Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Has anyone used White Elastomeric Roof Coating, This stuff says it 500% elastic; UV resistance, flexible below freezing, Non-flammable ,Low toxicity and odor,fungi resistance .It can be apllied over polyurethane foam, goes on blue and dries white
Do any of you have any thoughts on this. I'm curious if this is so great a product than why is everyone using roofing tar based goop , that smells and is sticky to work with? The cost is just a few dollors different per gal

A few dollars? Might do that next time cause the evil smell black goo is, well nasty smelling.

Probably because the black smelly goop is tried, tested and passed. Isn't the Elastomeric roof coating closer to $40 / gallon?


Burke

At my local "Rona" (Canada's version of Home Depo) it sells for $33.00 gal. the emulsion tar goop is $30.00 gal. I'm thinking I'll caulk all the the places where the wood frame meets the plywood with a roofing type sealant. Than coat with the white stuff.

I realize the tar based stuff is tried and tested but still curious of the white stuff. The guy at Rona thinks it has the same capabilities and is more user friendly.

On my next build will not use the black goo. I will put at least two coats of thinned spar varnish so it will sink in and then a coat or 2 of it full strength. From what I have figured most people use the black goo cause it looks like the back fiber board the manufactures use on trailers. Black goo does not soak into the wood so wood will be unprotected when it cracks and falls off. Black goo will not flow into any cracks in the wood or into any joints. I really do not see why we use it. It will wear off from road debris just like any coating but there will be no wood with soaked in varnish.

Black goo has its place but not on the bottom of my trailer. Notice it is sold as "Roof tar" or some such. And my varnish will probably be at least a few ounces lighter. I do not know the difference in cost.

Randy

My floor consisted of 3/4 plywood given three coats of varnish on both sides and with special attention to the edges of the plywood. I love the smell of varnish in the morning. I grew up in the family paint manufacturing business and varnish smells like money to me.
Steve

I think the logic behind the black goo goes something like this:

They use a coating like it under cars. The coating is soft so that when rocks fly up and hit it it stops the rock from creating a chip in the paint on the metal on the underside of the car. Car rust underneath. If they use something like it on cars it must be good for any road vehicle. Rocks will fly and act like an underside abrassive over time.

Hi all, I'm new to the forum but I'm just about to do my floor so this is timely. The trailer was not undercoated by the guy who built it so I don't have the luxury of turning the floor upside down to coat the underside. Most of my experience is with cars (50 year old German metal). For most restorations, I've used Wurth undercoating with a spray gun. For the TD, I decided to use Eastwood's Rubberized Undercoating. It's fairly cheap and is available in rattle cans for simple application.
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-rubb ... ating.html

I'm going to apply this week and will post some pics.

Cheers,

Ron

how many cans will it take? could get expensive.

I'm thinking around 3-4 cans. It's a 5x10 trailer.

Cheers,

Ron

Ah great! more choices
Well I'll be undercoating mine in the next few days so here's what I think I'll do
1) Paint the edge s/ open ends of the wood with a wood sealer of some sort
2) caulk all the edges where the plywood meets the frame (so no water can have a chance to sit in there)
3) Then coat it with the White stuff
4) sit back with another beer and contemplate whether or not i did this right.

If I ever figure out how to post pics I'll post some as well. Thanks for now.

rdelmendo wrote:Hi all, I'm new to the forum but I'm just about to do my floor so this is timely. The trailer was not undercoated by the guy who built it so I don't have the luxury of turning the floor upside down to coat the underside. Most of my experience is with cars (50 year old German metal). For most restorations, I've used Wurth undercoating with a spray gun. For the TD, I decided to use Eastwood's Rubberized Undercoating. It's fairly cheap and is available in rattle cans for simple application.
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-rubb ... ating.html

I'm going to apply this week and will post some pics.

Cheers,

Ron

"Adheres easily to metal and fiberglass surfaces..."

No mention of how it adheres to wood, be sure to check that out, there may be a good reason it isn't mentioned.

Eggbert was my 1st build in "07" he has spent each and every day outside in rain, sleet, snow, and baking sun. The last year after donating his frane to my chuckwagon build he has sat flat in the mud and slop. I had reason to move him 4 weeks ago when we were taking down a tree ( didn't want to squash him) and as I moved him I inspected his general condition. Even where he sat in the wet mud and snow here is NO signs of material swelling and he is built primarily with scrap osb.
I mopped on 2 heavy heavy coats of Polar seal inside and out and he looks as good today as when he was built.

P.S. a standard 5x8 5x9 should take just over 2 gallons (exterior and underbelly only)

I used this on my trailer:



Worked really well. I did 2 coats.

stomperxj wrote:I used this on my trailer:



Worked really well. I did 2 coats.

I fibreglassed (Poly resin) the underside of mine with just resin, then sanded, then more poly then glass, then poly then glass. THEN I used the exact same Rustoleum Truck bed liner (2 coats) and it worked great.

The Truck bed liner comes in a small can and was fairly cheap (I think less than $6) and stuck very well to my fibreglassed bottom. I am not sure I would put it directly on wood, but if you poly or fibreglass your wood first, then it is an excellent coating (and it is a nice textured black).