Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Ok I did this sketch while sitting at Burger King this morning (always bring a pencil, my graph pad, and a protractor). I reworked the A-frame to 50º (since couplers are either for straight 2x2 or a 50º angle).
The main frame will be 4'x8' (with a coupe of 6.5' crossbars) and the trailer body will curve up at the front, but still have an overhange of 15"
So does this look right or should I ad a little more length to the tongue?

Looks about right

You've not left yourself much room between the body and the hitch ball.

When you back up you risk hitting the body with the tow vehicle when you turn. I would definitely try to increase the distance, and then as long as you are making drawings, make a top view of the tow vehicle and the travel trailer, and articulate it to see if it clears. Heck, you've got the time, so why not!!!

Mike...

Well let me see. I could move the a-frame forward 6" and then if you figure another 3" for the coupler and another 3" for the hitch from the tow vehicle that would give me a total of 33" from the body to the back of my car. Nearly three feet, would that be enough? That would mean I could get the tow vehicle and the trailer at a 50 degree angle before they hit. Honestly if I get things that tight, I am probably screwed anyway because I have never been really good at handling a trailer. You should have seen me trying to back the U-haul into a gas station with a car tailer on the back with my chevy on it! That was a minor miracle!

If your tow vehicle is an SUV or a Mini-Van then you will want at least 3' if not more due to the Rear Door travel.



33 1/2" from bumper hitch to T.D. not as much as I want. I will eventually replace the tongue with a longer section.

If I have the trailer attached and the truck is slightly turned I can not open the rear hatch without hitting the trailer. I either have to move the hole rig, unhook the trailer or use the window instead of the back door.

long=good, short=bad, just dont get to long

No worries there. It is going behind a 53 Chevy Sedan. Though I may yet make an even longer tongue. I need to check my RV books to see what the suggested turning radius should be as a minumum. I may also move the body back on the frame and build a small tongue box to fit the front curve.

You could also run a straight tube down the middle and make it as long as you want!!!

Mike...

I meant to ask aout that. Is there any benefit to an a-frame over a straight tube? If I ran a tube from the front bar of the trailer just back to the scond one I tshould be pretty solid right? And also cut some weight off as well?

There are only 2 benefits that I can see with a 50* tongue.

1) It's easy to put on a tongue chest
2) You can use the center mount tongue jack (which I prefer)

Since you don't have a tongue chest planned...

and if you don't care about the style of tongue jack, then by all means just use a straight tube.

Wasn't that easy?

Mike...

The straight tube sure would make things easier. Should that be heavier than the rest of the frame? I am planning on using 11ga. 2x2 tube steel. Should I use a heavier gauge on the bar?

You might try something like 2x2x3/16" tube. Remember all the weight of that monster you are designing is going to be on it!

Mike...

use a center tube with the side braces, it seems a little more trust worthy for some reason