Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

If the rain and blimps all stay away tomorrow, I'm gonna install my spars. I bit the bullet and bought the poplar--2 pieces for each spar laminated for a 1 and 1/2 inch square spar.

I originally planned on using hangers, like Bruce, but I can't seem to find them in this size. One or two more stores to check, so maybe I'll get lucky, but...

I didn't cut out the interior skin per Cubby plans to "hold" the spars, but I DO have 3/4 framing on my edges, which is NOT per Cubby plans. (You know that edging--it's right next to the ground wires that I forgot to install.)

Is it okay to just screw in from the outside with nice long deck screws? I was considering using some small L brackets on each side of the spar too, but I just don't know if it's even necessary. Also, the little blocks of wood that will eventually be glued and help secure the interior roof to the spars can ALSO further secure the spars to the side walls.

Whattya think? Ooopsss.......gotta run.

I see another blimp coming.

That's what I did. You'll want to use plenty of good glue and predrill. I made a little plywood "jig", which is a fancy word for a template. The purpose was to ensure that the same spacing was used for each spar hole. It was a 2" x 3" piece of plywood with two holes drilled in it (top and bottom) with another little piece of plywood glued/screwed to the top to create a "T". When you hang the upper part of the T on the edge of the sidewall, the two holes should be near vertical. On my 1 1/2" spars. I had the two holes 1/2" from the top and 1" from the top, to distribute across the spar. This allows you to predrill both the spar and the sidewall and have the same spacing every time. It also allows you to use longer deck screws with less worry about coming out the side of the spar.

Does this make sense?

For once, Fornesto--it makes TOTAL sense to me. And I'm glad you mentioned the glue--I hadn't even thought about using it where the spar meets the wall.

Since my interior skins are in, though, I think I'm going to go with Titebond. The thought of that poly stuff dripping down my varnished birch doesn't appeal to me.

Ira,

If your outer skins are not attached yet, You can drill through fromt the outside and into the end of the spars. Then use nice long deck screws and the titebond to hold them in place. That should be enough to hold almost anything together securely. I think the poly would work better, but I agree that it is not worth the chance of having it run down the interior skins and creating a stain. You could always make some little hangers out of aluminum or some thin sheet metal.

Remember to take pics of what ever you decide to do.

I got back to work on mine today and have spend about 3 hours figuring out the 'footwell' on my trailer. It is not the same as the one that Kevin used in the plans, so, I have had to figure out how to do it and get things to be watertight (I hope).

And I am sure that you will figure out this problem, just like the other ones that you have encountered to this point.

Kerry

First - I hope everyone is safe - that is real close. Too close.

If you are worried about the glue dripping down the inside edge I would suggest that you put some painters tape to the outside of the spar. And have a damp rag ready (since you are using Titebond) to wipe off the big mess.

Have fun..................

BILL

BILLYL wrote:First - I hope everyone is safe - that is real close. Too close.

If you are worried about the glue dripping down the inside edge I would suggest that you put some painters tape to the outside of the spar. And have a damp rag ready (since you are using Titebond) to wipe off the big mess.

Have fun..................

BILL

Thanks, Bill--that makes sense. And thanks for applauding my continued presence on this planet.

I can't argue about the integrity of Titebond versus poly, but I used the Titebond last week, just a little, and it was a PLEASURE compared to the other stuff. I actually finished the day with my caucasian hands still intact.

And Kerry--nope. The outer skins go on last. just for that reason. So no problem.

But what do you mean when you refer to a footwell? Are you talking about the galley walls, where your feet would stick under while sleeping?

What's weird about THAT area for me is that my wife and I are so short, we could literally sleep with our heads and upper bodies in that area, with feet facing the front of the TD.

Ira,

Actually, if you look at the Cubby plans, it is called an Optional Floor Hatch (page 20) in mine. I just called it a footwell, because that is what my wife wants it for. If we get stuck in there on a rainy day, we can roll back the mattress and open the floor for more space to sit up. I would have gladly done without it, but we all know who is the boss!!!

Kerry

Okay--floor hatch I understand.

I blew right past that feature; didn't bother. It's supposed to help sitting up on the porta-potty and give you a little storage space.

But I have a big truck and I'm gonna make my wife go in the woods anyway.

I measured each spar in its final location before I cut them to length. You can keep your walls at a constant 48" width that way. Makes it easier to install the roof. I don't know about anyine else, but I have a really hard time with straight cuts.
Bruce
P.S. I posting this from my tear. I finished the interior 12V plugs. Stereos going too.

Bruce, Where did you get the spar hangers? Is there a web site? Jim

bledsoe3 wrote:Bruce, Where did you get the spar hangers? Is there a web site? Jim

Yup:
Home Depot Look in the section that has joist hangers.
Bruce

The one near me, or Lowes, doesn't have a 1 1/2 square. Couldn't find it on their web sites either. And for us, it has to be exactly that dimension to be hidden by the interior ceiling.

I have problems making straight cuts TOO, but I did my best.

Anyway, too late for me. Spars are up sans hangers.