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Titebond III VS Gorilla Glue

Posted:
Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:06 pm
by stu_stumble
In all your guys and gals vast knowledge of Tear construction, what would you say is the best glue to use for constructing you Teardrop.
Titebond III or Gorilla Glue
Or is there a better glue to use between the joints in teardrop construction.
TIA to all who answer this.


Posted:
Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:34 pm
by S. Heisley
That is almost like asking what style of teardrop or TTT you should make.
Many people will have a different answer. The threads on this go on and on. Here are just a few:
http://tnttt.com/viewto ... light=glue
http://tnttt.com/viewto ... light=glue
http://tnttt.com/viewto ... light=glue
Add to that, it depends on what you are doing when and with what materials.
Cold weather gluing:
http://tnttt.com/viewto ... light=glue
Glue this to that; what glue to use:
http://www.thistothat.com/
Glue and epoxy:
http://tnttt.com/viewto ... light=glue

Posted:
Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:38 pm
by stu_stumble
Thanks Sharon. Appreciate the guidance on the threads. I am sure folks have their opinions on this. Just wanted to get some advice since Im new at this.

Posted:
Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:41 pm
by S. Heisley
PS. For bare wood to bare wood gluing, my favorite is TitebondIII. The wood will usually break before the bond does:
For epoxied wood, I use PL Construction glue.
...Hope that helps.

Posted:
Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:43 pm
by stu_stumble
That helps alot. I really appreciate it. I am amazed at how nice people are on these forums. I use to be on a forum for building engines as I have a mustang project I was working on and boy those folks were rude. I guess they figured everyone was a master mechanic.
So thanks for the patience and the understanding with my simple questions.

Posted:
Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:27 pm
by gww25
Titebond II and III are both the same basic formulation but supposedly the III has a longer open working time. Many of my boat building friends still think Titebond II is better and bonds stronger. I have mixed opinion since a lot depends on the species of wood you're bonding. The poly glues also work well but tend to need more care in preping the joints to get really good adhesion. Do some research on Gorilla glue as it has been the subject of a lot of debate on woodworking forums. Titebond poly is a better product in my personal opinion ig you want to use a polyurethane adhesive. It's really hard to beat Titebond II for a general purpose adhesive that cures within a few hours if it's warm outside.

Posted:
Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:14 am
by hoytedow
You will find a wealth of information here:
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/wooden ... 27019.html
I find TB II adequate for most projects above water line.

Posted:
Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:53 am
by eaglesdare
i think it depends on what materials you are building with.
our foamie td's use both gg and tb2. each has it place. gg we use for foam to wood, and foam to foam. tb2 we use on foam to canvas.

Posted:
Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:33 am
by GPW
The ultimate test of any glue for us is making a laminated Longbow with it ... basically a wooden spring , subject to much bending stress.... We’ve made Many longbows with T2 , all worked fine ... the ones we tried with Gorilla Glue all failed early ... that tells the story ... The T3 we tried worked fine and seemed to have a higher “grabâ€

Posted:
Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:48 am
by madjack
T2/3 is generally superior in any wood to wood application...if gluing to a finished surface, a poly glue like GG is better and even better than GG in those applications is a poly based construction adhesive such as PL Premium...especially if you have a gap to fill...a thickened epoxy is a great all round adhesive(if no plastics involved) but is a bit messy with fairly short work time.........
madjack


Posted:
Fri Oct 21, 2011 8:10 am
by stu_stumble
Thanks everyone for you replies. I appreciate the help with this. I know how to weld about any type of metal just never really worked with wood all that much except for building a ice hut for ice fishing here in Nebraska. But hat was just some plywood and screws and tarp thrown together. Thanks for all the info. Much appreciated.

Posted:
Fri Oct 21, 2011 9:14 am
by Jim.M
probably not an issue where most live, but in the hot southwest, the working time for TB III was way too short. Gorilla glue has a much longer working time, which is good for me as I am a slow worker.
I was doing my tests in 90+, as cool as it was getting at the time (late late evening).

Posted:
Fri Oct 21, 2011 9:38 am
by rbeemer
Here is my thoughts and how I am going to do my trailer:
Use TBIII for all cabnetry and inside work, I will also use screws and dowels and clamps where applicable.
Use PL Premium for attaching the outer skins.
Which ever glue you use please remember to seal the edges of all plywoood and end-grain of all solid lumber that are used in building the shell of your trailer.

Posted:
Fri Oct 21, 2011 8:31 pm
by S. Heisley
Jim.M wrote:probably not an issue where most live, but in the hot southwest, the working time for TB III was way too short. Gorilla glue has a much longer working time, which is good for me as I am a slow worker.
I was doing my tests in 90+, as cool as it was getting at the time (late late evening).
When it is hot where you are working, wipe down the wood areas that are to be glued with a damp cloth before you apply the TBIII. This creates a longer working time without hurting the final adhesion properties of the glue.

Posted:
Sun Nov 06, 2011 11:04 pm
by afreegreek
polyurethane glue is expensive.. for general structural use it's a waste of money.. where it is worth the extra cost is in cabinetry.. the cured glue line is much harder and more resistant to creep.. where you will notice this the most is a panel made up of several pieces with a glossy finish.. PVA glues tend to telegraph through the finish.. nothing structurally wrong with that but it's a visual thing you might not like so much..