Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I have the trailer below:


Does anyone know how to get a jack on the tongue that won't twist? Due to the A-Frame design of the tongue, the jack I have causes the unsupported side of the tongue to droop.

Perhaps a scissor jack under the A-Frame crosspiece?

Where along the tongue did you put the jack, so that you experience the twisting? Move it as close to the coupler as possible, and this should virtually eliminate any twisting.

I had my tongue jack on the stock HF trailer tongue for over 2,000 miles, and it held up well.

Here's where my tongue jack was....


Recently though, I did extend my tongue using 2x2 tube steel, and relocated the tongue jack. $32 worth of steel, $20 for a new coupler (or you can shim the original), plus the bolts and paint.

(Not quite finished painting in this pic)

How elaborite do you wanna get?

You could put a plate accross the tongue members right behind the coupler and mount an A-frame jack in the plate...

The problem with a side mount jack on a frame like that is that it is further away from the center line of balance on the trailer. Those stamped or extruded C channels like to twist and typically it's twisting out on the bottom, since it spends a lot of time just sitting and that's the direction of least resistance.

You could install another piece of material like an angle iron on the bottom portion of the channel and mount the jack right at that spot so that it will pull on the other side of the A as well. Keeping it as close to the coupler is always a good idea as that's the easiest way to keep it closer to the balance point.

All this is based on the HF frames that I've seen with "leaning" tongue wheels. Once finished and loaded, trying to move one across some dirt or gravel of a camping site you'll see just how much it can move.

slowcowboy wrote:zack. I see what looks like a button on tonnoe cover on the roof of your teardrop....

Slow,

Sounds like we got the same "plans". Not sure how you felt about them, but I thought they were better off being used for kindling. It did give me the idea for the snap off roof, but other than that I started from scratch. After hanging out on this site, I drew up my own design on the computer, and built from that. That set of "plans" from ebay is what motivated me to write and publish my own construction guide, and start my website. I can guarantee My plans are about 9723% better than the fleabay set. Those were a bad joke.

My whole roof can either be rolled back, or the whole top can come off, including that blue and white fan cover. There's more pictures in the links in my signature.

I absolutely love the convertible top, and my next trailer will be a convertible also!

/thread hijack

Slow, I like the hitch you used. Any closer pictures of how you modified it to fit your HF trailer?

thanks
deryk

Deryk the Pirate wrote:Slow, I like the hitch you used. Any closer pictures of how you modified it to fit your HF trailer?

thanks
deryk

Just unbolt the original HF coupler and weld it directlr to the frame rails, no modification needed. It already has the holes to bolt on the A-frame jack. Any farm supply place or trailer supply place should have the coupler (and the jack) sitting on the shelf.

Another solution - install a 1/4" aluminum plate to the tonge crossmembers and mount a regular trailer jack. I had to shorten the jack with a hacksaw by 4" to obtain the desired ground clearance. The jack is positioned far enough aft of the coupler to be clear of my cars hatch and pickup's tailgate when opened, with the trailer hitched up.

Just curious, any reason you went with aluminum over steel?

I got it fixed thanks to a neighbor who knows how to weld.


I took the jack I had off the swing-up plate mechanism and welded it to the back of the square tube on the tongue. No more twisting and I was able to use the jack I already had! The downside is that with the 6" wheel I only had about 5" of clearance which wasn't enough it so I had to cut the wheel off. Now it's basically a bulldog jack but no need to buy another jack and receiver.

I'll miss the wheel, but the bulldog style jacks never have one either.

dh wrote:How elaborite do you wanna get?

You could put a plate accross the tongue members right behind the coupler and mount an A-frame jack in the plate...

Hey dh, just wanted to point out that the plate suggestion and the a-frame coupler are both excellent suggestions. I only went with what I did because it didn't require buying anything else.

101camper wrote:Another solution - install a 1/4" aluminum plate to the tonge crossmembers and mount a regular trailer jack. I had to shorten the jack with a hacksaw by 4" to obtain the desired ground clearance. The jack is positioned far enough aft of the coupler to be clear of my cars hatch and pickup's tailgate when opened, with the trailer hitched up.

101, excellent implementation of that plate. It looks great and didn't require any welding, only 2 new holes for the bolts at the rear. I probably would have done that if I didn't have a neighbor with a welder.

Also, I haven't checked yet if I can open the hatch on my car with the jack welded on so close to the coupler, oops!

dh wrote:Just curious, any reason you went with aluminum over steel?

The aluminum was free from the recycle bin! Easy to cut with a bandsaw and holesaw, and I do not weld. Most vehicle hatches will clear the normal jack position, i think. My hatch is very tall, and needed a bit more clearance.

Well I picked up the new hitch this weekend and new jack. Not sure when Im gonna have time to install it. I dont have easy access to a welder so was thinking of bolting it on. Only 2 bolts hold on the HF one, so if I used the 6 holes ( 3 on each side on the top) and maybe a few pieces of metal across the bottom.... any opinions?

deryk