Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm gathering parts to build a Woodie similar to Lens:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/len19070/detail?.dir=ea49&.dnm=64c7.jpg&.src=ph

and need some direction on how to proceed next. So far I've gotten the fenders and a HF trailer and got it put together...

(click for larger pics)



I've never done any jointing in wood so I'm going to have a rather steep learning curve. I plan on sandwiching 1/4" Luan or dark Birch plywood between the outside wood strips and the inside support structure and insulation. Mainly I need to learn an easy way to make the outside pieces so they conform to the outside shape of the TD.

I bought a router and belt sander today, so I'm getting closer. Are those Harbor Freight biscuit-jointers any good?

Any and all suggestions and advice will be greatly appreciated.

Kudos to RW Johnson, I just ordered my fenders on Monday and received them yesterday.

Welcome to the forum.

You should check out Kreg pocket hole jigs. I'm using them on my project with excellent results. Like you, I had no prior joinery experience prior to starting my tear drop. I have a photo slideshow on my web site that shows how they work.

One of the best advantages to this system is the self clamping features. The screws hold the joint together while the glue dries.

Also, if you don't already own one, you'll find that a table saw is very usefull. I wouldn't want to build my trailer with out it.

Good luck. And, please keep us up-to-date on your progress.

i also welcome you to the forum. in building my teardrop i used the biscuit - jointer all of my framing i used it. when joining two woods together using biscuits , the wood is level with one another. comes in real handy if you are splicing plywood together. i used about 300 on my project .works good building cabinets. i used very few screws. they make a very stronge joint. you got alot of glue area. once you get use to it ,it will become a major tool. i wish you luck on your build.

TomS wrote:Welcome to the forum.

Also, if you don't already own one, you'll find that a table saw is very usefull. I wouldn't want to build my trailer with out it.

Thanks! Very informative site. I was planning to use my brand new 3-Horse-router *Home-Improvements Rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr* to cut my doors out. Now I think I'll use the trusty jig-saw instead.

I spent part of today checking out used table saws, as they are much better than the new-mostly-plastic table saws, that are in my price range.

Thanks for the tip about the Kreg system. I'll probably be using a combination of that and biscuit joints. There is a Lowes in my area, and it looks like they carry them.

I wouldn't look down your nose at those pastic table saws. I have owned many different kinds, worked in construction for 50 years, built cabinets for 8 years and unless you are going to need a 240 volt, 2 hp motor and the ability to rip 4x4s with no effort, swing on by Lowes and pick up a Riobi 10" tablesaw, complete with metal stand for about 100 bucks. This saw, which is light enough to move around your shop with one hand, has a neat sliding portion of the sawtable that allows square and multi-angle cuts with ease.

What I like most about it, is that I can rip plywood up to 24" wide, (very important) and has an off-fall extension for longer ripped pieces. I rarely use the 10" blade that came with the saw, (It is just too knarly) I replace it with a thin-kerf, 7 1/4" blade that poses no problem when it gets dull, since it is simply a carbide-tipped skilsaw blade with lots of teeth and is cheap. After making a new table insert to suit the smaller blade, you are ready to get busy building teardrop trailers. In ten years from now, when it wears out, you can replace it with another just like it, reasonably.

Just my 2 cents, and now back to building the 1/4 Nelson Stacker :-)

Roly,

If that's the saw I am thinking of, Steve F bought one of those on clearance from home depot. He burned it up within several months.

But I didn't like it. Everytime I turned it on it jumped and moved several inches. Pretty scary.

I would probably suggest a delta saw for $399, or if you can still find them, a Ryobi BT3100.

But here's another way to pick... check out this table saw article from Mother earth news...
http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/ ... _Table_Saw

Mike...

It jumped on that stand, right? Maybe the stand has to be reinforced/secured somehow. (It looked pretty flimsy.) I know it won't hold up to heavy duty work, but for the occasional builder...

I should have bought that Ryobi when I first started the build, because for a hundred bucks, what the heck. But once I got to a certain point, I figured I didn't need it. (Although of course, I still do.)

I have one of those cheap 10" saws, also.... for the price, it has cut a lot of linear feet of wood, including halving 2x4's to use as studing in my house boat.....

The motor on my brother's burned out, mine is still running after 12 years. He found a source for a new motor for $15.00.... I think he said it was also used in vacuum cleaners....

Anyway, the saw is easily portable, cuts straight enough..... downside, the tilt mechanism on the blade is a pain, but liveable.... and the fence is a grusome chore to adjust..... it binds a lot....

But, if it burned out today, I'd go get another one as soon as possible.

As a "shop teacher" my experience is that the best power tools you can get makes the job much easier, and usually better. It is easier because you are not fighting the limitations of the tool, or machine. The equipment I used for building my TD the most were a hand router, jig saw, table saw, caulk gun, drill/screw gun, cicular saw, tape measure, square, 4' level/straight edge, safety glasses, hand clamps, rachet clamps, metal & wood files. You may be able borrow some of these tools, or even rent them(adds up quickly). My TD has woody sides, I did many, many coats of poly. over a couple of coats of stain. Do not rush, go slow and enjoy the process. Best of luck.

I guess my Ryobi BTS 15 doesn't fit the "jump around when starting" problem. I just ran out and measured the metal base, and the legs are flaired out 31" by 29" and are capped with rubber feet at the bottom. The 15 amp motor is more than enough power for what I use it for. I have used it for hours and hasn't overheated yet. The table top is a big 33 x 36, and being a professional woodworker, I am more than happy with it.

Now, prior to my retirement, I owned a 2 hp, 220volt shop table saw, but now in my little double garage, it would be too big, so it's covered with a tarp in a storage shed. Hey, if you've got the bucks, buy a super-professional model, but with limited funds, I elected the cheaper route. I guess it is kind of like having a high-dollar sewing machine that has all the bells and whistles, then only using it to sew a straight line.

Roly, happy that the thru-the-wall AC unit keeps my shop at 78, while it is 100 degrees outside. Work on the 6 footer can now proceed!

I bought a Ryobi BT3100 a while back at Home Depot for $269 and just love it. It has a lot of really neat features, is very accurate, belt drive, and has great cutting capabilities.
Us BT3 owners even have our own forum

Roly and all,

All of you guys have made great points about how tools do not make the project but the craftsman does make the project. As a former instructor of carpenters and now a contractor for 14+ years, I can tell you that the tools do not make the craftsman. I could show you numerous examples of true craftsman in tiny one car garages, tiny sheds and small basements or no shop at all. I'll give you, it is easier to have a nice space that you can layout and elbow room to move around. A point to consider is keeping cutting tools sharp. If I see anything about guys with little experience in building things they usually purchase decent tools but then don't want to spend $10 on a decent blade to do the job or never change the blade once it is dull. Like Charlie the welder down the road says, " You can't ask a boy to do a man's job."

In our business we do alot of finish work and we need to move "the shop" from job to job. The quality of portable power tools especially table saws is unbelievable. Yeah, sometimes running alot of linear ft. of hardwood thru the smaller saws is a slower process but you have got to run ALOT of material thru that saw. Again, a blade change can do wonders.

Well guys good luck and keep a sharp edge.

Marty

I bought a 10" craftsman with a cast steel top in 1975....I upgraded it with a newer fence..Delta Unifence....definately a plus, notched belt and balanced pulleys and blade stabilizers, nothing special, but most woodworkers would have this stuff...I wouldn't trade it for the $$ for anything new...same original motor..most important....get good blades, keep them sharp....Doug