Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hey all,

My first post, so don't beat me too bad. I'm in the planning stages right now, and will begin construction next month based on the Cubby plans. However, I'll be using a Red Trailer to make it a 5x, rather than the 4x Harbor Freight.

What I'd like to do is bring the sides of the tear down over the trailer frame to hide it from view on the side. I've decided that I personally like the lower, sleeker design. Has anyone had any luck with this? Could it be as simple as extending the aluminum skin, or should I anticipate framing.

Thanks in advance.... Ben

Ben, that's a good question to post! I think it is a totally personal design decision. No way is "better" than the other. I personally think a tear looks more complete if the frame is not showing. I've heard people comment that seeing the trailer gives the tear a visual base to ride on. I think it's entirely up to you and what you expect to see when you look at the profile of your tear. Structurally, it makes absolutely no difference in my opinion................but then you'll find lots of opinions on this forum.

I personally like the frame hidden, and that is how I am building mine. The one thing that may determine how you do it (if you decide to), is how much clearance you have between the tires and the frame rails. If you have enough clearance, you can bring the walls all of the way down. If the clearance is minimal, set the side walls on top of the frame, but bring the aluminum down to cover the frame (just make sure that you alow for it when you build your side walls).

My frame is recessed into the body. I'm sorry I don't have any pics. My frame was welded up and I spec'd the axle width. Like you, I like the looks.

Steve H made his with the aluminum extended past the frame. Check out his pics in the hall of fame.

If I were doing mine again, I'd hide the frame....

Ben.....Junkman has real good luck with things hanging low, ask about the VW.....sorry junkman, couldn't resist I was thinking also about making a lower side package on my next tear, My frame on this one sits inboard of the trailer so it isn't visible. My fenders however hang below the bottom edge. I wouldn't do it however if it means sacrificing any height in the tear, you're going to want that a lot more than the "ground effects" of the skirt. You may need to widen the ply prior to doing that. Doug Hodder

doug hodder wrote:Ben.....Junkman has real good luck with things hanging low, ask about the VW.....sorry junkman, couldn't resist

No problem Doug. Got the Bug torn apart, the oil pan is at the welders shop (I can't weld aluminum). Hopefully it will be back on the road tomorrow. Luckily, we think it can be welded instead of having to replace it (about $200 for a new one).

Just to give you an idea how low my trailer is going to be, notice I had to step the tounge up, even though the ball on the VW's hitch is about 4" lower than a normal hitch! I used a torsional axel with the arms pointed up 11 degrees.



I built it out of used steel, and haven't had a chance to clean it up and paint it yet, probably this weekend.

After I mount my axle this weekend I'm going to verify I have the clearence between the frame and the tire. If I do, I'm going to cover the frame. I plan to weld tabs to the bottom of the frame that stick out 1/2 inch for the side walls to rest on. This will take the shear force off the screws that hold them to the deck. Subject to change of course.

i dropped my sides and front to hide the frame. i build a 5' x 10' i build the fame 4'-9" x 9'-10" my walls are 1 1/2" thick and the front wall is 2" thick. the only part of the frame you see is the rear. by hiding the frame makes for a good looking teardrop

I covered my frame by extending the aluminum siding over the side of the frame. By doing it this way, the wood wall weight is left on top of the frame and there are no shear loads on the joint. It also eliminates the potential for interferance between the side of the wall and the wheel/tire. An additional benefit is you get the maximum interior space from your four foot wide plywood.

Did you secure the aluminum to the frame, or is it just hanging there?

Mike...

Mike,

My aluminum is not secured to the frame, but to the wood just above the frame. The aluminum is .060", so it has a lot of "body" to it. I just ran a bead of silicone seal at the junction of the aluminum and steel frame to keep water out.

My teardrop's body is longer than the frame and has a 4" overhang in the front and a 8" overhang in the back. There is a 2" piece of wood at the ends of the trailer frame that is used to secure the front and back aluminum roll.

How about this idea? I forgot now who's plans gave me the idea. I want an interior width of 60"-61" for a queen sized mattress in my Squidget. I saw one plan where the builder bolted a 2x4 to each side rail, front to back. With this method, you can leave it off where the tires would rub and build a 1 1/2" deep wheel well (the actual width of the 2x4) to cover the break. I plan on doing this as it will allow a wood base to fasten my side skin to down to the bottom of the frame. After adding in the side framing and inside skin, I shoul have just a little over 61" inside width. I'll add this idea to my frame plans as soon as I can get around to it. Oh yeah, I still plan on building the frame myself after I get some professional advice on certain structural aspects.

Dale

I plan to cover my frame also. I started by welding a series of brackets to the frame. The first was to the inside of the frame rails to secure the floor to.



The second was under the side rails for support of the side walls. I used 3/8 X 1 1/2 carriage bolts thru the floor to the inner brackets. I sunk the head using a forstner bit. The side walls will sit on top of the under side brackets and attach to a 3/4 stud that will sit ontop of the floor and eventually the inner wall. The under rail bracket is hard to see (it's painted black). It extends 1/2 inch out from the frame. It is on the bottom right of the picture.


Do you think this will work?