Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Trying to build with as few metal fasteners as possible. Used these Miller dowels for the floor, hope this works. Anyone have experience with these?

One problem I have is that the drill bit is so aggressive that it tears up the plys of the plywood, is there a way to solve this? Thank you in advance for any help, I have never built ANYTHING out of wood before.

sdave209 wrote:One problem I have is that the drill bit is so aggressive that it tears up the plys of the plywood, is there a way to solve this? Thank you in advance for any help, I have never built ANYTHING out of wood before.

Have you tried a brad point drill bit?

The dowels use a special step drill. The drill is the same shape as the dowels which have 3 different diameters in each dowel. Ill post a link if I can figure that out.

Here is that link: http://www.millerdowel.com/about-us/index.html

You could break through the first layer of veneer with a brad point or forstner bit and then drill the hole with the step drill. Another option might be to clamp a 1x2 over the ply and drill through that and into the plywood if your bit is long enough.

Cool idea, have not seen the Miller dowels before

Yes, I like the Idea of breaking the first layer of ply with a brad point bit. Great idea. Thanks Guys.

Use higher speed to cut the first layer and a light touch. But splintering is actually a good thing. Gives more surface area for the adhesive to grab onto.

Try putting tape (Masking or Painter's, etc.) over the spot you are drilling.

sdave209 wrote:Trying to build with as few metal fasteners as possible.

Any particular reason?

sdave209 wrote:Trying to build with as few metal fasteners as possible.

Why? Is this a Mormon thing?

I don't put screws, nails or staples in the roof of my builds. I only attach them with epoxy. The reason is in boat deck and roof repair that I have done when there is a failure in a plywood structure, it is due to water intrusion where a wood plug has failed in a screw hole So to me less holes the less chance of failure.

Sdave....what's your final finish on the exterior going to be? While I'm a big fan of building what you want....that many dowels seems a bit over the top. If it's going to be finished natural or "bright" there are less expensive ways to go about it to get the look you want. I'm with Steve....epoxy takes care of a whole lot of mechanical fasteners. Just my opinion though. Doug

Don't use a reloadeble drilling machine, but one with normal elctrical power. Most of the battery machines turning to slow.

No real reason not to use screws, just thought it would be cool to point at my tear and say "only 10 screws hold it together".JK. I heard somewhere that dowels are a stronger bond than screws, and yes I did go a little crazy on the floor with dowels, but the walls wont be as overkill. My final finish will be paint, so you will not see all those cool dowel heads.

The only screws in my tear hold the hardware on. I used Miller dowels through the whole thing.



The Sapele veneer was very thin and brittle and I had zero issues with chipping. I used an electric drill with one of those drill press attachments that I picked up at the junk store. Could be your speed it too slow, you're pushing too hard, or you're not coming in square.

My spacing is either 4" or 6". I am positive that these dowels (especially in Black Locust like I used) are way stronger than screws is shear, bending and tension. My tear is rock solid but is put together with epoxy too (but use wood glue on the dowels - Titebond III in my case.)

Eric