Question on Formica

[Classic Finn]

Are there any tricks to the trade sort of speak in cutting, gluing formica? Never dealt with the product but I have possible intentions of using it for the galley thus the question.

Any advice given will be appreciated.

[steve smoot]

Hi Finn,

It is rather easy to apply plastic laminate.

First, you would have the plastic laminate cut just a bit larger than the substrate.

Next, I always cut strips of plastic to the exact width for the edge banding. You will want to cover the edges of your counter first and then proceed to top surface. If you plan to use a metal edge, you would skip this step.

Then cover the back side of the plastic and the upside of the substrate with contact cement. Let the glue set as per product specifications. Usually, until it is "tacky" to touch.

I place small strips of wood on the substrate to keep the cement from making contact until you are ready.

Then, make sure the plastic is centered up correctly, and starting at one end slowly remove the first wood strip allowing contact.

keep removing the wood strips one at a time until the plastic sheet is in place.

You should use a laminate roller to make sure all air bubbles are out.

You can use a laminate router to trim the plastic flush along the edges.

That's pretty much it.

[prohandyman]

Heikki
Laminate requires absolute smooth surface to adhere to. Even the smallest imperfection will "imprint" thru to the top finish. It can be glued to almost any surface, but wood is the preferred choice. A very good grade of contact cement is usually required, as sometimes it will come loose around the edges if a lesser quality glue is used. Here in the states, the preferred wood choice used in homes is particle board, which is essentually wood fibers glued together to form a hard and straight panel. I have glued laminate to several types of plywood, but always careful to fill any imperfections with wood filler and sand smooth before attaching the laminate. And, if using contact cement, after coating both surfaces and waiting the prescribed amount of setting time, place several dowel rods ( 1/4" - 1/2" dia.) along the length of the wood surface and lay the laminate on top of the dowels. Align the laminate as close as you can, and remove the dowels one at a time, pressing down on the laminate as you go. This whole process allows you to get the laminate where you want it, as it will be very difficult to place it without the dowels accurately. Once contact cement sets, and you touch another surface to it that also has cement on it, it is instantly permanent. And sometimes in the wrong placement. Then you can use a Flush trim router bit to trim the edges, and finish the edges as you like.
I probably have some pics of this process if you would like to see them.

[afreegreek]

the best contact cement is called Sta-put.. it's a spray on solvent base product. it comes in small and large spray cans and 5 gallon buckets you put in your own gun.. it's fast, clean, and it is a lot stronger than water base. if you want extra bonding strength, you can tape off an inch and a half around the perimeter of the substrate and the laminate and any other openings (sink etc) and use titebond type glue there. just tape the edges down with masking tape..

if you can vacuum bag or otherwise clamp the panel you can use titebond for the whole thing..

[S. Heisley]

Since you live in a sometimes colder climate than many of the rest of us, one that I don't see is that the colder the weather, the more brittle the Formica/Wilsonart will be. It should be kept at 65 degrees or above for a few days before you try to cut it, especially if you are using the score/snap method. Borrow the kitchen rolling pin and roll over the top of the Formica, to help the glued Formica settle down on its prepared surface. Light tapping with a hammer (with a board between the hammer and the surface) can help settle in the side strips but too hard of a 'tap' can make the surface crack. (I wasted some Formica, learning. )

[Classic Finn]

Thank You everyone for taking the time in posting. I read each and everyones advice and input 2 or 3 times each.

Ive never done this so I admit Im a little nervous. And here its not cheap for the formica itself.

We found some nice formica that is somewhat red to a burgundy that would look very nice with the mahogany. And also to match the vinyl.

Here,s the website in English. http://www.formicaiki.fi/publish/site/e ... /home.html

And here is one of the colors. http://www.formicaiki.fi/publish/site/e ... =ProductID

These colors look much nicer in reality than what they show on the web.

Thanks again folks.

[deceiver]

All good advice. Be sure to let the glue dry to a cloudy appearance before making contact with the other glued surface. It sounds strange but the bond is very strong if done that way.

No one mentioned finishing much afterwards. Two ways to do this. One is to use a router with a flush bit bearing. The other that works well with a little elbow grease is to use a large flat file on the edge.

[Classic Finn]

All good advice. Be sure to let the glue dry to a cloudy appearance before making contact with the other glued surface. It sounds strange but the bond is very strong if done that way.

No one mentioned finishing much afterwards. Two ways to do this. One is to use a router with a flush bit bearing. The other that works well with a little elbow grease is to use a large flat file on the edge.

Thank You Indeed. This is Finnish Ply that I plan on covering with the formica. Also I do have some practice with the router now.