Spare tire size

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Spare tire size

Postby DudKC » Tue Jun 14, 2011 5:03 pm

I am trying to decide what size spare tire to buy for the teardrop build. Ideally I would like to buy a space saver spare tire, like one you'd find in a vehicle, to save on weight and space. I did a search and this thread seems to tell me that it is ok to do this, and you can't beat junkyard prices.

http://mikenchell.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36219&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=spare+tire+size

As long as it fits inside my wheel wells I should be ok right? Do I have to measure the drum size on my axle to make sure it fits? My 14" wheels and tires have an OD of about 26", so I was thinking I could try to get as close to that as possible in the same bolt pattern. Any advice is much appreciated!

Thanks in advance.
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Postby bdosborn » Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:31 pm

Be aware that trailer hubs are different from auto hubs. Auto wheels are centered on the hub of the wheel. Trailer wheels are centered with the lugs. Also, trailer wheels have zero offset and most auto wheels have some offset. It's been awhile since I read up on all this, you might want to do a forum search on the difference between trailer and auto wheels. It might not be a big deal but you ought to research it.

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Postby dh » Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:30 pm

As long as you don't come accross MAG wheels, and have acorn style lug nuts on the wheel (or at least the proper seats for them), you will be ok using an auto wheel. I would just make sure your hub will fit inside the center hole, same lug pattern, as close to the size (height) of the wheel you will be teporarily be replacing as you can find, and make sure it actually fits. You may run into some funny problems with torsion arm interferiance on a torsion axle.
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Postby DudKC » Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:57 pm

dh wrote:As long as you don't come accross MAG wheels, and have acorn style lug nuts on the wheel (or at least the proper seats for them), you will be ok using an auto wheel. I would just make sure your hub will fit inside the center hole, same lug pattern, as close to the size (height) of the wheel you will be teporarily be replacing as you can find, and make sure it actually fits. You may run into some funny problems with torsion arm interferiance on a torsion axle.


Thanks for the advice! So to clarify you would suggest investing in some acorn style lugs and carry them with me in the camper in case I have to use the spare?
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Postby bdosborn » Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:30 pm

DudKC wrote:Thanks for the advice! So to clarify you would suggest investing in some acorn style lugs and carry them with me in the camper in case I have to use the spare?


I remember what the issue is now. Trailer wheels have tapered lug holes with tapered lug nuts that center the wheel on the hub. An auto wheel doesn't usually have tapered lug holes as the pilot hole in the wheel centers the wheel on the hub. The hub is meant to carry the load and the lugs are meant only to hold the wheel on the hub. Using an auto tire on a trailer hub means the hub isn't carrying the load but the lugs are. This can cause the lugs to come loose as the holes in the wheel aren't meant to carry load.

Loose lug nuts cause a conversation like: "Do you feel that vibration? Must be the road..." It's your WHEEL wallowing out the rim, and the rim wearing the wheel studs thin at the same time. The 'shear' is when the studs get too small to hold the weight.

The good news is that plenty of people on this forum use auto wheels on their teardrops and I can't remember anyone having a wheel fall off. But I have read about it happening on the big RV site. My *guess* is that tears are so much lighter that it isn't a problem like it is with the mega trailers that are right at the ragged edge of wheel/tire capacity. Another reason to stay tiny. :lol:

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Postby dh » Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:08 am

Mag wheels are hub centric and use straight lug nuts. They are uncommon as original equipment.. Most cars have taper lug nuts, as do trailer rims. As stated above, trailer wheels are lug centric, and the hubs are designed to carry the load on the studs. If you put mag wheels on a trailer without an adapter, you will have problems as stated in the above post. Just make sure the lug nut seats on the rim are tapered to accept a tapered lug nut.
Last edited by dh on Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:50 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby dh » Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:15 am

Nope, your trailer hub should already have the tapered acorn style lug nuts on it. When going to an aluminum rim (I have yet to see an aluminum compact spare) you may need a special oversized taper, where the taper is larger than the lug nut body, but for a steel rim plain old acorn lugnuts will do.


DudKC wrote:
dh wrote:As long as you don't come accross MAG wheels, and have acorn style lug nuts on the wheel (or at least the proper seats for them), you will be ok using an auto wheel. I would just make sure your hub will fit inside the center hole, same lug pattern, as close to the size (height) of the wheel you will be teporarily be replacing as you can find, and make sure it actually fits. You may run into some funny problems with torsion arm interferiance on a torsion axle.


Thanks for the advice! So to clarify you would suggest investing in some acorn style lugs and carry them with me in the camper in case I have to use the spare?
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Postby bobhenry » Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:47 am

My teardrop has 12" 4 on 4 1/2" and yet I carry my 8 inch "space saver spare" to limp down the road a few miles to get help if needed.

My Barn has 13" 5 on 4 1/2 rims and yet I carry a 8" tire and rim to fit it's bolt pattern also.

They save a lot of room. I did looked kinda funny limping into the spring 08 gathering on a 12" and and 8" tire but ya know what , we got there ! :D
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Postby doug hodder » Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:32 am

Like Bob...I have 1 spare tire that fits all my trailers. It's a 13"...not the same size, but it'll get you there. I usually only haul it for a run like to the Redwoods...it spends a lot of time in the shed. Doug
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Postby dh » Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:54 am

Hey Doug, are you running brakes? (I know Bob isn't) If so, does that affect the trailer breaking? Op mentions a break drum... If it doesn't, life just got a little easier.
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Postby doug hodder » Wed Jun 15, 2011 10:53 pm

No brakes....on any of mine. Doug
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Postby DudKC » Thu Jun 16, 2011 9:30 pm

I went to the junkyard today. I almost had a donut picked out, but then I talked to a guy who said he wouldn't carry a donut for his camper (a much larger camper, which may discount his advice), because it would make it pull funny if you ever had to use it. I wasn't sure if it was going to fit over the grease hub, which added to why I didn't buy it. I know people on here said it was ok and some have even had to use them before with no problems. They're only $10, should I just take the chance and get one if I'm sure it's going to fit over the grease hub?
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Postby dh » Fri Jun 17, 2011 10:59 am

Will the junk yard take it back? Some will, some won't. Try it out, take it home, put it on and tow it a little to see how it handles. Don't like it, take it back. Do you already have one in your car? Might try that one first. Heck, your TV spare might work so you don't need a spare for the trailer at all.
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Postby DudKC » Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:41 pm

dh wrote:Will the junk yard take it back? Some will, some won't. Try it out, take it home, put it on and tow it a little to see how it handles. Don't like it, take it back. Do you already have one in your car? Might try that one first. Heck, your TV spare might work so you don't need a spare for the trailer at all.


I installed my wiring harness last night and saw that my TV spare might just work so I will probably test it out sometime.

Thanks for all the advice.
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