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couple of epoxy/roof skin questions

PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 10:14 pm
by Aaron Coffee
I plan on at the least sealing the edges of the roof skin with epoxy. Will the epoxy stiffen the roof skin (planning on using paneling/plywood, unless I can find thin plywood locally)? I have pretty tight radius so if it will stiffen the roof skin I will epoxy after it is installed.
Also I will have at least one seam, how do I seal the seams, thinking epoxy and fiberglass tape, if this is right where and what do I get as far as fiberglass tape?
Thanks
Aaron

PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 1:05 am
by dh
Yes, the epoxy will harden into a solid plastic material. You can actually pop it off if you coat a sheet then try to bend it. On the seams, I'm using proper planning to ensure the seams land on spars, no reinforcing tape needed. Just apply a single coat of epoxy to the seam, add some micorbaloon filler to make a fairing compound and blend the seam like you would with Bondo. Then seal with epoxy like you would the rest of the roof. This will not be pretty on a woody, but is just fine on a painted trailer.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 2:57 am
by madjack
...yep, to what dh said...I too, use all wood 1/8th paneling...usually birch, available from the box stores for under 20bux/sheet...works for me but, will only take adhesive on one side.........
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 3:29 pm
by Aaron Coffee
yes will be making sure the seam falls on a spar.Thanks
Aaron

PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 3:49 pm
by Aaron Coffee
madjack,
couple questionns. Which side do you put down, the paneling side or the ply side, the real wood side or the fake wood side, if the fake would side what do you use to seal the skin to the sidewalls? my side walls are epoxied on the outisde and edges.
Thanks
Aaron

PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 7:03 pm
by madjack
...for all intents and purposes, you can't use an adhesive reliably on the "show" side of paneling due to the finish...I'm not exactly sure of your second question...I do not glue the AL skins to anything, I float them and allow the fenders, trim, windows, light's, etc to capture and hold them in place.................
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:41 am
by jmedclay
My plan is similar to the OP in that I'll radius all of the perimeter edges of the cabin, fair as necessary with epoxy+microballons, coat with epoxy penetrant/sealer (all surfaces), rough the wood and then laminate a strip of fiberglass to the cabin edges with epoxy resin. All of my joints are made into solid lumber that is continuous around the perimeter. Still, the glass/epoxy encapsulation seems like a good way to increase joint competence and minimize the likelihood of cracking and water absorption. Aside from possible overkill and labor, is there a functional downside? I always thought that epoxy to roughed up wood, well squeeged in, constituted a very strong bond that wouldn't "pop off".

I figure water is the enemy, and will go to substantial trouble to keep it from finding a way in, including sealing all exterior holes (screw holes, power entry hole, whatever), areas well inside of/adjacent to my door jambs, etc. Seems the OP is on a similar track with similar ideas.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:31 am
by tvlawyer
My TD is now covered with 1/8 luan and the time for aluminum is approaching. Can someone recommend an epoxy for sealing luan seams, roof edges, and filling screw holes? I do have a West Marine nearby in case they have a recommended product. .

Thanks

Larry.