Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi all,

I finished up the exterior paint job (except for the trim color and logo) and I'm happy with it (two coats of marine epoxy, then 2 coats of oil based primer, and 2 top coats of Valspar oil base deck and floor paint). So now I'm wanting to put some aluminum trim on it, but I reaallly don't like the idea of putting screw holes in the edges of a nice, completely sealed finish.

Since my hopper is angular, I was planning on using 3/4 alum angle 1/16". Wouldn't some sort of poly ureathane adhesive do the job? I've seen 3M 4200 sold locally but I haven't used it. I searched the forum and read about Sikaflex, but can't find that locally. Are there any other brands of adhesives used for such an application? Maybe even some kind of tape?









I considered no trim at all, but since my hatch will need aluminum trim (becuz of the way I designed it ) I thought the rest of the trailer might look kinda funny without it. Sorry I don't have any pics of the hatch yet (it's not fully assembled...you can see it lying inside the trailer in the second picture).

I've really gotta get this thing done so I can camp it in this summer!


Still at it,
Richard

R, the problem with most adhesives(that will work) is holding them in place until they set up...since you don't need the adhesive/trim to seal the edges, I would look into 3M VHB(very high bond) tape...this is the stuff auto mfgs use to apply trim to autos...good stuff...should be available at an autobody repair/paint supply house...............
madjack

I will go with MadJack on this 3M VHB is one alternative. You can find it on ebay.

The tape has more of a chance of being reversable as well. If you use the 3M or Sika adhesive you'll almost certainly pull your finish off if you ever have to remove a piece of trim. Plus there's the potential for squeeze out with the adhesive as well.

Eric

I have to agree with Eric dont use the Sika product under the moulding. It is there to stay once applied. Im a Sika product fan and Ive tried this. Works well on mouldings and other things but separating it if needed will ruin your work for sure.

There is a removal procedure for the 3M VHB and it will come off with orange base cleaners.

You've done a beautiful job on the paint and the cabin and it already looks really good.

Instead of putting trim on the cabin edges, you could just trim the doors to match the hatch. It would be easier and probably less hassle and risk than trimming the whole cabin and would still tie things together. You could even use a smaller trim angle on the doors and it would still look good and blend everything in. If you wanted to have something silver toned on each side, a nice aluminum, brushed nickel, or stainless steel decoration on the middle of front or one on each of the front corners (or…?) Maybe take a look at handle bases or the silver decorations that come on mud flaps - not the naked ladies! - ...or such to get ideas?

Oh, and the metal trim on the doors wouldn't have to break up the paint trim if you only trim the windows or just the top half of the doors or something like that.

Just a thought….

3M VHB is strong stuff.

I've been trying to think how you can use it on angle as you can't slide it into place. I think you can stick the tape to both faces of the body, push the angle into position and then pull out the release tapes to make the final bond.

Thank you everyone for the input on this.....I've been checking around online for the VBS tape...ebay, etc....the stuff seems kind of expensive from what I've seen so far probably would cost more than my aluminum trim...also, what Andrew said got me to thinking.....the stuff might be a real pain in the 'arse' to get positioned properly!

And finally, maybe I'm just being to anal about this...I mean, after all, lots of trailers out there with trim attached with screws.....shoot some sealant in the holes and under the trim, right? Maybe just use less screws.

Anyway, thanks again all......will keep at it and keep you posted.

Richard

Richard,

You've built yourself a fine-looking teardrop. The trim will really finish it nicely.

I have yet to rain test my teardrop, but feel pretty confident that I've minimized leaks at screw holes by using an epoxy syringe to squirt in some sealant before final fastening. (After pre-drilling, I installed screws so the threads were cut in the plywood, then backed them all out, added sealant, and replaced the screws.)



Take care, Tom

I'm very serious about my water intrusion. I'm confident that my teardrop would float indefinitely with no damage.

Having said that - McMaster-Carr is your friend. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3226/=atvhc0

I used the stainless steel "Metal Bonded Sealing Washers" to hold "large" trim pieces on like windows, hinges, vents, etc. Seals to both the surface of the trim as well as the shank of the screw. That and some type of sealant in the hole for double protection.

Having said all that - my aluminum corner trim is held on with #4 brass wood screws countersunk with no washers - with sealant in the holes. My camper is garaged so should last several lifetimes anyway.

Eric