hurricane hinge question

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hurricane hinge question

Postby LDK » Fri Oct 01, 2010 6:35 am

On the better than hurricane hinge do the sidewalls still need to be trimmed down some for the hatch lid??? :thinking: If it does I was thinking I could trim it down first before I attach the side walls to the floor.
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Postby madjack » Fri Oct 01, 2010 6:45 am

...yes...you need to trim down the side wall approximately 3/8th to accommodate the skin/trim/seals...much easier to do on the work bench instead of in the air...........
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Postby aggie79 » Fri Oct 01, 2010 11:03 am

Larry,

Like Madjack says, it easier to make the cuts on the bench than when the walls are up. That good advice goes for just about anything on your build.

But...since I seem to do the things the hard way on my build, I cut the notches with the walls up. I used a 1/4" offset rather than 3/8" and while it is a little snug, it seems to be okay.

Related to your other router posts, a router is an easy way to do this. It will require you to purchase a rabbet bit in addition to a pattern/template bit.

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After you have your sidewalls cut to the profile, lay out where you want the offset to be. The rabbet bit sets the offset - 3/8", 1/4" or whatever is needed. Adjust the height (or depth) of the bit so that the bit is set at about half the thickness of the sidewall. Then make one pass with the router and rabbet bit to cut a notch or rabbet.

Image

Then put the template bit in the router and, with the bearing of the template bit in the rabbet or notch, remove the the remainder of the material.

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Tom
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Postby grant whipp » Fri Oct 01, 2010 12:17 pm

Depends on how you sheath your galley lid ... if you're sheathing it with 1/4" (two layers of 1/8" is what I recommend if your do), then yeah, 3/8" is appropriate ... if you are sheathing with 1/8", then a 1/4" relief is more than enough (I typically go a "fat" 1/8", more like 3/16"). Then again, it also depends on what kind of weather seal you plan to use ... my above recommendations are based on using my Hatch Seal.

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Postby LDK » Fri Oct 01, 2010 7:33 pm

grant whipp wrote:Depends on how you sheath your galley lid ... if you're sheathing it with 1/4" (two layers of 1/8" is what I recommend if your do), then yeah, 3/8" is appropriate ... if you are sheathing with 1/8", then a 1/4" relief is more than enough (I typically go a "fat" 1/8", more like 3/16"). Then again, it also depends on what kind of weather seal you plan to use ... my above recommendations are based on using my Hatch Seal.

CHEERS!

Grant


Hey grant, I'll be ordering the hinge along with some other stuff soon.
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Postby LDK » Fri Oct 01, 2010 7:42 pm

aggie79 wrote:Larry,

Like Madjack says, it easier to make the cuts on the bench than when the walls are up. That good advice goes for just about anything on your build.

But...since I seem to do the things the hard way on my build, I cut the notches with the walls up. I used a 1/4" offset rather than 3/8" and while it is a little snug, it seems to be okay.

Related to your other router posts, a router is an easy way to do this. It will require you to purchase a rabbet bit in addition to a pattern/template bit.

Image

After you have your sidewalls cut to the profile, lay out where you want the offset to be. The rabbet bit sets the offset - 3/8", 1/4" or whatever is needed. Adjust the height (or depth) of the bit so that the bit is set at about half the thickness of the sidewall. Then make one pass with the router and rabbet bit to cut a notch or rabbet.

Image

Then put the template bit in the router and, with the bearing of the template bit in the rabbet or notch, remove the the remainder of the material.

Image

Tom


Dude, you sure have some skills :thumbsup:
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Postby aggie79 » Sat Oct 02, 2010 8:14 am

LDK wrote:Dude, you sure have some skills :thumbsup:


Larry,

Thanks, but the truth is that I learned this tip the same way you did - seeing it on this board.

I have about 15 years of construction experience, but it was in concrete, iron, and utilities. That was 20 years ago. I did take a lot of shop classes in high school, but that was 35 years ago.

I found out about teardropping about the same time I thought I'd start a woodworking hobby to give me something to do in the later years. My teardrop is my first "woodworking" project.

This board is a wealth of information. I just wish that I had asked more questions so that I wouldn't have had the number of "oops" moments that do not show up in my build pictures

Take care, Tom
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Postby LDK » Sat Oct 02, 2010 8:14 pm

aggie79 wrote:
LDK wrote:Dude, you sure have some skills :thumbsup:


Larry,

Thanks, but the truth is that I learned this tip the same way you did - seeing it on this board.

I have about 15 years of construction experience, but it was in concrete, iron, and utilities. That was 20 years ago. I did take a lot of shop classes in high school, but that was 35 years ago.

I found out about teardropping about the same time I thought I'd start a woodworking hobby to give me something to do in the later years. My teardrop is my first "woodworking" project.

This board is a wealth of information. I just wish that I had asked more questions so that I wouldn't have had the number of "oops" moments that do not show up in my build pictures

Take care, Tom


I looked over your build thread and I really like the way you did the ceiling. You made it removable to put the ceiling in while it was on the bench. pretty cool idea. :thumbsup:
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