Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Has anybody tried electric linear actuators instead of gas struts on the hatch? I know you would be in trouble if you lost power, but it would be cool to be able to press a button on a remote and have your hatch open up on its own.

Len did that on his Slumbercoach...

Len will have to chip in with a picture...

never mind, I found a video...

http://s26.photobucket.com/player.swf?r ... &os=1&ap=1

Mike...

Any idea of cost... compared to gas?

I'm not sure Len's is a linear actuator. We toyed with the idea but thought I would need two and all the control stuff got too complicated.... You can run them on 12vdc. You might check on marine stuff to see if you can get something that will work for you.

michaelwpayton wrote:Any idea of cost... compared to gas?

About double to tripple, depending on quality of actuators and struts. They have to run the same speed or one side will lift faster and could put the hatch in a bind.

mikeschn wrote:Len did that on his Slumbercoach...

Len will have to chip in with a picture...

never mind, I found a video...

http://s26.photobucket.com/player.swf?r ... &os=1&ap=1

Mike...

Looks cool, but that doesn't look like a linear actuator. I'm curious how it finishes closing, it looks like it finished its travel before the hatch was completely closed

Miriam C. wrote::thinking: I'm not sure Len's is a linear actuator. We toyed with the idea but thought I would need two and all the control stuff got too complicated.... You can run them on 12vdc. You might check on marine stuff to see if you can get something that will work for you.

They are common in the kustom car world, and wiring up the controlls is nothing I can't handle, just wondering if anybody had done it, and if they where pleased, or thought of them as usless crap. Getting them tweaked in could be a lot more work, as I will not able to use one in the center as my sink is going there, at least for now it is

I reseached them for a friend and he bought one to use to remotely control the trolling function of a transmission on a commercial fishing boat. All it takes to control it is a dual pole, double throw, center off switch. You could also wire in limit switches to stop it at the right up and down postions. He was very happy with the results. Pricey though.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php ... f02a80fc76

Cheers,

Gus

I'll just keep lifting!

eamarquardt wrote:I reseached them for a friend and he bought one to use to remotely control the trolling function of a transmission on a commercial fishing boat. All it takes to control it is a dual pole, double throw, center off switch. You could also wire in limit switches to stop it at the right up and down postions. He was very happy with the results. Pricey though.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php ... f02a80fc76

Cheers,

Gus

Sorry Gus, but that isn't trick, you need a relay, limit switches, a DPDT switch AND the remote controll unit... I won't go into wiring details here, but whats the point of going elecrtic if not wireless?

I had originally planned on doing the tongue box lid, hatch, stabalizer doors and cabin doors wireless, but decided to keep it simple, its a TD, not a low rider. I'm still toying with the hatch though.

dh wrote:Sorry Gus, but that isn't trick, you need a relay, limit switches, a DPDT switch AND the remote controll unit... I won't go into wiring details here, but whats the point of going elecrtic if not wireless?

I had originally planned on doing the tongue box lid, hatch, stabalizer doors and cabin doors wireless, but decided to keep it simple, its a TD, not a low rider. I'm still toying with the hatch though.

Apparently, you are not familiar with the KISS principle!

My dump trailer uses a mechanical off road jack. I have been to the dump numerous times to see folks with the cool/trick hydraulic jacking systems unloading their trailers by hand because they haven't maintained the electric/hydraulic systems.

If I were using a linear actuator I wouldn't need a remote controll unit, limit switches, relays, a flux capacitor, or turbocharger!

I want to see the schematic, trouble shooting diagram, spare parts list, and spare parts suppliers when you're finished with your install.

Not to spoil your fun but have you considered using a stick to prop open your hatch?

Have fun!

Cheers,

Gus


Have fun

Like this guy's TD... He opens the doors and galley hatch with the remote. No handles on the doors, or hatch! I don't remember his name but, probably at the IRG now with the 5 wide group. One of my favorite TD builds. There are redundant safe guards if the battery goes dead. He has a few secret wires that are accessible if needed.

dh wrote:

eamarquardt wrote:I reseached them for a friend and he bought one to use to remotely control the trolling function of a transmission on a commercial fishing boat. All it takes to control it is a dual pole, double throw, center off switch. You could also wire in limit switches to stop it at the right up and down postions. He was very happy with the results. Pricey though.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php ... f02a80fc76

Cheers,

Gus

Sorry Gus, but that isn't trick, you need a relay, limit switches, a DPDT switch AND the remote controll unit... I won't go into wiring details here, but whats the point of going elecrtic if not wireless?

I had originally planned on doing the tongue box lid, hatch, stabalizer doors and cabin doors wireless, but decided to keep it simple, its a TD, not a low rider. I'm still toying with the hatch though.

and Mike works with a guy who does this all day. Way too much trouble and 3-4 hundred dollars by the time you get two of them in sync. If I couldn't lift the hatch or wanted the cool factor it would be worth it.

Genarally speaking I consider one's requiring a "cool factor" or needing "instant gratification" without a genuine practical need a personality defect.

But as I am in charge of my rules I can alter the rules at will. I will have a bumper (although it will probably never serve any purpose) and it will easily fold down so you don't bang you shins. Most of the time I shop mercilessly for a good deal, buy second hand, or simply scounge but occasionally I pay the "I want it now price" but only after ensuring I'm can't get it in a reasonable time frame cheaper.

I think an exception to the "cool factor" rule is acceptable for remote door locks and remote contronlled linear actuators as long as "alternate plan B" provisions are provided in the event of a system failure.

Have fun.

Cheers,

Gus

I've mentally toyed with the idea of using the spring loaded hinges like used on cars 20 years ago. If they could counter-balance a Lincoln's sheet metal; wood should be easy.