Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

This may be a dumb question, but its only a dumb question to someone who already knows the answer.

I'm shopping for hatch latches for my next teardrop, and there is a HUGE difference in price for the same latch made with different metals:

Chrome-plated die-cast zinc, $31.32



316 Stainless Steel, $97.10



How durable is chrome-plated die-cast zinc compared to stainless steel, for teardrop trailer purposes? If I were building a boat for use in saltwater, then I'd probably spend the extra cash and go for stainless steel. But I doubt you'll find my teardrop floating in the Pacific Ocean anytime soon.

So.... educated opinions on the two metals, as applied to teardrop trailer construction?

What is an example of something that is chrome-plated die-cast zinc?

Thanks, oh knowledgeable ones!

Zach,

I would first question that they are "the same"?
Somewhat similar in appearance at first glance, but vastly different when inspected closely.

Die cast Zinc, compared to stainless steel, is very weak.

Chrome won't last as long as stainless.

The workmanship/appearance in the stainless latch pictured is much nicer.

There appears to be a big difference in the lock cylinder.

I think a hundred dollars is kinda steep...but as always, you get what you pay for, when you research the products you are buying.

Rob

http://www.zinc-diecasting.info/zdc-PDF ... nishes.pdf

Is die cast zinc what is referred to as pot metal, if so look at die cast chrome parts off of 50's 60's cars, it pits, and some of the cheaper stuff the chrome peels off.

Aaron, got it in one. There are other much less expensive alternatives, I am going through this exercise my self as we have a galley latch that lets lose with great regularity even when locked. One of the parent suppliers is Southco http://www.southco.com/browse/panel-doo ... -7315.html

I'd think that with some regular maintenance, cleaning waxing oiling, the plated zinc would be fine. There are millions of old cars running around with cast zinc door handles, trunk handles/hinges etc. I've got a 40 Ford handle and a 48 Plymouth trunk light on the hatch... 50 Ply. hood ornament on the front and 2 33 Ford door handles all in the plated zinc. While plating now isn't the same critter as it was back in the 40's....all of it is holding up very well, some of it is original plating.

How long it lasts depends on how you take care of it. I'd make sure that the latch is installed correctly as any misalignment or extra reach on the latch when locking will cause stress on the casting. If your plan is to use the latch to suck it down on the weatherstripping, you might want to go with the stainless. I've found that the hatch weight and 2 32 Ford hood latches works fine to compress the stripping though. It locks through the center 40 Ford handle. I'd pass on it, but others opinions will vary. Doug

Thanks for some insight guys!

Rob, you're right that the latches aren't entirely identical, and I'm guessing thats possibly due to different manufacturing processes used for cast-zinc vs stainless steel? The stainless steel does look a bit more robust. However, the maximum load provided for the stainless is the same as the die-cast zinc: 270lbs.

SC - the latches I posted are actually from Southco. Its their V7 over-center draw latches. I've also found them under the name Battalion.

Doug, thats what I'm planning on using them for - to draw the hatch tight against the seals. With that maximum working load of 270lbs, I dont think there would be much flex of the casting. But I dont know. Thats why I'm asking you guys

One thought that keeps going through my mind, is that even at $31/each, the chromed zinc aren't exactly the cheap way out. Also, the parts rep. said that the package weight for estimating shipment for 2 of the zinc ones would be 2lbs. So they aren't exactly feathers.

At 270# working load, you ought to be fine....I've done cast/plated stuff on boats, but they are fresh water ones...wouldn't do it on a salt water one, they ought to have stainless. Since they're rated the same.... for me, it'd be hard to justify the extra 60$. I think that nice hardware makes a build look like it was thought out and planned. To me, cheap hardware always looks that way, it's just a little detail but says a lot about the build. Doug

doug hodder wrote:At 270# working load, you ought to be fine....I've done cast/plated stuff on boats, but they are fresh water ones...wouldn't do it on a salt water one, they ought to have stainless. Since they're rated the same.... for me, it'd be hard to justify the extra 60$. I think that nice hardware makes a build look like it was thought out and planned. To me, cheap hardware always looks that way, it's just a little detail but says a lot about the build. Doug

Thanks so much Doug. You're post pretty much matched what I have been thinking.

When I first built my last trailer. I indulged and spent $4.76 on a pair of draw latches from Lowes. They were junk to begin with, but at the time they served their purpose, and I really didnt do much research to know what I needed or wanted. I was never really satisfied with them.

Then somebody posted up these nice 316 SS latches, which I LOVE. Reg price $64.99 / Sale price $12.99 (although they've been 'on sale' for over a year now)



But I still needed a small padlock to lock them, and since the fasteners arent concealed, its not even technically locked.

I believe I will order the die-cast zinc that I first mentioned, and give them a shot.

Thanks again. Once I place my order in a few weeks and receive the latches, I'll certainly follow up here and post a review.

doug hodder wrote:I'd think that with some regular maintenance, cleaning waxing oiling, the plated zinc would be fine.

Agreed. If you moored your TD in an ocean marina, I'd say stainless would be worth the investment. Otherwise not.

One thing to think about with using these is how they mount and the mounting hardware. I would think that you might want to use nuts and bolts with a backing plate to limit the chance of a screw pulling out or loosening up. The decision is yours and my idea may be overkill but that is how I would do it.

Rick - Certainly a good suggestion, but my situation doesnt allow for a backing plate where it would be needed most. I would only be able to use it on the main latch, which is secured with 4 screws. The "keeper" as they call it, is only secured with 2 screws, and in my situation would not be able to have the backer plate.

Here is my current setup, and the new trailer will be the same, with the latch on the trailer and the keeper on the "bumper".



I believe I used 1" stainless steel screws to mount this one, and it has held up very well.

Stainless steel fitting at only 3x the price of the Zinc alloy? The same rating and not 10x stronger?

I doubt its really stainless. That stuff normally needs to be machined from solid and machining stainless is not for the faint of heart. Nor is getting a real shine polished into a curvy machined piece of stainless.

I have NEVER seen a lock in full-on stainless. Stainless casings, sleeves, levers and shackles - yes. Stamped and cut sheet, cut and formed rod yes, intricate machined casings - not.

Zinc alloy is the main manufacturing material for cast locking mechanisms, handles and fittings. While not nearly as strong as cast brass or machined stainless, there are millions of cast zinc alloy items on cars, homes, trailers and trucks still going strong after decades of heavy use.

I would go for the less pricey one if it looks and feels solid, well built, well finished and completely and evenly plated.

absolutsnwbrdr wrote: But I doubt you'll find my teardrop floating in the Pacific Ocean anytime soon.

With all the weather/natural disasters happening lately, you never know

dh wrote:

absolutsnwbrdr wrote: But I doubt you'll find my teardrop floating in the Pacific Ocean anytime soon.

With all the weather/natural disasters happening lately, you never know

Maybe I should install floaties AND use stainless steel.

absolutsnwbrdr wrote: But I doubt you'll find my teardrop floating in the Pacific Ocean anytime soon.

Yes, but it's nice to keep your options open.

As has been pointed out, plated die cast was the std for a lot of car hardware for decades. It will, though, not last forever. I just fabricated a wind wing hinge part for a 1951 Olds 88 that was plated pot metal (it broke). I duplicated it in SS and it will outlast rest of the car.

Just because you can see the screw heads, it doesn't follow that they can always be removed. If you through bolt the hardware and double nut the inside you can turn the screw head till the "warm place freezes over" and you still won't get the hardware off.

IMHO the prime consideration is strength.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus