Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I searched and searched and couldn't find a previous post for spar varnish, that was sprayable. There was a paint store not to far away that was a dealer, but don't remember the name of the product, or the name of the store.
I guess what I should ask is what will be a good spar varnish that is not too costly (under $150 to do both sides)? And what is a good product for a rank amatuer? I have painted a few race cars, but runs, drips etc, weren't that major of a problem. Should I forget sparying and just brush, roller? The sides are already epoxied and sanded.
Help
Aaron

Whats wrong with Minwax Helmsman? It is tough as nails and is UV protective and is only about 30 bucks a gallon.

Maybe its just me, but I had nothing but problems with minwax. But I was brushing it on. orange peeled like crazy. Had better luck with man o war, but it is more pricey, of course.

I used min wax quick dry poly on the cabinets, and didn't like it, seemed to thin. I am kind of leaning towards Cabots, because it is available locally and some of the higher priced stuff looks like it requires a hardener and I have never really used anything requires x parts to y parts, except the epoxy, but 2to1 is an easy ratio, especially when it uses pumps. The race cars I painted used farm and implement painted just thinned down enough to spray. Also my air comprosser bit the bullet so that would be anoher expense.

Thanks
Aaron

I used the Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. I brushed it on the interior face of my walls, and the exposed roof spars, and its held up great.

I sprayed it on my back "bumper" and had to reapply it this summer. The oak "bumper" was starting to show signs of weathering in a few spots. Maybe I didn't apply enough coats on it the first time.

I'll be using the same brush-on spar urethane on my new build.

Aaron,
Do yourself a favor, and buy a high quality marine spar vanish. The big box paints and varnishes are all crap!!

Here is one supplier that carries the best brands:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Varnish&category=36&refine=1&page=GRID

I personally use Z-Spar Captain's or Flagship varnish's on my boats.

Larry C

I agree with Larry C. There no good cheap clear ext finish. Even some of the expensive ones are no good. Buy the best you can afford and keep the tear out of the sun as much as possible.

Is there a water based spar urethane?

I heard someone used water based poly, and cleanup was nice and easy, but I don't remember if it was interior or exterior.

Mike...

mikeschn wrote:Is there a water based spar urethane?

I heard someone used water based poly, and cleanup was nice and easy, but I don't remember if it was interior or exterior.

Mike...

Here's one:


http://www.admiraltymarinecoatings.com/varnish/varnish.html

Mike,
I am from the school that believes you can't get something for nothing. I like things that make life easier just like everybody, However I know from my personal experience that using the best finish coatings for the specific job no matter how much work and effort is required always pays off in the end.

My experience with clear coatings is mostly from small boat building. The number one thing that I learned early on is to avoid "Polyurethane" on anything that flexes and moves. I found it tends to crack easily, and is difficult to sand for recoat/repair.

The high quality traditional marine spar varnishes have good UV resistance, and don't crack from movement. They survive direct sun exposure, and most of all, are easy to sand and apply a fresh coat of UV protection.

All the modern coatings have their place, including PU, 2 part PU, and automotive clear coats. However, High quality marine spar varnishes and paints are designed for wood exposed to the elements with the least problems with recoating or repairing in the future.

Here's some info from a marine coatings supplier on the subject:

Choosing The Right Varnish

Quality marine varnishes fall into 2 basic categories, modern hard varnishes and traditional spar varnishes. The choice boils down to two main considerations: How stable is the wood you are coating? If it is prone to movement, such as a spar, old clinker, or carvel planked boat, traditional varnish is the right choice. If the piece is more stable and inert, a harder modern finish is also an option.

While modern finishes resist wear better, they are also harder to remove when you recoat. Some require strict temperatures and conditions for application that may not suit a boat out in the open. Traditional marine varnishes apply easily but typically have a longer cure time. Higher tung oil content provides a beautiful golden hue and that almost-wet appearing gloss. Traditional varnish builds on top of wood surface with minimal penetration, making it easiest to remove when the time comes.

Larry C