Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

What’s the best thickness for a template, to router cut the sides and doors?

Raul

I used a 1/4" piece of masonite. $13 for a 4' x 8' at the Depot.

I also used 1/4 inch hardboard (Masonite). Since our teardrop's walls are 4'X10', I had to splice on a two foot extension to a 4x8 sheet in order to make a full sized template. To make the splice, I butted and glued the 2'X4' sheet on the end of the 4'X8' sheet. I then glued and braded a 4 inch by 3 foot strip over the joint. This allowed enough room for the router to glide past the splice without getting hung up on the gusset.

...we used 1/2 MDF for all our templates so as to get the extra shoulder for the bushing/bearing to ride on
madjack

When working in my woodshop, I find the following to work best for me: When using a router-base bushing, 1/4" templates are adequate. (template against the router base) The cutter can be raised or lowered to access a clean cutting edge. However, when using a cutter with a bearing on the end, 1/2" templates (part being cut, against the router base) allow for changing the cutter surface to keep a sharp edge. Does any of that make sense?

I used a 1/4 template and wished I'd used 1/2.

The 1/4 was a little too flexible when cutting on saw horses.
If doing a 10ft sidewall template 1/4 is harder to join than 1/2.
I used a top bearing bit, if there was any veritcal movement, you can easily have a miscut and cut your template. At least I have defects at the same place on all my pieces.

Ahhhhhhh, the top bearing bit. Forgot to mention that one because I don't have any.

I used a 1/4" piece of masonite. $13 for a 4' x 8' at the Depot.

1/4 in luan is $9.98 a sheet at HD

raul as you can tell we all use different type of materail and different thickness. they all work well. the biggest thing about jigs, is when you cut out your jig to spend time to make sure that the edges are smooth and no dips. the edge needs to be as prefect as you can get it. your finial peace that you make with the jig, will show how you prepared your jigs. i really like working with jigs. i now have a complete set of jigs for my teadrop.

Besides getting all of the problems worked out and have a perfect (I hope) shape for the real sides, I have another reason for making a template. My trailer framing will be more complex than a TD, as I will have cabinetry and sheliving in both front and rear to mount, and will need identical framing pieces on both sides. When I make the template, I'll "mark" the outlines of the framing pieces on the template with 1/8" holes drilled along the edges of the framing placement so I can put pencil marks on the finished sides to draw the outlines of the framing pieces for gluing. Both sides will have the framing pieces atttached in the same exact places. I also plan to use screws with the glue to attach the framing pieces. I'll drill 1/4" holes in my template where the holes should go in from the outside of the side pieces. After making the framing outlines, I'll put the template on the outside of the side piece and use the 1/4" holes to mark the places to predrill and countersink for the screws, so I'll know that I am putting the screws into a framing piece, not empty space.

And, I'm hoping that I'll get the same results others have gotten when showing off their trailers, and have someone ask me to build them one like mine. I'll have the template all ready.

The template I built for the 'diner projects was 4-1/2 by 11 feet. I had to splice the pieces like Michael did. So, I made it two layers of 1/4" luan from H/D. The template lasted well. I also used it to assemble the wall framing, Asian Flava-style!! I also made jigs for the other parts. In fact, I still plan to use it them...anyone want a lil'Diner??

I hadn't planned to splice my template sections. Since there would be 3 sections of template, and 3 sheets of plywood for each side, I planned to only to put each template section separately on top of two sheets of 1/4" plywood and cut only that one section for both sides, repeating for the other two template sections. That way, I would only be working with a 4'x8' stack of plywood and template, not having to support and work with the entire 11 1/2' length. I will use my brad nailer to hold the 3 pieces together as brad holes are much smallerand easier to patch than screw holes.