Page 1 of 3

exterior paint

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 8:39 am
by johnhu
i use a paint ,that is not mentioned here.it is ellis paint.it is fornulated for boats and farm equip.i buy it at alocal ace hardware.47.00 a gallon. sray,brush,rollar all look good.google up,,ellis paints.

PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:58 pm
by Nosty
Hi John,

I'm no expert, and I don't have any longevity on mine yet, but I researched the wooden boat builder sites in search of a good, reasonably priced, paint for my TTT.

I've got four coats of epoxy over the entire outer skin and was looking for something that would last.

I found great reviews for the Benjamin Moore M22, (now P22), urethane enamel.

I went into the local Benjamin Moore dealer and talked to the owner. M22 is almost the exact same thing, (ingredient wise), as many of the marine topside paints and it's around $30 per gallon.

The owner of the local store was really knowledgeable about the P22. Many of the local factories buy it to paint their machinery. It's UV protected and has a urethane base. I bought two gallons and did the cut-in on my TTT today. It goes on really easy with a foam roller.

The best part is that it can be tinted to the color of your choice and I didn't need a primer over the epoxy. I just had to rough up the finish to give the epoxy a tooth for the paint to adhere to.

Just some food for thought. Good luck. :thumbsup:

Brian

PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 2:08 pm
by cracker39
Anyone going to have their trailer in the water for extended periods of time? I hope not!!!

I got a report by phone recently from the buyer of the Squidget I built in early '06. Except for a spot low in the rear near where I put in an outside cargo door and water may have gotten into the plywood, the paint is holding up very well. I put on one coat of epoxy (2 or 3 coats on plywood edges) and primed it with Zinsser Bullseye 123 and painted with Glidden latex porch and deck enamel. If paint is tough enough to be walked on for years, it should be tough enough for a trailer exterior. And latex can stretch and shrink with temperature changes, being more resistant to cracking and peeling than oil based paints.

JMHO :thinking:

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 12:28 pm
by SkipperSue
I used a 2 part epoxy paint on mine. This paint is super tough. I had a guy looking at my trailer down at Hunting Island state park and he thought that it was a laminate material. I used Sherwin Williams Industrial and Marine finish. You mix equal parts and paint it on. You have about 2 hours before it sets up.

Image

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 3:55 pm
by cracker39
Skipper, How much does that paint cost and where did you find it?

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 8:13 pm
by SkipperSue
Hello Dale,

I'm afraid I don't know the cost of it, it was from my old job. They didn't ever use it and it sat around for a few years till I took it home. I had to stir it up a long time!! :?

I do know that it came from the Sherwin Williams store here in Greenville, SC. I think there are Sherwin Williams stores all over? This paint smells really bad, verry strong while wet.

Tile Clad HS

PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:24 pm
by Riken
After numerous searches and trying to decide on an exterior finish. I liked how SkipperSue's unit looked like. I also was interested in the super tough part as well as the not look like wood part. My wife wasnt crazy about the camper looking homebuilt so I decided to look into the Sherwin Williams Tile Clad HS. I contacted my local Sherwin William Industrial store and he said this is stocked at most Sherwin Williams Retail stores. In fact my local store has 16 gallons of A and B on the shelf. It is a lil pricey (140 bux total) and can mixed in any color (although I stayed with White). According to the data sheet this is some good stuff and durable. I am hoping to paint this weekend. I have laid down 3 coats of the GPW waterproof mix and will apply at least 2 coats with Glidden Gripper and then 2 coats of this epoxy paint. Don't know if I need to apply clear coat since it says Gloss Hardener but will see what happens. I will post pics after paint. Got a camp date weekend May 13 so I gotta hurry!

Image

Build #2 is much better than build #1. I just followed Mike signature line on this one

maybe this will work?

Image

PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:38 pm
by mikeschn
My signature line?

:thumbsup: Makes sense to me!!!

Mike...

PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 7:14 am
by planovet
mikeschn wrote:My signature line?

:thumbsup: Makes sense to me!!!


I concur! :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2011 11:25 pm
by dh
Anything on the UV protection that paint offers? Without good UV protection your epoxy will deteriorate.

PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2011 6:36 pm
by greekspeedoman
I used Interlux products. It was easy to use, self leveling, and easy to apply. Prices are around $30 / pint. I used most of 4 pints for my 5'x10' (3 coats over it all). It has teflon in it and everything falls off of it. I applied it over two coats of Interlux primer ($20 / gal) and 4 layers of fiberglass epoxy.

