What about 4x8 house siding

[rollintent]

I am not sure what the common name for this material is and I see it in different finishes on the sides of houses but I am a little surprised that I have rarely seen it used or discussed on the forums.

I saw a little red barn that one of the members built and looked like they may have used the stuff I am thinking about. You guys may have ruled this stuff out years ago but looks like it could be a cheaper alternative to aluminum. Not near as pretty but it lasts on the exterior of houses for years if maintained. I am just starting to kick around the idea of a non-tear trailer with this stuff for skin. Any thoughts or words of wisdom?

[Tabazooron]

It's heavy and if weight's no problem....

[rollintent]

Right, the weight could be an issue. I was thinking a 1" x frame with the siding attached to that. But as far as durability I would think it should hold up excellently.

[mikeschn]

You're thinking of T-111.

Mike...

[Zboom]

I agree w mike it does sound like t-111. Here in the southwest I see this stuff deteriorate pretty quickly if not kept up. Also as previosly mentioned t-111 is very heavy

[Miriam C.]

Your talking about Bob Henry and the stuff seems to be standingup

[chartle]

Isn't T-111 just exterior grade plywood?

So no different than using any other exterior grade plywood just with out the grooves than pretend to make it look like vertical shiplap siding.

[hoytedow]

T-111 is exterior plywood that's been gussied up for appearance. It is nearly as heavy as the 1/2" plywood it used to be.
1/4 or 3/8 ply is just as good and up to 50% lighter.
Copper napthenate under primer will protect it from rot.

http://www.blpmobilepaint.com/pds/p74-1.pdf

[angib]

We don't have T1-11 in Britain, so I had to look it up. Is it really just regular plywood with slots milled into it? So the slots reduce the strength in one direction and create lots of exposed end grain? And this is a good idea?

[Moho]

T1-11 is basically exterior grade plywood with grooves cut into it for a cost effective solution for a decorative exterior finish. It's not meant to be structural in any way.

The key to using it and making it last is using a oil based primer to effectively seal the wood from the elements and keep the tannin in. If not primed and painted properly it delaminates very easily.

I could see it being used on a teardrop, but personally I would use it only as a skin for a "sandwich" construction wall. The downside would be having to maintain it by keeping it sealed from the elements with new coats of paint etc.

[rollintent]

yeah, I was thinking a sandwich wall construction which would be for the most part like a house would be constructed (just thinner walls). I think I am thinking of something a little different than T-111 but that's not the point really I was mostly wondering what would really might be the difference between the siding and any other painted, exterior grade plywood.

I built a box for my dog to ride in in the back of my pickup several years ago. Over 5 year ago now that I think about it. Before I knew anything about teardrop trailers and such. I used 1/4" underlayment (luan I suppose) with alluminum angle pop riveted to the corners to hold it all together. I primed and panted the wood with some cheap exterior paint that my dad had left over from something. The side walls have held up unbelievalbly well. I suspect that since they are vertical the water tends to run off before it can do much damage. The box really hasn't been protected from the elements. It sits in the back of my pickup year round not under a roof. The top has some cracks in the paint and the edges are just starting to come apart on the roof. The top also overhangs the sides so rain doesn't really get to the top edges of the side panels.

So for what all that's worth I would tend to think I may be able to get quite a bit of life out of properly painted exterior grade plywood or siding with a lot of attention given to the preparation and application of a good paint. If I thought I could skin the roof with EPDM or aluminum (which ever would be cheapest) and paint the sidewalls and get 15 years out of it parked outside year round I would go that route.

Does that seem reasonable to hope for? After all I don't want it to last too long because I will probably get some more ideas for another build at some point and I may need an excuse!

[48Rob]

So for what all that's worth I would tend to think I may be able to get quite a bit of life out of properly painted exterior grade plywood or siding with a lot of attention given to the preparation and application of a good paint. If I thought I could skin the roof with EPDM or aluminum (which ever would be cheapest) and paint the sidewalls and get 15 years out of it parked outside year round I would go that route.

Does that seem reasonable to hope for? After all I don't want it to last too long because I will probably get some more ideas for another build at some point and I may need an excuse!

Without,

It sounds like you're on the right track!

Your experience with using luan for the dog crate and doing a basic slap it together and throwing a little paint on it shows why most exterior projects start to leak and fail.

Pretty much any exterior plywood product, or for that matter an interior plywood product can be used for a trailer, the key is in understanding that the wood must be 100% sealed/protected from the elements.

Once you understand the importance of that theory, it is much easier to seal/protect the wood in a more logical order than the build a box, then try to seal it approach.

Skinning the roof, and or walls will work just as well, with a bit less maintenance, but again, in order to prevent leaks, you must first understand what causes them, and plan your build accordingly.

15 years is not unreasonable to expect from a correctly built and sealed trailer, however, it is important to note that an annual inspection of the exterior of the trailer is required if kept indoors, and semi annually if left out in the elements.
Because you just built it, or bought it, and much attention was paid to sealing it correctly, doesn't mean you can just forget it for years at a time.

Rob

[bobhenry]

Whoa Whoa Whoa !

Time for a few facts
pounds per sq ft
T-111 ~~~~ PLY ~~~~ OSB
1.1 ~~~~ 1.12 ~~~~ 1.31 3/8
1.8 ~~~~ 1.87 ~~~~ 2.21 5/8

Fancy oak and maple veneered plywoods are even slightly heavier than standard plywood.

I have a little out building built 14 years ago it recieved 1 spray of flood cwf deck sealer at the time it was finished. Thats it !!!!



It has greyed with age as it should. There is no other problem!

No delamination or other surface anomalies.

I have built close to 170 custom mini barns in the last 20 years the majority of them were T-111 sheathed. I will agree it is not structural but neither is any flat sheet goods They all require some bones.



The barn is soon to start its 3rd season. It sets out 24-7 / 365 in rains sleet snow and boiling sun. The siding was sealed and 2 coats of tractor enamel was applied. It has recieved a partial hit and miss touch up coat early this spring and looks as good today as the day after it was originally painted. My future caboose build will recieve the exact same product. It has held up 14 years on my little , basically ignored , out building so I feel confident in its track record.

[rollintent]

Bob, You said you sealed the exterior and then put two coats of tractor enamel on it. I am curious what you sealed it with.

I assume you chose some products that were for sure compatible. I read some other posts where some of the guys were talking about Valspar paint over wood. I need to do some more reasearch on what all Valspar produces. I have used their oil base paint on metal gates and so far it "seems" superior to Rust-Oleum for that application or I like it better anyways. I think I will do some testing of their products on wood and see what happens and maybe by the time I have my budget ready to start a build I will discover any faults that it may have when used on wood.

I have changed my mind so many times already about the style and materials and they all have their plusses and minuses of cost, diffuculty to asemble and practicality. I now believe there is no perfect design just a lot of designs and finishes that meet a lot of different needs and objectives. I think my biggest considerations are going to be cost and durability/practicality.

[bobhenry]

I simply loaded a deck sealer in a pump up sprayer and sprayed away. I can't even tell you the brand. I let it dry a day or two and slapped on the paint. No interfacial adhesion problems ! It is a rather inexpensive way to decorate and protect and we can always change the color as the mood strikes.