Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm going to skin the sides and top with thin aluminum.

I'm having difficulty finding 5' wide pieces. Where are folks finding that size?

What alloy of aluminum are you using, and how are you attaching it. How durable is mill finish .30 aluminum?

Thanks

Tackett wrote:How durable is mill finish .30 aluminum?

I would think .30 aluminum would be quite durable if not heavy and a bear to bend. (Just giving you a hard time.)

I used white .040 for my roof and it is perfect. Easy to bend and very durable. I found my 5' wide material at a local sign shop. You can also find it at trailer repair places. Your color choices may be limited but just call around and you will find it.

planovet wrote:

Tackett wrote:How durable is mill finish .30 aluminum?

I would think .30 aluminum would be quite durable if not heavy and a bear to bend. (Just giving you a hard time.)

I used white .040 for my roof and it is perfect. Easy to bend and very durable. I found my 5' wide material at a local sign shop. You can also find it at trailer repair places. Your color choices may be limited but just call around and you will find it.

.30 .030... what a decimal place worth?

Unpainted is what they want - just straight up silver.
Did you glue it down with contact cement? It's going over 2 layers of 1/8" luan.

To float or not to float, that is the question. Search and you will find compelling augments for both sides. I floated mine without any adhesive. It's just held on the edges by some staples and the trim. It worked great for me.

planovet wrote:To float or not to float, that is the question. Search and you will find compelling augments for both sides. I floated mine without any adhesive. It's just held on the edges by some staples and the trim. It worked great for me.

I haven't been able to find much on the topic. I'm thinking that my search skills suck.

I've looked through the index, and still don't see much on the topic. Could I get you to point me in the right direction?

Thanks.

Tackett, I float my AL skins...no adhesive...relying on vents, fenders lights, trim, etc. to hold it in place...I do use a couple or 3 air driven staples to hold the sides in place while installing, these staples are covered by the trim...this technique works very well and was first recommended to me by a commercial TD manufacturer...the problem with using adhesives is different expansion rates between the AL sheet and the substrate it is covering which can cause "oil caning"(bubbles under the skin)...folks have done it both ways successfully...I prefer to use this method since it eliminates a rather messy step in the build...if you do decide to use an adhesive, you may wish to lightly sand the AL to give some "tooth" for the adhesive to stick too..........................
madjack

p.s. click the search button above and enter "float AND skins" for more info...enter it EXACTLY as I have typed it.....MJ

madjack wrote:Tackett, I float my AL skins...no adhesive...relying on vents, fenders lights, trim, etc. to hold it in place...I do use a couple or 3 air driven staples to hold the sides in place while installing, these staples are covered by the trim...this technique works very well and was first recommended to me by a commercial TD manufacturer...the problem with using adhesives is different expansion rates between the AL sheet and the substrate it is covering which can cause "oil caning"(bubbles under the skin)...folks have done it both ways successfully...I prefer to use this method since it eliminates a rather messy step in the build...if you do decide to use an adhesive, you may wish to lightly sand the AL to give some "tooth" for the adhesive to stick too..........................
madjack

p.s. click the search button above and enter "float AND skins" for more info...enter it EXACTLY as I have typed it.....MJ

Thanks MadJack.

I wasn't using the term "skins". Now I'm getting the search results I need.

If you ever tear down a 'factory' trailer, they have a trick to make the skins lie flat. The skin is curled, then it is applied so that the 'curl is away from the framing. When the trim is applied, the skin stays flat due to the small amount of force of resistance.

Tackett wrote:
.30 .030... what a decimal place worth?

A couple hundred pounds!

kennyrayandersen wrote:

Tackett wrote:
.30 .030... what a decimal place worth?

A couple hundred pounds!

And more than that in $$$

madjack wrote:Tackett, I float my AL skins...no adhesive...relying on vents, fenders lights, trim, etc. to hold it in place...I do use a couple or 3 air driven staples to hold the sides in place while installing, these staples are covered by the trim...this technique works very well and was first recommended to me by a commercial TD manufacturer...

What do you use for corner trim (where the top meets the side panel)? The pieces I have are L shaped, with the long leg going on the top, and the short leg on the side.

Tackett wrote:What do you use for corner trim (where the top meets the side panel)? The pieces I have are L shaped, with the long leg going on the top, and the short leg on the side.

Not sure what MJ used but I used a insert molding that you can get at most RV stores. Comes in mill finish and white mostly. You can find inserts in many colors.

planovet wrote:

Tackett wrote:What do you use for corner trim (where the top meets the side panel)? The pieces I have are L shaped, with the long leg going on the top, and the short leg on the side.

Not sure what MJ used but I used a insert molding that you can get at most RV stores. Comes in mill finish and white mostly. You can find inserts in many colors.

Is the molding pictured easily worked around the curves with ease and without crimping, or is annealing needed? I like this option, it leaves a very clean look.

ubear7 wrote:Is the molding pictured easily worked around the curves with ease and without crimping, or is annealing needed? I like this option, it leaves a very clean look.

It took my curves with no problems, no annealing needed. I just took my time and eased it over slowly.
The lip may bow out a bit on the sharper curves but it was easily tapped back into place with a rubber mallet and a gentle hand.