Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

i'm confused about something. i've tried to read as much as possible on here about waterproofing with epoxy and much of that has talked about really soaking the wood with it (especially the edges, etc...) but i'm not sure if that's more for building a 'woody' or what because i'm gonna be hitting mine with several layers of primer & exterior paint.

i just received 3 gallons of aeromarine 300/21 epoxy resin & based on their site it looks like this stuff basically hardens like plastic.

am i assuming correctly that i use this over the paint? or am i supposed to soak/coat the bare wood with the epoxy then paint over that?

i'd really like it to have a glossy plastic shell when i'm done.

any advice appreciated, because sometimes all the info on here makes my head spin


thanks!
kent


http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/

this specifically on amazon

Normally the epoxy resin would be the initial coats, with the paint going over the top of that, mainly due to the fact that most epoxy resins are not UV resistant.

I could not find a tech data sheet on the AeroMarine web site, but from it's suggested uses, it seems as if it must be UV resistant. As long as it is UV resistant, you can do your application in whatever order pleases you. The only consideration is adhesion. Example.. if the epoxy adheres better to the wood than the paint, and the paint adheres better to epoxy than wood.. then epoxy first, paint second. As long as the wood is dry, either paint or epoxy should have no problem adhering.. so again.. do whatever pleases you.

Just check the UV resistance, unless of course the trailer will be garage kept and only out in the sun a couple weeks a year.

thanks Paul!

i'll call them today to find out about the UV thing, because i'm hoping (fingers crossed) to get A LOT done the next 3 days


kent

i actually just found this on their site...

Q: Is it UV resistant?
A: The 300/21 cycloaliphatic system has better UV resistance than any other epoxy, but it's not perfect. It should be painted or varnished with a UV resistant paint/varnish if used as a coating or laminating resin exposed to direct sunlight for a long time.


kent

Make sure your paint system and epoxy are compatable. I heard a horror story at the marine supply place about a customer that built a boat, epoxied it, and paid for a professional hot rod flame job at a local body shop. Paint wasn't compatable and litterally washed off as the boat was being launched.

Yes, double check your paint, and it's use with Epoxy. Almost any paint is compatible with fully cured (weeks) epoxy that is prepared correctly (sanded). I've been in the automotive paint business for years, and the boat story is most likely due to incorrect application. Incompatability is a great excuse for lack of preperation, or lack of following instructions. When something goes wrong, it's always the paints fault!

i talked with one of the guys at aeromarine & he said the same thing... epoxy first then sand lightly with 320 grit & basically any paint will work (though an epoxy based paint would be the best...)

in any case, i will definitely be testing on a scrap first.

thanks much for the info guys!


kent

Kent:

You said you're hoping to accomplish alot in the next few days.. let me offer you this word of warning. After you have applied the epoxy resin, and you think it is dry, put your nose right up to it. If you can smell it, it is still off gassing solvents. Some paints will be prone to problems with this, and the problems that may arise, will not be immediate.

Err on the side of safety. The paint you use will trap the solvents between it and the epoxy, and that can give you problems. I used fiberglass resin myself, not epoxy, but allowed a full weeks cure between last resin coat, and first application of paint. I used an epoxy primer first, then top coated with acrylic enamel. Primer and paint were the same day, both automotive grade.

Kent, over the next 3 days, you could PROBABLY get your epoxy done...don't even think of the paint for another week...especially of planing on using some sort of house paint to cover it with(gawd, I hate house paint on tears).........
madjack

regarding this weekend, i still have more building to do but figured i might start epoxying the sides, doors etc & let it dry while i work on other/ electrical/ galley/ hatch stuff... when i start building something i tend to get fixated on it & have trouble sitting idle.

can you get automotive paint in gallon cans or whatever or does it need to be sprayed? i haven't actually bought paint for the outside at this point so i'm not committed to anything yet... i just figured if exterior house paint works on houses that's what i should use, but i'm always open to better suggestions.

thanks for the guidance! you guys rock!

kent

Check out this thread, 4th post down:

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... ht=valspar

List of available colors here:

http://valsparglobal.com/val/resident/valspar_imp.jsp

wow, that finish looks awesome! now to see if i can find any locally...

thanks for the link larry


kent

Kent TSC carries it and if you to there website and look up that paint you and put your zip in will list the price.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/agriculture-farming-ranching/tractor-tune-up-repair/tractor-paint-safety-emblems-decals/tractor-paint/

I can't remember what Starleen said but I think its an Oil based enamel and he painted it on epoxy after he used fiberglass tape on the seams. I'm planning on doing this on mine when it comes time as its $53 a gallon here locally in either a Fordor Massey Ferguson Red Gloss or Ford Blue.

Cliff

thanks cliff!

the collective knowledge & advice sharing on this site is mind blowingly awesome!


kent

I am also a paint guy by trade. All that has been said is true. However if you use that industrial paint from Tractor Supply and you store your tear outside, uncovered you will be disappointed with the longevity of the paint. Store it inside or cover it and you will probably be happy. Oil paints in that price range lose their sheen and color in one year of sun.