Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

My head is spinning... I have read several threads now for constructing the wall using the sandwich technique but I have a few questions:

I notice that the outside wall extends past the frame to allow for the placement of the spars. Are two patterns being used to create the inside and outside walls? I was studying Mark's and Cindy's excellent Little Switerzland build photos to try and wrap my head around it.

What pattern is used to route the edge of the frame?

If one pattern is used, how do you compensate for the area between the top of roof and interior walls?

I purchased SF's guide but I am still confused on how to use patterns properly. I'm probably overthinking things, right?

Many thanks in advance.

Patrick

http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=6397

The above is the link for Steve's teardrop shop manual. Might help if you get one. It has a step by step and how to guide.

I marked my inside panels in the depth of the spars and the inside roof. The outside roof sits on top..... Oh I put the ceiling on from outside.

I too was a little confused by this. After reading the manual and trying to figure it out I think on got the general idea. I have not built my walls yet though.

1. You make the pattern of the outer profile. Cut out and router both outer skins using the pattern.

2. Use the pattern to layout the wall framing. This is where is starts getting a little confusing. The lumber on the top of the wall framing needs to be wide enough for both the roof spar support and also the roof spar spacers. Run the router over the pattern and wall assembly roof area to get a nice smooth profile on the wall framing assemblies.

3. Once the wall framing is assembled then the original pattern needs to be modified by cutting out the area that will end up being used for the roof spar supports.

4. Use the modified pattern to router the roof spar support area on the wall framing assemblies. The cut off pieces of the wall assemblies will be cut up later for roof spar spacers.

5. The outer skin and wall framing assembly can now be glued together.

6. After the outer skin and wall framing assembly have been glued the inner skin can be glued on. The inner skin does not have to be precut as you will use the router to cut the inner skin to match the wall framing assembly.

7. After the inner skin has been glued on and routered to match the wall framing assembly. You need to cut out the hatch side piece from the wall. This can be done by just cutting out the piece with a jigsaw, but would be better to use a router. You can modify the pattern again by cutting off the area where the hatch side pieces will be. Then use the pattern to router out the hatch side pieces.

I think this information is correct or atleast accurate enough to work. I do not have the manual with me at this time, but this is how I remember/interpret it.

Dan

Thanks Dan. I purchased the Guide last week and have been studying it. I think once I see the actual process it will make sense. Pictures, anyone?

Patrick

Dan did a pretty good job. My build pics are at work so I don't have access to them right now. When I get to work tomorrow I will post some pics and tell you what I did. I had to read the plans a few times to get it all down but once it clicked it went really smoothly.

More to come tomorrow.

Sandwiches rock!

Mark, Many thanks for such a well documented site. With your pix and Dan's explanation it now makes perfect sense. I'm heading to my in-Laws' house this weekend. My Father-in-Law will be pumped when he see's what I have planned. The man is 75 years old and a building machine.

I did like Dan said except for the roof framing.

Here is a picture of my 1/4" MDF template laid on top of the MDO plywood to be used as the frame:



I traced the outline and rough cut the pattern with a jigsaw. On the critical dimensions - perimeter and door openings - I re-clamped the template in place and used a router with a pattern bit for the finished edges. This is it after the "holes" were cut:



I built my roof like some build a hatch. Using the same template, I cut two 1 1/2" deep, longitudinal "ribs" from 3/4" plywood for the perimeter. These were clamped to the sidewalls and 1x2 poplar spars were cut to fit and installed. I then removed the assembly so I could apply the interior plywood and hull liner (marine carpet.) This picture is the roof framing upside down on my bench awaiting plywood.

aggie79 your pic says a 1000 words In the compost class we teach I show your pic It's show lay out very well thank you

a stick framed sandwich wall. 1x2's and 3/4" insulation