Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi All,

I was just wondering whether anyone has tried the Rustoleum marine paint? It claims to be made for wood and fiberglass.

I've been perusing some of the boat-builder sites and it seems to be a real hit with them. Some claim that they were amazed with the results they got with it, (above the waterline, of course).

I've checked prices and, primer and paint total, will be about $150, (figured if applied liberally). My TTT is 10' long, 5' wide and 4' high, so I'm figuring approx. 200 sq. feet, two coats of primer and two coats for the finish. I was just looking for a one-step solution. I'll be glassing the seams and the roof before I apply the finish.

I haven't seen any posts from anyone who's tried it. If any of you have, or if you have any knowledge of it, please let me know. I'm about worn out and gray matter deficient with all the research I've been doing into finishes, (not that I had a surplus of gray matter to start with).

Any information would be greatly appreciated. Hope everyone's having a great weekend.

Brian

I didnt use the marine paint, but I did use the Rustoleum High Performance Enamel. I'm happy with the results so far. If you end up using the marine paint, keep us posted on the results!

You might want to check with the manufacturer and see if a primer is required if you are going over a good bed of epoxy on wood. You could roll the entire trailer with epoxy prior to painting...gives good water protection. Might be able to cut out the primer. Typically, if you do any bondo or fillers, that needs to be primed, but you can shoot paint directly over epoxy if it's prepped properly. I've got 2 boats and at least 2 woody tears done like that...Paint systems vary however, but it might be worth a call to find out. Doug

Thanks Guys,

I sent them an email yesterday to get some additional information. I'm hoping to hear from them soon.

If what I've read is true, I'll be using it. It's a far cry cheaper than Petit or any of the other marine paints I've found. I figure that if the wooden boat builder's like it, there must be something to it. A wooden boat is certainly going to see a whole lot more water than a camper.

Anyway, I'll let you know when I hear back from Rustoleum. Hopefully, my search is over.

Thanks again for the replies.

Brian

Nosty wrote:If what I've read is true, I'll be using it. It's a far cry cheaper than Petit or any of the other marine paints I've found.
Brian

It's an entirely different type of paint so it's not an apples to apples comparison as they say, which is why it's cheaper. I'm not saying it's bad paint or won't work. Just saying it's not the same type of paint that you are comparing it to in cost.

Rustoleum marine paint is a "modified" alkyd enamel while paints like Pettit and Interlux (their one part paints) is a polyurethane paint.

Here's the info on the rustoleum paint.

http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/tds/ ... 201207.pdf

I've used both Interlux and Pettit paints with good succes on boats and my last teardrop. It won't seal gaps so make sure you glass the seams or however you plan to handle that and seal the wood etc....

Here's the info on the Pettite paint you are most likely comparing it to.

http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare/pr ... 310606.pdf

You just missed a big sale at Jamestown Distributors (the biggest boat paint distributor) on both Interlux and Pettit paint and free shipping

I don't know about Rustoleum but with the Pettite Easypoxy the info says about 160sq. foot of coverage from a quart and a quart goes for about $30 for both Interlux and Pettite paint. I undercoted mine (with the appropriate Pettite undercoat) over MDO which is already made for paint with a resin impregnated paper on the face of the plywood made for paint and I probably could have got that or more.

Thanks, Nathan. That just goes to show you that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. I'm totally lost with this finish situation. There are so many different avenues to go up, and I'm having a heck of a time deciding on which one.


I priced the Rustoleum marine paint at the Home Depot. They're two-pack, two quarts, marine primer is $27. That's what got me checking out the wooden boat sites.

Well, back to the drawing board.

Thanks again for the information. I really appreciate it.

Have a great week.

Brian

You could still use it. I just never have and wanted to be sure when you are comparing prices that you are comparing that same thing.

I don't know much about it.

A trailer is not a boat. I seen good pant jobs with evercoat 713 feather fill G2 and $32oo a gal Rustoleum. on lots of stage sets http://carpainting.wetpaint.com/page/Roller+Method arehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUYJZHGgiFceven

A trailer is not a boat but if you are talking about topside paint (and not bottom paint) the service they will see is much alike and the surfaces they are painting are the same as a teardrop, either plain wood, fiberglassed wood etc...

I concede. The choices are just too many. I called Raka this morning and ordered the epoxy and all the trimmings. Once it's ready for paint, I'm going with the Rustoleum marine enamel. Weeks of research and all I got was a headache. There are just too many choices, so I'm going with the tried and true. It's amazing. All the intricacies involved in building the TTT and the only real conundrum comes along when you're talking about finishes.

Thanks, everyone, for your responses. I do appreciate it.

Have a fantastic week.

Brian

Just to give everyone a heads up, I received a response from Rustoleum regarding the use of their marine paint over epoxy.

According to their email, they have not tested their marine paint over epoxy, (if you can imagine that? What the heck do they think boats are sealed with?), and, therefore, can not recommend their marine paint over epoxy. It does say fiberglass and wood on the can, but I can't imagine why it can't be used over epoxy.

Anyway, just wanted to share the information.

Have a great weekend, everyone.

Brian

Nosty wrote:I concede. The choices are just too many. I called Raka this morning and ordered the epoxy and all the trimmings. Once it's ready for paint, I'm going with the Rustoleum marine enamel. Weeks of research and all I got was a headache. There are just too many choices, so I'm going with the tried and true. It's amazing. All the intricacies involved in building the TTT and the only real conundrum comes along when you're talking about finishes.

Thanks, everyone, for your responses. I do appreciate it.

Have a fantastic week.

Brian

I am going to steal all your hard work, and hopefully avoid the headache!

Can you review?
What will you be doing?

Step one: Raw wood
Step two: ?
Step three: ?

Hi H-Balm,

I've finally settled on three coats of Raka epoxy, (using the non-blushing hardener), over the bare wood with the seams sealed with 3" fiberglass tape, then a marine primer and two or three coats of marine topside paint. I'm still debating on the topside paint after that email from Rustoleum, but the headache's gone now that I know what I want. Now I'm just comparing the different marine paints for the best choice, (but one that won't cost $200 per ounce).

Hope this helps. Anything to save someone else from pulling their hair out.

Good luck,
Brian

OK, talk about complete confusion. Here's the first email I got from Rustoleum regarding whether you'll need a primer between epoxy and their marine paint:

RustOleum File Number : 237383
Open Date: 9/14/2010 12:20:34 PM
-----------------------------------------------------
ANSWER:

Thank you for your recent e-mail. Sorry for the delay. We do not do outside testing with our product. Priming would be an excellent idea under our marine paint. Again, we did not test it over an epoxy resin and cannot guarantee the adhesion.

Thank you
Armando


Then I got this one:

RustOleum File Number : 237383
Open Date: 9/14/2010 12:20:34 PM
-----------------------------------------------------
ANSWER:

Thank you for your recent e-mail.
We apologize for the delay in this response but your e-mail was not properly routed by our system.

I do not believe that you would need to prime the surface, however the epoxy should be scuffed up lightly in order to provide good adhesion to the surface.
You can use 220-grit sandpaper and then just make sure that the surface is clean and the Marine Coating should adhere well.


Sincerely,
Jason K.

I think they need to get their facts straight.


Brian

Sounds like Armando was affraid to give any advice!