Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I was looking at Gypsy Wagons tonight and was wondering if one could be built, then painted or stained, and then taken to your local Maaco and have then shoot like three coats of clear coat on it, would that work?

Thomas,

I can't help you out on this, but am interested in hearing some responses.

Take care,
Tom

I suppose it could be done, provided that you sprayed or painted/stained the trailer out in a compatible product. You can't spray clear on just anything. Some paints will lift.

I'd check with the clear manufacturer on just what it will and won't go over. An expensive lesson if it doesn't work. I also believe that Maaco has their own paint system products, and while it may be similar, it may not be the same critter as some of the more recognized manufacturers clear coats. You can pick up cut sheets with info from a local automobile paint supplier. Doug

Good points Doug!

What about a spar urethane type product in a spray can? In my experiance, UV + Stained wood is a bad combo and the color doesn't last, I don't think automotive clears offer UV protection.

dh wrote: I don't think automotive clears offer UV protection.

...thinkaboutit..........................................................................................

dh wrote:I don't think automotive clears offer UV protection.

ummm....that is exactly what the clear is for, along with abrasion resistance, and to provide the shine...

2bits, you can prime and paint wood with standard auto paint products. If you decide to go this route, check into the House of Kolor products. Amazing colors and by far the best clear out there IMHO.

If you take your time and be careful, you can do the painting yourself, as long as you have or get a compressor and gun. You can buy a decent, cheap gun at Harbour Freight.

Auto clear pretty much needs to have a nice smooth completely sealed surface to lay down on for maximum performance. Meaning...if it's not completely sealed or epoxy coated out and sanded, the finish won't be all that smooth and those spots will fail.

On a gypsy wagon or Vardo, it kinda depends on just how much "gingerbread" you are putting on it as to whether or not auto clear might work for you. It might just be that a brush with a couple of heavier coats of a spar urethane might be the best economical method and would be in keeping with the overall build method and appearance. Trying to shoot auto clear into nooks and crannies depending on your design will be tough.

I may be completely wet on this, and maybe someone like Parnold can correct me...but basically when you shoot a base/clear finish...you put down the paint and lay it on to give it the even color. If it's a metallic, you make it look even with the flake...when dry...it's flat or matte finish. The clear is your 2nd chance to make it look good. The clear is the protection and the gloss. If you have crappy color and poor prep work....with the clear...all you get is a crappy shiny finish. Any completely unsealed/sanded wood will suck it up and leave funky patches. Clear hides nothing, that's why they call it clear.

Things like roof overhang and scroll work will be a challenge to do with a sprayed clear finish. Keeping a wet edge would be a bear.

I'm thinking of a fairly detailed Vardo however. You know...all the scroll and gingerbread work on it. If it's just a basic profile and not much else, you could probably get away with it. Based on the price...I'd pass on it though. Just my opinion. Doug

Thomas,

I've been experimenting with another setup that so seems promising and may work for you. I found one of those cheap Wagner turbine sprayer kits on close-out for $40. There was some leftover Emtech EM9300 urethane coating that I used to top coat my tongue box. It shot out really well with the Wagner on some test pieces. I plan to use that combo on my cabinets.

Take care,
Tom

We shot urethanes and varnishes with paint guns in school, it worked well, the Wagoner sounds like it could work, me neighbor puts a coat of sealant on his fence every few years with a Wagoner.

Oh, I know clear is UV stable, but how well would it protect stain under it from UV? Base/clear finishes still fade in the sun.

dh wrote:...but how well would it protect stain under it from UV? Base/clear finishes still fade in the sun.

Automotive clear will offer the same protection to the stain as it does base coat pigment.

Fading is a thing of the past unless you park outside 365 days a year in the desert. Today's products are so much better than the products of even 10 years ago.

CARS wrote:

dh wrote:...but how well would it protect stain under it from UV? Base/clear finishes still fade in the sun.

Automotive clear will offer the same protection to the stain as it does base coat pigment.

Fading is a thing of the past unless you park outside 365 days a year in the desert. Today's products are so much better than the products of even 10 years ago.

Good to know, I haven't painted a car (I've done lotsa trailers etc though) since the mid 90's, it was base/clear, and the base was UV stable on its own, and I still put a good UV inhibitive wax on it to this day.