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Wall Construction - Opinions Wanted

PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:44 pm
by Loader
I have used the stick framing method and 3/4 sheet insulation in by first build, however for the second build I am working through some different options on wall construction.

Was wondering if anyone has used laminate flooring underlayment as an insulation layer between two sheets of plywood.

Two types of underlayment are:

http://tinyurl.com/4bczdse

http://tinyurl.com/4pmckhw

I understand the R value in minimal (.5 at best), however, I was wondering if it would help reduce the chances of condensation.

I am considering 3/4 fir, then the underlayment (currently think the thinner foam based type above), then 1/4 maple for basic wall construction. The exterior would have .040 aluminum.

I know the gluing surface is gone with the underlayment, however it would be thin enough to allow a few staples to secure it together and then with bulkheads, door opening trim, etc, I would think the interior skin would hold in place fine.

The trailer top would be insulated with the 3/4 sheets (blue/pink) from the big box stores.

Thanks for your opinions and thoughts.

PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 12:27 pm
by Classic Finn
Hello Loader nice to hear from you again. Be intersting to watch your new build develop. :)

I used the laminate underlay on our tear. It does help with the condensation indeed. Ive got hardwood flooring with this under lay installed and Im glad I did however I also used a Finnish made ply
that is widely used in horse box and caravans here. This also keeps condensation out. Here is info on it.


KoskiDeck is Finnish birch or combi plywood coated on both sides with a hard wearing phenolic film overlay. One or both sides are hot pressed with a slip resistant mesh pattern.

KoskiDeck features
•all-round board for technical applications
•high load bearing capacity
•wear resistant
•slip resistant surface
KoskiDeck is an ideal material for technical flooring applications in vehicles and constructions designed for high load bearing capacity.

KoskiDeck applications
•horse boxes, trailers
•ship decks, railway wagons
•farm building, warehouses
•loading platforms
•pedestrian bridges
•scaffolding
•special packages

On our Kit floor will be made as the diagram below. Lightweight but yet durable. And it has a decent R Value. This will come as a premade element ready to install with bolts as were on the Kit flooring before.

Image

Dont know if its everybody,s way but its our way and with a colleague with 30 years + in the industry. :thumbsup: He has built caravans as well as special trailers using this method. :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 12:42 pm
by Loader
Thanks Finn.

I think it would work, and being I camp mostly in decent weather, no real cold weather camping, I would think the condensation would be eliminated.

Just looking for both an efficient and effective method to construct the wall. However, I don’t want to sacrifice trailer lifespan. As we all know, things are harder to repair than they are to build the first time!

PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 8:21 pm
by WarPony
Man, Earl this is a toughy. I have built all three of mine using the 3/4" pink foam as the core insulation and have never had an issue with condensation.

I don't have any experience with either of the insulation products you've shown. Are you planning on layering them up to build a 3/4" layer?

If so, I think it's going to be more of a PITA than just going with the pink/blue stuff and save a bunch of time and aggravation.

IMO, any insulation is better than nothing even if you only camp when it's nice out.

Jeff

PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 8:56 pm
by Loader
Hey Jeff,

Was debating if I wanted to build a regular 3/4 wall (total thickness) no pink foam this time. Then I got thinking about condensation, so was thinking about using the foam underlayment in between the two layers of ply.

Actually, today I was thinking of going with the 3/4 wall (single sheet plywood) with no insulation. This one will have aluminum skin. The roof will be insulated with the pink 3/4 foam. Then again, perhaps I should stick to what I know and do the insulation like I did with the first trailer.

Guess I need to decide so I can go pick up the wood and get on with it.....

PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 9:21 pm
by WarPony
The single sheet build will be easier and quicker but I think you'll be pissed about the condensation.

I've been around you for a few years, dude. I'd hate to see you second guessing things later on. Not telling you what to do.......... I'm just sayin'.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.......... Go with what you know........

Jeff

PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 7:39 am
by Loader
Thanks Jeff.

Insulated walls here I come!

PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 1:52 pm
by halfpastsix
I used laminate floor insulation on mine. In the UK, it is sold in sheets that look a bit like black polystyrene. The outer structure of CowPod is plastic facia cladding which has a 9mm air gap. I spray glued the insulation to this, and then screwed hardboard to the inside. It is a very very light and incredibly strong structure, needing minimal wood framing.

Interior wall, cabinet construction

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 10:20 am
by Dant
This is prob'ly a dumb question because it is so basic, but:

I want to build an interior wall, or more likely just a cabinet about 4' high x 4' long and about 18" wide. This will extend out from one wall into the middle of the trailer. One purpose is just to have something to lean on while sitting up in bed reading. I may use it as well to install a sink or stove.

Anyway, what's the best, simplest way to attach it to the floor and one wall? I may want to be able to move it, or remove it later, but want it installed securely enough for my purposes.