting to wonder about baby powder. Might spend more time this weekend experimenting on this than building a teardrop

wannabefree wrote:Why not use the stuff electricians use. It goes by various nicknames - slickum and gorilla snot is what I know it by. Get it at any big box in the electrical department. Comes in quart squeeze bottles and 5 gallon buckets. My guess is a quart will do

Have you ever tried to pull wire out of a conduit after electricians filled it with "gorilla snot"? They don't budge.........