Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am presently cutting out the sides and am using a cheap $39.00 Craftsman sabre saw/jigsaw and the saw will fiollow the line (on top) but beneath on the other side, the blade either goes in or outward. End result is that it's not a square cut. Is it me, wrong blade, or cheap saw that's causing the trouble? Blade is like a politician - it waffles!

I can't tell you if you are doing it wrong, but I can tell you how I did it and it didn't "waffle" for me.

Cheapest Makita jig saw - probably not that much different that yours. I also sandwiched my aluminum sides between my two sheets of 3/8" plywood. I made sure to use several clamps so there was no possibility of shifting under the vibration. Because I also cut the aluminum, I used a metal cutting blade. Not sure if I had to since the aluminum was thin(.032") and sandwiched tightly. and I cut sloooooooowly, letting the saw do the work. In cutting out the profiles and the doors, I used 3 regular new metal cutting blades.

Well, I used many clamps but after your post, maybe it is me. I think I "push" the saw and that ends up stressing the blade causing it to waffle. (I think). You think using a larger blade will be of any benefit?

I think you are pushing the saw too hard, slow does it, try a finer or course tooth too, use high speed blade, highest speed on saw and do not force it, especially on the curved. If all else fails, cut it out and belt sand the edges square.

Use what ever blade that you think will do the job. I did mine just like exminnesotaboy did, except I used just a common wood cutting blade (I don't remember the number of teeth). Anyway, my point is that you need to use a new and sharp blade, and as stated above, let the saw do the work. I made the same mistake with my doors. They were all stacked up when I cut them down by 1/4" , but when I got them all finsished and tried them in the openings, 1 fit and the othe did not. I had been trying to use an old blade and was pushing too hard on the sabre saw.

Sharp blade and let the saw do the work!

Kerry

I have a really cheap jigsaw and I had the same thing happen to me. I slowed my cut way down and I would stop every now and then and make sure the blade was still straight. That seemed to help.
Bruce

Thanks for all your help. I'll practice on some scrap wood tomorrow AM and I'm sure it'll go OK.

Yep, more then likely you are pushing too hard, trying to get the cut done too fast.

Slow down, remember, the saw is supposed to do the work, not your arm. Take your time, let the saw make the cut, while you just guide it along.
I worked for years with a "cheap black & decker saw" In fact I only just about 2 months ago retired it because the switch was shot, and bought an orbital saw.

An old guy I knew showed me once how he could split a pencil line with a black and decker jig saw, he had lots of experience. So, I think the ability to cut straight, besides using a sharp blade and letting the saw do the work comes from practice. But if you want to cheat a little and need all the help you can get, (like me) try using a blade 1/2" wide. I ran out of jig saw blades the other day and ground down the attaching end of a sabersaw blade, you know, it really made a nice straight cut, with smooth curves. Anyway, it worked for me.

Steve in St Augustine

I've got a Porter Cable jig saw...what I did was slow it way down and not crowd it...let the saw do the work and it is a lot less likely to follow the path of least resistance...ie...hit a hard spot in the ply and it wants to wander on high speed...won't do it slowly...slower speeds while cutting with a jig also allows the blade to cycle more vertically so you don't end up with an angled cut....get good blades don't try to cheat on that one...slower speeds also allow the blade to run cooler...If you turn it blue, you've overheated it and your cut won't be worth a darn....Also lots more control with slower speeds...If you don't have a variable speed jig saw....get a good blade and don't crowd it...let the blade do the work, not your arm....I also look at least an inch ahead of the blade...where I want to go, not where I am...this comes from experience...kinda like seeing the forest instead of the tree.....Doug

John,

All of the above is good advice. It is obvious you are forcing the blade to cut the wood. Let the blade do it's work and you just keep the saw running behind it. Make sure the base of the saw is square to the blade and that you are pressing down and not sideways. Even the least expensive saw will produce an acceptable cut if not forced.

Slow down and stay on the outside of your line and sand down to final outline with a belt sander or sanding block. Once th wood is gone you can't put it back on. As long as both sides are the same you won't have a problem with roof sheeting wanting ti go off in the direction of the smaller side.

Good advice from everyone! Lost about 6 inches but it's smooth and neat. I remember an old timer when I was a kid told me to let the hand saw do the work don't force it. This also applies to jig saws too. Thanks again!

I had similar wondering results on the bottom while following the line on top. After reading the above I guess I was pushing too hard, but I solved the problem useing my router to square the edges. I was lucky in that my cut on the bottom was always to the outside or the desired cut.

just my .02 cent solution to my impatience.


john

I've been a carpenter for thirty years and I have a top of the line Bosch jigsaw. I used my skill saw (circular saw).
A sharp thin curf framing blade will cut a fairly tight curve if you set the blade to just go through the wood you are cutting and the thinner the wood the tighter you can cut. It's the straight lines that are the hardest to cut. I actually cut a pattern with my circular saw in 1/8", fined tuned it with a sander and then used that as a pattern and cut all of my peices with a router. Bob