Poly and Auto Clear...

[Billy K]

Why not??

With most of these trailers being built on a budget..

Is it possible to use a 'helmsman' type poly; seal all 6 edges; assemble and then spray an automotive clear coat over the entire shell??

Pros and Cons Welcome.

[Wimperdink]

I see the clear coat flaking off in a short amount of time leaving a big mess. Without something like epoxy/fiberglass to at least inhibit expansion/contraction, the clear coat wouldn't have a chance.

[doug hodder]

While I have no experience with this combination...I'd think the auto clear might be too "hot" on top of the helmsman, I could be wrong though, and auto clear isn't for anyone wanting to do it on a budget. I've sprayed 4 of them with auto clear, some on paint over epoxy, some on straight epoxy. I think it's a great top coat...but you got to get the base correct to do it. Just my opinion. Doug

[Billy K]

two 'NO' no 'yea'

ok, just a thought.

Doug, what would be the 'right' with epoxy??

[doug hodder]

With an epoxy base, you can dye the wood (for a woody), coat it out with several coats of epoxy to level/smooth and build some depth and clear coat over a sanded (like 320) base. Don't use an oil based stain if it's a woody...under epoxy, an aniline dye is a better choice, won't lift.

If I paint one, it still gets several coats of epoxy to flatten and seal the ply, then paint and clear. To do it correctly, you'd need to have the entire body together prior to the sealing and painting. Think of it this way...."I just made this shell, now I have to coat the entire thing out in plastic to make it waterproof".

You can't have any hard 90 edges, they all need to be eased considerably or rounded with a router bit then sealed. Finish on a hard 90 with epoxy and clear will pop on the 90 in a relatively short period. All your edges need to be completely sealed...so that when you sand them, it looks like a piece of plastic to ensure you get a good seal/protection.

Windows, lights and other trim can be added after it's all sealed, but seal the screws where you penetrate the exterior finish.

Check with your auto paint supplier to find out what is compatible under the clear system that you choose. Clear can go on straight epoxy, but I use the UV resistant hardner in the epoxy on a woody. You can't shoot auto clear over just anything, make sure it all will work out or you will be wasting your dough$$$.

Epoxy/clear isn't an inexpensive, or easy way to go, the results are great, but you gotta work for it. Just my experience/opinion.

I'm sure that others will reply with their paint ideas, like Planovet...I can't remember what he used right now, but he as well as others have done some great finishes and had good luck with them without the auto clear. Doug

[Billy K]

Thank you. Good and useful stuff, there!

Sounds like any/all trim should be in place before I get to the paint booth ... if, I go the auto clear route.

My Osage bows are pretty cool as they change from yellow to brown....don't think a TD would be AS cool; doing that... UV protection and the Woody look; is good!

[neil and ramona]

You should use a sanding sealer first,two coat,scuff with scotch bright pad (gray 3m)
is what i used two coats of clear on top of that.
We have done this several times for cabinets in rental property it works great.
On the other hand my tear i done with helsman over sanding sealer and it is holding up well and can be recoated every year if need be.As far as flaking goes two things cause this poor prep is the leading cause the next
is cheap material.I suggest going to an auto body supply and picking a "middle of the road" clear.