It is made for boats. UV stable and I've had no problems in 4 years. It also comes in a bunch of colors.

read more here: http://www.overlandtrailer.com/body-external

Image

PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2011 9:26 pm
by dh
greekspeedoman wrote:I used Interlux products. It was easy to use, self leveling, and easy to apply. Prices are around $30 / pint. I used most of 4 pints for my 5'x10' (3 coats over it all). It has teflon in it and everything falls off of it. I applied it over two coats of Interlux primer ($20 / gal) and 4 layers of fiberglass epoxy.

It is made for boats. UV stable and I've had no problems in 4 years. It also comes in a bunch of colors.

read more here: http://www.overlandtrailer.com/body-external


How did you apply it? Brush? Roller? Spray it on? Is it truely self leveling or do you have to tip it? I've seen West System epoxy advertised in catalogs as self leveling :lol:

here is my initial resul

PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 12:30 am
by Riken
this paint is thick and syrupy and strong but wow . This is the first coat over my primed surface. you can see the REFLECTION of the ac in it. this was after its dry. this paint is sticky immediately after applied and dries to touch before you know it
Image

as far as the UV protection I would say were Good
Here is the link to sherwin williams and the data pages
http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26226%3Aproduct-6857

here are the recommend uses:
For use over prepared substrates such as steel, galvanizing, and
concrete in industrial environments.
• Laboratories
• Lavatories
• Masonry surfaces
• Power plants
• Offshore structures
• Schools
• Storage tanks
• Marine applications
• Structural & support steel
• Clean rooms
• Institutional kitchens
• Nuclear Power Plants
• DOE Nuclear Fuel Facilities • Nuclear fabrication shops
• DOE Nuclear Weapons Facilities
• Chemical processing equipment
• Institutional & commercial wall coating
• Suitable for use in USDA inspected facilities
• Conforms to AWWA D 102, OCS #5
• Acceptable for use in high performance architectural applications.
• Conforms with MPI # 77
• This product meets specific design requirements for non-safety
related nuclear plant applications in Level II, III and Balance ofPlant, and DOE nuclear facilities*.
* Nuclear qualifications are NRC license specific to the facility.

I would say you can wedge camper, ttt or teardrop somewhere in that mix :D i was totally impressed either that or was inundated with the fumes :?

Re: here is my initial resul

PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 11:28 pm
by atahoekid
Riken wrote:this paint is thick and syrupy and strong but wow . This is the first coat over my primed surface. you can see the REFLECTION of the ac in it. this was after its dry. this paint is sticky immediately after applied and dries to touch before you know it


here are the recommend uses:
For use over prepared substrates such as steel, galvanizing, and
concrete in industrial environments.
• Laboratories
• Lavatories
• Masonry surfaces
• Power plants
• Offshore structures
• Schools
• Storage tanks
• Marine applications
• Structural & support steel
• Clean rooms
• Institutional kitchens
• Nuclear Power Plants
• DOE Nuclear Fuel Facilities • Nuclear fabrication shops
• DOE Nuclear Weapons Facilities
• Chemical processing equipment
• Institutional & commercial wall coating
• Suitable for use in USDA inspected facilities
• Conforms to AWWA D 102, OCS #5
• Acceptable for use in high performance architectural applications.
• Conforms with MPI # 77
• This product meets specific design requirements for non-safety
related nuclear plant applications in Level II, III and Balance ofPlant, and DOE nuclear facilities*.
* Nuclear qualifications are NRC license specific to the facility.

I would say you can wedge camper, ttt or teardrop somewhere in that mix :D i was totally impressed either that or was inundated with the fumes :?


I was interested in the paint too but could not find where they addressed the UV issue. I also asked at the local Sherwin Williams store but felt like I was getting smoke blown up my a$$. Marine paint is looking like the way to go

PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 12:15 am
by Riken
yeah i got the feeling that customer service is not the highest on sherwin williams list.

If you download and open the data sheet there are some ASTM tests results. Says exterior durability 1 year at 45 degree south - says Excellent chalks? I am not sure what that means but I am sure someone on the forum can decipher the data sheet. This stuff is seems pretty tuff. I have no choice but to roll with it and I believe it will hold up fine, Just my initial coat and it is very durable, Going to start second coat tomorrow

I have the part A in white and the part B gloss hardener