Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

First off, I'm a newbie to this. I've been trying to do my homework / resarch, but my lands people! ther are over 120 pages of stuff in this section and I'm only up to page 8 or so.

My question is about the walls. The way I understand it, solid walls (3/4" ply) may sweat if it's cool to cold outside but insulated walls won't? If this is the case, I understand the more insulation the better. However, is 1/2" enough? 3/4" minimum? or does it need more to keep from sweating. We mostly travel in the early spring and fall. We travel all over, not necassarily down south where it's warm, but not far north in the snow either.

I'm planning on doing a sandwich wall, it seems the lightest, strongest, just not as fast. I have well seasoned (100 yr old) 3/4" white cedar and/or poplar I'm planning on ripping down for my 1x material. Thinking 1/4" ply on outside, luan inside. I'm not sure about the outside skin yet? Some say I won't need the 1/4" ply on the outside if using metal or ?

I don't want to end up with a wet, sweaty mess inside and feel like I've wasted my time & $.

Is there a thickness I need to keep in mind for the doors?

Whitney
S. Indiana

Welcome to the madness....LOL

Most people make their doors the same thickness as the walls. One thing to keep in mind is the door hardware you are going to use.

What you are referring to as “sweatingâ€

I think it more a question of proper ventilation...I build with 3/4 walls and place insulation in the roof and under the mattress...I have had no problems with condensation on the walls or windows...I always sleep with windows/roof vent open to one degree or another...I have a FantasticFan vent and run it as needed...I use a very small ceramic heater in winter and while I have AC, if it hot enough to need, I usually just stay home..I have not camped in temps lower than mid 20's so don't know how that would work...once again, I think it as much a matter of ventilation as anything else.....................
madjack

Thanks all for the replies.

So how much weight saving is there with 1/4" ply / 3/4" "studs" / 1/8-1/4" luan as apposed to using 3/4" ply with no insulation? Won't a 3/4" ply door warp easy? or does it need reinforced?

Do storm windows work on tears? or are they not weather tight enough?

Whitney

If you are only 3 seasons camping you can get by with solid plywood walls. The might be cold if you lean against them, but you really shouldn't have a problem with condensation.

Another thing to consider is heat. If you are camping in the early spring or late fall, it will be cold. And a source of heat will keep it comfortable inside the teardrop. It'll also get rid of some of the humidity which leads to condensation. That said, your window frames and other items that conduct the cold easily might still have condensation. Oh, and don't put your tongue on the door handle.



If you are using insulation in your walls, 1/2" or 3/4" insulation would help out nicely!

Mike...

WhitneyK wrote:Thanks all for the replies.

So how much weight saving is there with 1/4" ply / 3/4" "studs" / 1/8-1/4" luan as apposed to using 3/4" ply with no insulation? Won't a 3/4" ply door warp easy? or does it need reinforced?

Do storm windows work on tears? or are they not weather tight enough?

Whitney

...3/4 ply weighs around 75#s, 1/2 is 50 and 1/4 is 25...so, while a 1/4-stud-1/4 saves some weight, there is less than 20# savings per side...the difference may or may not matter unless you are going for an ultralight build...you really need to use quality, cabinet grade ply(11 plus plys)...avoid the cheap ChiPly from the big box stores and look for a smaller mom/pop woodyard or a cabinet shop to get your ply...I have not really had warpage problems(using 3/4) but it can occur, such things as what type of trim and hinge you use can help(or not) in this department....................
madjack

Welcome to the forum Whitney! Great to see another down south Hoosier! I used 3/4 insulation board in mine because it works well with over the counter 1x lumber. I don't have any condensation problems except for windows, roof vent etc.. in weather warm enough to leave the windows open there should be no problem at all.

Mark

I used 1/8in luan inside and out with 3/4in "studs". I used 3/4in rigid foam insulation in the stud cavities. The roof has a double layer of luan, but in retrospect I think I could have just used one since I skinned it with aluminum.

I made the entire side wall as one unit. I used a poplar (all the rest were pine) double width stud around the door opening then cut the door out of the wall. All the shelving and cabinets were made the same way.

I've camped in 100+ heat and freezing cold. I have an a/c unit for the heat and have never had condensation problems. The a/c is overkill so I control the temps with the roof vent.

Thanks for the advice / guidance everyone. While 3/4" ply is faster & easier, I think (watch him folks), that I will do the sandwich walls. 1) I like the insulation idea, 2) It's a little lighter weight even though I'm not going for a "lite" trailer, every lb counts, and 3) I was up in the loft of my shed, and I thought (there he goes again), you've got a lot of wood up here that could be used or ripped for framework.

Yes, it will take more time, but my job doesn't pay the best so I don't have a lot of extra cash. I do get 13 "holidays" off a year + personal days, + vacation, + comp time, so the time factor is kind of on my side,... that is, when I'm not being called away to help or do work for everybody else. Sometimes I feel like Solomon, I have over a dozen "wives", lol.

Whitney