Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Planned on using iron pipe; going from in front, underneath to the rear where the stove is -- about 13 feet or so.

What diameter pipe should be used? I was thinking there must be some kind of chart for this but couldn't find one.

3/8" would be more than sufficent, but finding it in long lengths could be an issue.

1/2" is overkill for just a stove, but readily available.

- Frank

3/8 should do quite well..... Have it cut to length at plumbing shop, threaded and use soft copper for conect5ion from rigid pipe to appliance and tank... OR just go 3/8 soft copper all the way and put it next to frame rail for "protection"....

Dale

We used 3/8th, flared our own ends. Also ran it under the trailer, and used pieces of slit rubber hose zip tied to the frame to keep it from moving around.

Used 3/8" copper tubing with compression fittings. Used a bulkhead fitting where it went through the trailer floor in the galley and LP hose to the stove. The copper tubing was inside a piece of 1/2" EMT under the trailer to protect it. I don't say this was the proper way, just my way.

I would also use soft copper, K if you can find it in 3/8". I had a Jayco Pop-up and they used copper. I plumbed a camp with copper for propane as well. A word of caution, borrow or buy a "good" flaring tool. the cheap ones do a lousy job. Also buy frost proof flare nuts. The standard ones crack and leak. Frost proof ones are much thicker and have a larger hex (bigger wrench size).

Rigid black iron pipe could cause problems if your frame flexes very much. Pipe threads can't take a lot of movement. If possible run the copper inside a C channel frame if using a trailer that has c channel frames, as HF trailers. Use grommets, mounting clamps or short lengths of hose to protect the copper from rubbing on the frame.

Larry C

RVIA and national standards for gas pipe is black iron. There is at least one instance I know of where a copper line burst and started a fire. Post fire investigation proved the copper was below standard wall thickness.

One of the problems with ASTM standards is there is a plus or minus tolerance in manufacture and guess which side is crowded.

Steve_Cox wrote:Used 3/8" copper tubing with compression fittings. Used a bulkhead fitting where it went through the trailer floor in the galley and LP hose to the stove. The copper tubing was inside a piece of 1/2" EMT under the trailer to protect it. I don't say this was the proper way, just my way.

Steve---- from my training: Compression fittings on soft copper should not be used as a propane connection. The connections on soft copper should be flare fittings only, using frost proof nuts for outside use. Also running copper through EMT could cause issues with dissimilar metals, steel/copper. The steel frame used as electrical ground and possibly road salt/water causing galvanic corrosion is the issue here.

The Jayco camper I had, just used bare soft copper tubing, it was tarnished, but no corrosion was visible . All connections to/through the steel frame were protected with rubber coated clamps or grommets, and they did as you mentioned, use a bulkhead fitting to connect the copper/LPG hose.

Not trying to knock your methods, just trying to keep everybody safe.
Actually, this subject may fall under individual state DOT or US DOT specs and anyone doing propane connections on a Teardrop homebuilt should consult current propane regulations set forth by your state DOT and the US DOT concerning recreational vehicles. Better safe than sorry.......

Larry C

I also use one of those long propane lighters to leak test it when I turn on the gas.

Steve_Cox wrote:I also use one of those long propane lighters to leak test it when I turn on the gas.

I bet it's a really really long lighter!

I also used 3/8" Black Pipe for my hard line. It was easy to bend a 90 degree bend with a foot operarted EMT conduit bender. I wanted to use Black Pipe, and not Galvanized, because I wanted to weld it to the frame mounts before powdercoating.

I used a Tee fitting on the stove end with one end going to a outside mounted "quick release" Propane fitting that we use for the Bar-B-Que.

I had a hard time finding the 3/8" Black pipe. After I found mine I found out my local True Value can special order it in ten foot lenghts, and for less than I paid.

Steve_Cox wrote:I also use one of those long propane lighters to leak test it when I turn on the gas.

Your a man that thinks "My Way". No messing around, right to the point.

If it leaks gas, "a burning flame" will always find the leak.

LOL

I am planning on a 3 burner cook top in my galley, and am considering several ways to hook it to the propane tank.



Would it not be advisable to buy a smaller tank (say 10 lb) and mount it in the cabinet directly under the cooktop? I am a little concerned with the amount of cooking we could do with a 10 lb tank, as I don't want to have it refilled every time before we go camping.

I guess the motivation is to move the propane tank off the tongue and into the galley to help with the tongue weight issue (since I plan on installing a tongue box). I also think it would be easier this way than running pipe the length of the frame, not that it's the right or even safe way (I definitely don't want to blow up here). Any thoughts on this?

Thanks

As long as the tank is well ventilated, gas cannot leak into the sleeping compartment, and no ignition source is nearby I think anyplace that meets these three critera would be ok.

http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/lpg_hose_fitting.htm

If this hose is approved for marine use (when your a thousand miles from land and should you have an explosion there is little chance of rescue it needs to be reliable) I think it would be fine for a trailer as long as it was protected a bit from chafe where required. They state several reasons in the product description as to why it's "better" than copper.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus