Page 1 of 1

Attaching and trimming alum sides/top

PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 5:04 am
by Glenn Quarles
I have read all of the tips on using alum for the side and top I have seen, but have a few questions I haven't found info on:
-How do you trim the alum to the same size/shape of the sides? I'm thinking router with flush trim bit? Any special bit needed to last?

- Do you put the alum on the sides before or after the trailer is assembled?

- If you use the technique of gluing the alum to the wood, and then the glue breaks loose due to the expansion, what problem does that create? I was thinking I would glue the alum on after the trailer was assembled and then trim it to shape, but don't want to run into problems down the road if/when the glue turns loose (I understand all of the trim, windows, etc will still hold the siding inplace, I'm just wondering if it will wrinkle, buldge, etc).

- Any special glue stands up the expansion problem better than others?

Thanks !
Glenn

PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 2:11 pm
by madjack
Glen, I am in the "floating" school...no adhesive...it is possible to get "oil canning" with an adhesive...I believe Gage uses a cheap contact cement, assuming it will all let go eventually. I cut virtually all piece on the work table and then assemble them, using a few well placed(to be hidden by trim) air driven staple to hold the AL in place until the trim, lights, fenders and such are in place...I did use a router to cut the aluminum(and most everything)...I use templates and a guide bushing...while I use regular carbide bits, they do tend to load up...they make a shear bit with a steeper cutting angle which would probably do better...since the first one, I have gone to using an air powered shear to do this cutting(15bux at Harbor Freight)...much easier and no "aluminum dust"(swerf)with just a little practice, you can cut a fine line with them...some use jig saw with a fine toothed blade and a padded foot(to keep scatching down), I believe Uncle Len(Len10901or ??) uses an air driven jig saw for this...whatever you are comfortable using will probably work
madjack

PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 5:39 pm
by Glenn Quarles
Thanks MadJack, I was hoping you would reply.

Glenn

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:10 am
by aggie79
Glenn,

Early in my build, I made a template from 1/4" mdf to use to layout the sidewalls. When I was ready to cut the sidewall aluminum, I used the template to draw an outline on the back side of the aluminum. (The front side had a protective plastic sheet.)

Image

I then cut the aluminum with a jig saw. The cut line was about 1/4" inside of the template. The "gap" is to allow room for the aluminum to expand and contract some.

Image

With the temperature extremes in Texas, I decided to "float" the aluminum. I did use 3M 4200 around the perimeter to help seal any moisture from seeping underneath the aluminum.

Image

The aluminum was then applied and, like Madjack, I used a few staples to secure it into place, along with blue tape and clamps at the openings.

Image

In this picture, you can see the gap between sheets, the staples holding the aluminum, and squeeze-out from the 3M 4200.

Image

For the smaller openings, like for the vent fan, electrical inlet, etc., I didn't cut those before installing the aluminum. I came back later and made the cuts using a router and a solid carbide "knob" bit.

Image

I do have some oil-canning in the sheets when the temperatures get over 85-degrees, but it isn't that much. So far everything seems to be holding together.

Take care,
Tom

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 11:52 am
by J.Heyboer
Yet another of Tom's posts that I will be bookmarking for later use.

Thanks for the great play by play!

John

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:05 pm
by Glenn Quarles
Thanks again Tom! I had not considered making the alum a bit smaller than the sides...this seems like it will be much easier than gluing it on and then cutting it the exact size.

Glenn