Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

My next tear will be only 40" wide and 72" long. I have been kicking around the thought of using an 1 3/8 hollow core door, 36 inches wide, for the floor. I can simply add a 2" x 1 3/8 wood filler on each side, cut the door down to 72" long and insert a filler within the end to add structural strength to it so the roof plywood can be secured to it. This will be secured to the frame with through-bolts and panel adhesive.

I believe it will surely be strong enough, since we never stand on our beds, just lay flat on them. I thought I would coat the bottom with roofing mastic, along with all of the HF frame members. Anyone have any thoughts on this idea, either pro or con, let me know. I just want to keep it light, hopefully less than 400 lb and cheap, less then 200 bucks, plus the 200 dollar trailer.

Roly Nelson, just have to build another, one just isn't enough. "Where are you going to keep it, " she said. I told her to just watch, that is why I am going to call it the 1/4 Nelson Stacker.

Roly
Interesting idea using a hollow core door. I think I would skin the inside face with another piece of 1/4 luan just to stiffen it up a little more. Do you have a drawing of your concept to post? As long as frame twisting is keep to a minimum with stiff sidewalls, it could work. Good luck with your design

Thanks, Woody, another top layer of 1/4 inch laun sounds like a good idea. I have dozens of sketches and scale drawings on what I plan to build, but lack the smarts to post them on the board. I don't even understand the "help with photos" as shown above. Most of this computer talk is Greek to me, and I don't know where my pics are, let alone how to up or download them to post them on this site. No, I refuse to take any computer classes, the last one I attended was a disaster. I guess I will have to stick to what I know, that is measure, cut, glue, sand, varnish and such.

Roly, the lil' ol' retired woodworker with wild TD ideas in my head!

Roly
It would concern me that the original door skin is thin, a second skin would really help; My other concern is since most hollow core doors are honeycombed with cardboard and some aren't. I would selective on the choice of the door. Sounds like a definite light weight possibility in the making

Thanks by the way with your help when I built mine last year with the varnish advice.

If you can find one without the cardboard inside you could make some small holes in the edge and inject non-expanding foam insulation. The expanding type would probably destroy the door. This would add R-value and a ton of strength with out much cost or weight.

With all due respect - Why a door instead of getting two sheets of 1/4" luan, a sheet of expanded foam and glueing them together yourself?

I would think the DIY version would be just as lightweight, stronger and a lot cheaper. Most doors come pre-drilled for doorknobs too.

My first teardrop which is towed by a HONDA GOLDWING weighs about 300lbs. It has a full 1.5" square tubed frame, the floor is 3/4"ply, sides are 1/2" and roof skin is 1/8". It is 39"wide and 6ft long inside. 0.032 aluminium glued all over! It is very strong and an easy and stable tow. A door seems a poor idea to me, when a sheet of ply is cheap and strong, it's only advantage is weight. The skins are flimsy at best and I bet easily penetrated by road rocks thrown up by the tires but even your elbow at night if you push yourself up in bed the wriong way. The Honeycombed carboard might help but I think if I went that route I would seek a totally hollow door and fill it withexpanding foam for insulation and provide lots of support in the way of the frame. Better yet get a large tube of PL foam baord adhesive and make a sandwich of 1.5" blue/or pink styrobaord and attach a sheet of 1/8 ply to either side.

Just my 2 cents from the experience of buildin one like it! I'd go the plywood route again with no hesitation. But even I would only use 1/2" ply in the small format teardrop if I did it again especially if a full frame is used!

gerald