Need more frame advice

[DudKC]

Has anyone worked with an old Starcraft frame before? I am wondering if it would be ill advised to remove this section of the frame, which would allow access to the wheels in the event of a flat. As it is now, it will be nearly impossible to change a flat without completely removing the axle.



Thanks!

(See my gallery for pictures of the whole frame)

http://mikenchell.com/forums/album_personal.php?user_id=12156

[Yota Bill]

based on this larger pic of your frame:

I would not remove that section entirely, without replacing the strength in a different way. It is a main "beam" in the structure, both crossmembers attach to it, and the tongue is also attached to it, all very closely to the area you want to remove.

Have a welder (or do it yourself, if you have the capability) cut that section out, and then fabricate and weld in a bridge that sits higher, with both ends of the bridge angled towards the axle or center (basically, look at how mini-trucks and low riders modify the frame above thier rear axle)...the frame will need some temp braces installed before cutting that section out, to avoid any twist or misalignment.

I would possibly also suggest a wider axle for more stability, but it may be fine for your purposes the way it is

[bve]

I've done it, and I would not recommend doing it - ALL of the strength of the frame is in those two outer rails. As soon as you cut through the first rail it will weaken the frame and you'll begin to second guess the decision.

I ended up scraping using the frame for a TD in favour of using it for a utility trailer.

In hindsight I would probably salvage the outer rails at full length and the tongue a-frame and try to build a new frame from there.


http://picasaweb.google.com/burke.vones ... otsonedash

[DudKC]

bve- Thanks for the reply and helpful advice. Did you try anything to replace the strength of the outer rails you cut out? I am wondering if it would make a difference if we tried doing something like the poster above suggested, or something like the poster who posted the below quote on my build thread.

Hello Dustin: I like the larger wheels and tires. That will make a difference in the ride of your Benroy. You can use those wheels but I would modify your frame and make the piece that goes in front of the wheels. The outside of the trailer. You can have a welder cut them out and make them so you can remove them from the frame if you need to change the wheel and tire. They would have to make a couple of extensions on the part that is cut out and make them so they bolt back on to the trailer frame. This will keep most of the stiffness that was designed in the frame as before and tire changes would be accessible. Just my thoughts on your dilemma.

Good luck on your build.

Any extra thoughts would be extremely helpful in this moment before we move forward and potentially have to scrap the whole frame.

[48Rob]

Dustin,

Have you jacked up the frame until the tire is off the ground, and tried to remove the tire?

Many old campers have very tight clearances.
Some require that a good bit of air be let out of the tire to clear, but they do clear.
I've never heard of a trailer commercially manufactured that required axle removal to change a tire.

Many "look" like they would never clear, but you only need a 32nd of an inch...

Rob

[bve]

Dustin, I had wanted to (and did) narrow the frame. In the picture above that I posted there is a piece of the side rail inserted in-line with the inner rail - the same rail the leaf springs are attached to - hopefully that makes sense. I also did add bracing behind, however when all was said and done, I was not comfortable with what I had. Too heavy to start with, too much flex behind the axle. I could have added more reinforcing, however I have limited tow capacity as is, furthermore the frame was way overkill for the load it needs to carry.

It has served me very well as a utility trailer, but it never sees the hi-way other than a mile or two to go to the landfill.

I'll try to dig up a photo of the 'finished' frame before I put a deck on it.

[DudKC]

Rob - We switched axles from the 2,000 lb axle with 12" wheels to a 3,500 lb axle with drum brakes, and I put 14" wheels on it.

bve - I see what you mean when you say you added the outer rail you cut off to the same piece that the leaf spring attaches to. I think I am leaning towards cutting it out and welding the straps to it so it can bolt back in place. Hopefully by attaching the floor it will help to add to the strength of the structure. Any thoughts on the effect of attaching the floor and whether or not it would add strength to the frame and eliminate some of the flex that might come about with the modification?

[48Rob]

I see...

Since the floor doesn't need to be flat in the wheel well area, a wewlder can cut out that section and raise it up a couple inches higher than the hub center when the frame is jacked up.
Such as in the fine art example below

You then only need to make a small removeable skirt.


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