Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am thinking about using 1" aluminum angle 1/16 thick without trimming off one leg around the roof line of the td. With heating and hammer, is it reasonable to think this might work?

Jimbo wrote:I am thinking about using 1" aluminum angle 1/16 thick without trimming off one leg around the roof line of the td. With heating and hammer, is it reasonable to think this might work?

Jim,

Sure you can do it. I don't think you can do it w/o ripples. My experience with the large radius on the hatch tells me you're sure to get ripples on the smaller radius on the front. The kinks can be beaten down into ripples.

Just a thought: If you're going to put screws in the side that bends, drill your screw holes before attempting to bend the angle. It tends to kink where the screw holes are drilled making it easier to beat the kink out and the screw covers some of the mess.

Cut a form the same radius as the TD and use it to beat the kinks out. Clamp at one end on the form and work around the form. That worked best for me.

Let us know how it works out.

Geron

My experience mirrors Geron's post, except I didn't use a form. I predrilled all holes, annealed it, and bent and pounded it into shape. I am not totally happy with it and may replace it but it works for now.

Good luck with yours.
Dave in Alaska

David Beckett wrote:My experience mirrors Geron's post, except I didn't use a form. I predrilled all holes, annealed it, and bent and pounded it into shape. I am not totally happy with it and may replace it but it works for now.

Good luck with yours.
Dave in Alaska

Actually, I had to recut the gussets for the hatch so I just used the "misscut" gussets as a form to clamp and beat the angle. Probably wasn't necessary but was convenient.

Geron

Hmmmm, Well, if I rip a leg, how far should I rip it?

Jimbo wrote:Hmmmm, Well, if I rip a leg, how far should I rip it?

1/2 in. seemed to work "reasonably" well for me. 1/4 in. on the small radius around the door. (taper down from 1/2 " to 1/4 " as you approach the radius and 1/4" through the radius then taper back out to 1/2" as you leave the radius and return to the straight edge.

Just MAKE SURE however thin you rip it, it COVERS your rough finish. The thinner the fewer ripples. If you've never ripped aluminum angle make sure you have a zero tolerance insert in your saw and wear long sleeves and face protection and BE CAREFUL. I've never used a nibbler on 1/16 in. stock but if it'd work it'd be safer and present a smoother edge.

Geron

If you drill the holes before you bend it don't the holes get distorted?

I would suggest cutting your guide form to a tighter radius than you will need for your tear. It is easier to open it back up some than to tighten it.

Also, after you bend or hammer on annealed aluminum you will work harden it and you may need to re-anneal it. I prefer to heat and bend as needed as you go but be careful. Once you blister it it's trash.

Hope that helps,
D. Tillery

D. Tillery wrote:If you drill the holes before you bend it don't the holes get distorted?

I
Hope that helps,
D. Tillery

They do. Redrill. Screw head covers.

g

OK. What is your source for screw caps? I've seen some two piece plastic snap on type but there has to be something nicer out there.

D. Tillery

D. Tillery wrote:OK. What is your source for screw caps? I've seen some two piece plastic snap on type but there has to be something nicer out there.

D. Tillery

No. What I meant was the screw head helps cover the ripples. Decorative Stainless caps is a possible idea thought. Never thought of it.

g