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Best glues

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:59 am
by Dummy
I have always used Gorilla Glue on damp wood spread thinly with a small acis brush. It seems Titibond is a favorite on this site. Are there any advantages to one over the other?

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 4:54 pm
by aggie79
Where my joints were tight, I used Titebond III. The Gorilla Glue is good, but one downside of this type of polyurethane glue is that it can "foam". For my "less than tight" joints, I used PL Premium.

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 5:53 pm
by Ageless
Gorilla also makes a 'wood' glue which I find as good as Titebond III; but less expensive.

One point I have found is that in case of damp weather; Titebond that hasn't set completely will create a weak joint while the Gorilla 'wood' glue wil set-up complete.

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 6:04 pm
by tk
Gorilla Glue and other polyurethane glues have been touted as having good gap-filling qualities. Unfortunately, strength is diminished if the joint is not tight. Polyurethanes have also been advertised as accepting stain readily. However, if a yellow glue joint is tight you shouldn't be able to see it easily anyway. I honestly don't see any application where polyurethane glues are superior to yellow glues except perhaps when gluing poolyuretheane to polyurethane.


best,
Tom

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 6:04 pm
by tk
Gorilla Glue and other polyurethane glues have been touted as having good gap-filling qualities. Unfortunately, strength is diminished if the joint is not tight. Polyurethanes have also been advertised as accepting stain readily. However, if a yellow glue joint is tight you shouldn't be able to see it easily anyway. I honestly don't see any application where polyurethane glues are superior to yellow glues except perhaps when gluing poolyurethane to polyurethane.


best,
Tom

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 6:14 pm
by madjack
...ANY adhesive used correctly is acceptable...(while I have not used GG for wood) for a straight wood to wood glue up, it is awfully hard to beat TiteBond II/III...I do use GG for anything that has already had a finish applied and if you are a sloppy woodworker, a poly construction adhesive such as PL Premium will help fill gaps...foaming GG will not make a good gap filler in these situations...*A TIP*...when using GG, keep a solvent soaked rag around and about 15min after glue up, clean the foam "squish out"...it'll save ya from having to scrape it off later.......
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 6:43 pm
by Ageless
STANDARD WARNING

Gorilla Glue and dogs do not mix!

Dogs love it but the expansion will block the bowel and cause death. Keep the pets and workspace separate please

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 7:05 pm
by caseydog
These glue threads have a reputation of being like religion and politics threads. But this one seems pretty tame.

And, Ageless, I gotta' wonder how you know this thing about Gorilla Glue and dogs. I hope no animals were injured in the procurement of this knowledge. :thinking: :o

CD

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 8:56 pm
by Ageless
Casey:

Toxin
Diphenylmethane diisocyanate

Source
Gorilla Glue Premium Brand, Elmer's Probond

General Information
After being exposed to moisture, this product is able to expand to many times its original volume. If ingested in its liquid form (e.g., by licking up a spill, a towel, or item being glued) it can form a hard "foam-like" foreign body, generally in the stomach. An obstruction of the digestive tract can then occur.

Toxic Dose
Not determined for dog and cat.

Signs
Enlarged abdomen, bloated in appearance, abdominal pain, loss of appetite, anxiety, vomiting (perhaps with blood), hyperventilation, labored breathing, lethargy. If only very small amounts are ingested, an irritation of the gastrointestinal tract can occur, which may cause vomiting loss of appetite, and abdominal pain.

Immediate Action
Inducing vomiting is not recommended as the mass could become lodged in the esophagus or could enter the lungs. Seek veterinary attention.

Veterinary Care
General treatment: If a foreign body occurs, the recommendation is to surgically remove it. The use of bulking agents to push the foreign body through the gastrointestinal tract is generally not successful. The bulking agent can become trapped in the glue formation instead of helping to push the foreign body through. The induction of vomiting is not recommended.

Supportive treatment: IV fluids and IV antibiotics as determined by veterinarian.

Specific treatment: Unavailable.

Prognosis
Variable

Prevention
Remove pets from areas in which the product is being used and clean up all spills immediately.


http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=1+1411+1418&aid=3478

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:27 pm
by planovet
aggie79 wrote:Where my joints were tight, I used Titebond III.

For my "less than tight" joints, I used PL Premium.


That's pretty much what I did. No problems :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:16 pm
by B52
A sometimes handy related link :D

http://www.thistothat.com/index.shtml