Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Okay i haven't seen any (off road teardrop) out there, but I am interested in building one. It seems the Harbor Freight trailer is a popular choice to use. It does seem that they need reinforcement to be used I'm sure I would add a little extra because of the off road abuse it would get. I have seen a few designs of the TD that I like and am going to design mine after.

Body: From reading the forum the 3/4 in plywood seems to be the staple for the walls and floor is there a particular wood to use or does it matter? I am curious of how the curved top is done do you just use thin plywood so it will flex on the curves? Any suggestions are very appreciated.

Exterior: I don't want it the aluminum color i will most likely paint it an olive green that way it will match my Suzuki tow vehicle. What other options are out there to cover the exterior? fiberglass, or treated wood?

What other extras are a must have when building one? Has anyone built the skeleton out of aluminum? probably save some weight but add to the cost

Scroll down a few forums and there's an offroad forum, probably best place to ask questions related to offroad related teardrops/campers and get ideas in the threads.

Yup, go to the off road section and ask away. I've built two, Steve has built one, Sonetpro even managed to build one
Cheers
Paul

So-Cal Teardrops wrote:http://www.adventureduo.com/2011/02/teardrop-testing-in-mojave-desert.html

SoCal Teardrops are very nice, I was there today picking up some alum molding for my doors, the trailers are second to none as well as the willingness to help out the indepndent builder.

Hey Ogre

I built my TD to go on rough 4x4 roads ( but not to crazy ) and i also tow with Suzuki's a 1994 Sidekick and a 2000 Vitara. I built my own frame using the rear axle and springs from a VW rabbit pickup. I am only using 13 inch tires though I thought that would really limit me but it has gone where ever I have tried to drag it. Build it high of course. Also I used a single straight tongue so I can jack knife it if needed, and have done it a few times now. I have pictures in my album. Make the tongue long enough to fit your TV. But not to long as that will add drag when towing at high speed. excessive height also raises drag but probably something we can't do much about.

Mine ended up weighing 1100 lbs ready to go with a spare tire. And I am able to tow it 60-65 mph on the ugly interstates. ( i hate those things ) It is insulated with a 12 volt battery and way over built.

And welcome to the forum

Randy

I just read on another thread you are using a Samurai. You will need to be very light. 3/4 inch plywood on the floor, maybe 1/2 if the frame supports the edges. for the walls a good 1/2 inch would work with a good atachement to the floor and good roof spars. For the top I would use 1/8 birch. This I have used with no problems. It can be easily found in 5 foot square sheets. Will have some butt joints, double up the spare there or make a wider one for that area. This will probably be your most troublesome spot for leaks. I put a mess of epoxy thickened with wood flour ( saved from my belt sander ) in the crack and then as I didn't trust it I put a strip of 1/8 inch birch over than glued down with the epoxy and small screws to clamp while curing. Has worked so far

Randy

I have a 4x6 box trailer with a custom drop axle I made out of Hubs, spindles and leaf springs from a Samurai. You need to look at doing the same, then you will have two spares that can fit either vehicle (best) or bring one spare to cover both Sammi and trailer. I almost built a teardrop, have hubs, spindle, and coil springs off a Grand Vitara. You need soft springs and shocks, not stiff trailer springs.

Hey thanks everyone for your advice I am wanting to make it as light as possible probably going to frame it out of 1x2 and then make the skin out of diamond plate aluminum for the sides and a smooth aluminum for the top. I thought the 3/4 plywood for the walls would be a bit over kill and it would keep the weight down any thoughts on that any specific reason on using the plywood?
Thanks Colin

Plywood is easier for most people to work with. But I do think 1/2 would be plenty as long as the spars are fastened good. I would check carefully on just how much the aluminum weighs. Also if it is not insulated it will be an oven during the day and a freezer at night.

Randy

Oh I am planning on insulating it all the way around, and how do you typically attach the aluminum to the walls and or roof? I was thinking of just screws and or glue then trim to size but the holes from the screws might open holes to leaks.

I have not built an AL clad trailer but it seems most here build a plywood wall and then hold the AL on with the molding strips letting the AL "float". People have tried all kinds of glue and such but they all seem to let go.

AL diamond plate is probably thicker than the typical AL used so one could screw it to a wood frame. Use AL screws and a drop of sealant on each then let the molding strips hold the top on.

Randy